In the picture--your corners/edges look lighter. I always use at least two coats of paint for cutting in edges. Depending on what you are covering--you may need a primer even before that. I also always do at least two coats of paint on the walls, no matter what the manufacturer claims about one-coat coverage. The second coat makes all the difference in getting the full color desired. Also, you could roll a bit closer to the edge--after some practice you should be able to narrow that edge strip down. Not a pro--just a DIY, so take the advice for what its worth :)

Yes, you need a second coat. There is a difference in applying paint with a brush and with a roller. The second coat will blend everts together.

Yep, second coat, it will be beautiful :)

Yes, second coat needed. Also, you need to keep a 'wet edge' which can be difficult given that modern paints dry so fast.

To keep a wet edge you can't cut in all the corners and then roll because the cut in paint will be dry. You have to keep cutting & rolling, cutting & rolling. I manage to do this by myself but it would a lot easier with two people, one cutting and the other rolling.

It looks like it might just need a second coat, but did you shake the can before starting?

Umm, this is actually after the second coat :/

Sorry I forgot to mention that!

What color were the walls originally — were they darker? Did you prime? If so, with what?

Sometimes an extra coat is needed, for a variety of reasons. What did you use for paint? What color did you cover? Did you prime first?

If the old color is completely covered, then what you cut in with and what you rolled with are two different colors. This can happen if paint isn’t shaken/stirred enough or when you bought 2 gallons and one was not tinted properly and you then cut in with one can and rolled with the other.

Besides the already mentioned, you may have paint-starved the roller.

Flat paint covers better than paints that have sheen, with gloss and semi-gloss being the worst in terms of coverage.

If you didn’t prime, it will take 3 coats over a significantly different color. Especially with some paints that have poor quality hiding characteristics.

I actually did prime this particular wall. So I have seen this issue on both type of walls - primed and non primed.

I have been using Super paint by sherwin williams in satin finish.

Which room is this? Is there a reason why you are wanting a sheen on the walls. Unless its a bathroom or a kitchen, eggshell might have been a better choice.

I think the corners are standing out because this is where all the sheetrock seams are and when the joint compound was sanded smooth it caused the wall texture to be slightly different in these areas. This is not typically a problem with matte paints, but using a satin or glossy paint will cause the light to be reflected differently off smoother areas and cause the appearance of lightness. I suspect you won't be able to make this go away unless you switch to a paint with a duller finish regardless of how many coats you apply.

I'm not a pro painter, but I've painted my own homes for years. I always do three coats of paint in the corners, also near ceiling and baseboards. I always brush paint thinner than it goes on with the roller, which is why I need that third coat.

You don't need to re-roll your walls, just do another coat of cut-in.

It kinda looks like hatbanding to me.

What SW color is it?

Have to keep edges cut in wet then roll on paint. Keeping consistent amount of paint on roller. So only cut in as you go. I never use satin finish on walls. Only matte or flat finish!!

I do just the opposite. I go around the room completely cutting in, then let it dry, then roll.

Primer doesn't really help with coverage any better than another coat of paint.

I've had this problem before. I've also had a professional painter have the same problem. He had to repaint until I said it was okay.

Two things are happening. One is the cut in paint is drying before the rolled paint. You can't do one and come back to do the other later. Second, you are using two different methods to spread the paint and the light will hit them differently. The way I deal with this is to paint the cut in first, then roll as close to the joint as is possible without touching the second surface with the roller. This make the rolled surface the bulk of the surface.

The pictures make it look like you have a bleed through issue, too. That means another coat. Git that roller as close to edge as possible.

With the modern paint formulations, there is no way one person painting can maintain a wet edge to roll back in to.

My guess is the color. Many colors of white do not hide well vs. other colors where you can get away with cutting in with a brush and then rolling the wall to fill in.

A third, rolled coat getting as close to the edge as possible could even everything out.

I am using Sherwin williams pure white color. Sherwin williams super paint comes in flat, satin, velvet and semi gloss. Which finish would you recommend to use?

Ismeet-

I'd use flat/matte. It should not only help with the problem in the corners, it will reduce the noticeability of any minor flaws elsewhere with the wall surface.

While flat will reduce the visibility of flaws in the drywall, I prefer to use the satin on walls due to the ability to wash it. Plus, it has a richer look that reflects the light. Everyone has a personal preference. Builders like flat because it's cheaper to put up and can be touched up later.

Sherwin williams pure white color.

Yeah, Pure White in Super Paint could easily be a 3 coat color.

Many colors of white from many different brands do not hide well. Farrow & Ball whites, for example, several are notorious for requiring 3 coats.

That's not to say some people can't get the right hide with 2 coats.

As with everything color, multiple factors play in to individual results.

I would try a third coat on the wall with that gets hit with the best light and see if you're happy.

If not, then I would go back to the store for a consultation and get their input.

As far as finish, I don't like anything shiny and never spec anything but top tier grades in matte, velvet, etc. for walls.

Depending on the brand it's either satin or semi on trim and doors. Because gloss levels are not consistent brand to brand.

Well, now that we know the color, that could certainly be the problem, especially if you are painting over something dark. Pure White probably means what it says, which means there are no colorants added to help with coverage. This is why I always use Extra White. Even with that though, painting white over a dark color is almost never going to cover in two coats.

Well, if that’s two coats you need one or two more coats. It happens, especially if you are painting over a dark color with white. It’s more work and more paint but you will get there. Good luck with your project :)

I know this is a old post, but i am having the same trouble with the powder room. I used BIN primer no tint in it twice, then I painted with Behr Marquee bright white. I cut the edges first then right after I rolled the paint as close as I could to the edges and it looks like i didnt paint the edges.

When you use a brush it will frequently go on thinner than with a brush. It is also a different texture so it will reflect light differently. But sometimes just going back with the brush after the rolled is dry and cutting in again will help. Did they tint the base or is this the off the shelf color? As noted above a little bit of tint helps with coverage.