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whaas_5a

Best sump pump for water softener discharge

6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

My understanding is that most sump pumps are not recommended for water softener discharge. In fact some state the warranty is void if you do so.


Originally I was going to get a Wayne battery back up but the message in the installation instruction was very deliberate about not using the pump for anything but clear water and the warranty will be void.


However I have no choice but discharge to the sump crock.

I plan to put two pumps in the crock in case one fails.

Are there any brands / types that allow for this type of application?


Otherwise are there components you should identify as using certain materials or even switch types like a float versus a tether?


I’m wondering if a plastic elevated sewage pump with a tether is the best way to go

Comments (12)

  • 6 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback.


    Is there a 1/3 HP model that has these types of components?


    It seems like all the highly rated pumps are cast iron.

    Not sure I want to use Superior pumps or not.


    Wayne pumps basically states DO NOT use their pumps in this applicaiton.

    I even emailed them and they said pound sand use another manufacturer as their pumps will corrode, leak oil and fail.

  • 6 years ago

    On second thought, the softener discharge is pressurized water, meaning it can be run overhead if needed. If you have access to a sump pump, that means you should have access to an overhead drain line. Why not avoid the hassle of damaging/corroding a sump pump altogether and just install a tee into a drain line, then a P-trap and discharge the softener directly into the sewer line? The one thing the plumbing codes will want is a 1" air gap between the softener discharge and the drain to absolutely prevent any chance that sewer effluent could get into a potable water system. When you install the P-trap, put as tall a standpipe on it as possible (a la a washing machine drain), then place the softener discharge 1" above facing down into the drain.

    whaas_5a thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    That is a plausible scenario but I’m trying to avoid sending all this excess water to my septic.


    The sump pump discharge is up and outs to a drain line that is buried on the ground and travels maybe 75 feet to a ditch


    I doubt this would work but right now - from the Softner valve it’s roughly a 6 foot run then a turn then a 8 foot run and then would have to go 5 feet up to Discharge to the line that goes outside.


    I know they can go up to 8 feet vertical but I don’t know if it can go 5 feet vertical after those two horizontal runs

  • 6 years ago

    Horizontal run is no big deal, IMO, would work with with a 100' horizontal run. Do it and forget the sump pump issue!

    whaas_5a thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    I should add, friction in piping is minimal (what the horizontal run amounts to) when compared to vertical rise; your horizontal run adds little to issue.

    whaas_5a thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    Thanks for the idea - gives me another idea to discuss my plumbing contact.


    I just recall having the conversation with the water softner guy about pumping it up and he said no for reasons xyz. Its also includes the iron curtain so not sure if they had something to do with it.


    Our well pump pressue is 50-60 PSI

  • 6 years ago

    Your water softener guy doesn't make sense. Softener at our church was plumbed by local water softener company and they plumbed it up overhead to a drain. Water pressure drops with increasing vertical height to the amount of 0.433 psi per foot of rise. Even if you had a 10' rise to discharge, that would only amount to a 4.33 psi drop. With 50 psi minimum as your water pressure, that's 50 - 4.33 = 46 psi to discharge, which is still more than adequate for a softener to function properly..

    whaas_5a thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    Looks like its the iron curtain could be part of the issue - although I'd be at just about 5'.

    Going to walk through this next week. I picked up a Liberty 253 with wide angle float to reduce cycling eitherway.


    Drain Lines: All filter system drain lines must be a minimum of 3/4" or equal to the size of the drain line connection at the control valve or larger. Avoid overhead drain lines when possible. If used, overhead drain lines are not to exceed a height of five feet above the control valve and should be no more than fifty feet in length.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    On mu experience, pumps with plastic and/or stainless steel components in contact with the water are the best, because they are durable and improve results of fillter

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Sorry, but your plan looks really difficult. As I understand, you need to install a whole house water system. I also decided to do it 1 year ago, but had nothing known about it. I have researched a lot of forums and stopped on water softeners San Diego. I can say that it is amazing. It is very easy to install and especially to use. You have not to add something, because it works ideal from the beginning. I think that it could be very good solution for you. You can try to write them in support, if you are interested.

  • 6 years ago

    Its not 100% "clear" but an effluent pump is your best bet. I ended up with a Liberty piggy back.


    I prefer piggy back as they don't cycle as much as the float type.