The sand and prep was wrong. The sanding was probably too rough and the floor did not get enough coverage. Liquid should be sitting on top, not penetrating.

Post some photos.

Application

• For professional Use only!
• BEFORE USING, READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL LABEL INSTRUCTIONS AND MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS.
• For technical advice call our LOBA-WAKOL Technical Service at 1-800.230.6456.
• Sand and prepare floors according to NWFA instructions.

Loba Invisible should have three coats. Knocking down the grain after the first coat is part of the job. There should be buffing between the second and final (3rd) coat.

The contractor should KNOW that water based polyurethanes RAISE THE GRAIN in wood. They do it MUCH MORE than oil based. Knocking down the grain is part and parcel of using water based products.

It sounds like your third coat is missing. If you PAID for 3 coats, your refinisher owes you another coat get a decent buffing in as well). If you did NOT PAY for three coats, you will want to add in another visit from the contractor and pay for the buffing and third coat.

As an aside, how long did you wait before you allowed yourself to move back in/use the floor?

Thinking of using Loba Invisible on old oak floors. What kind of sanding/buffing should occur between 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats? Orbital sander with x grit? Or a buffer machine?

They recommend 180 grit between coats. i prefer 220 or 240.

I labored what to use on my oak floors, I decided on the Loba 2K invisible.. I read , watched video's and then ordered. Took me 2 weeks to be very precise, I sanded via machine with 40, 80 and 100 grit. My floors were in decent shape to begin with, the water based finish had given it that amber look 15 years ago, I realy was tackling my kitchen and decided why not do the entire floor. I used a machine sander 40, 80, 100 grit before applying the first coat. I purchased the Loba roller and watched many video's, I applied cross grain in sections, then without applying any more liquid, went with the grain to blend. I awoke the next moring with white lines cross grain. I should have reached out then. But, NO, I used the 100 then 180 on a buffer -using the perforated pads suggested and then applied the second coat the same way. 24 hours later, same problem, I have lines cross grain, I am nauseous. An expensive product, time consuming. due diligence. I am rehabbing my home so I am not without skill. The sanded floor looked great. I will call tech support tomorrow to see if there is anything I can do. The only other additional detail - I used the whitener in the first batch only.

Photos please.

Invisible is KNOWN to tricky. A WHITE tinted poly???? Ouch. Your tricky just turned into super-duper -UBER tricky. Like...Send me to their 7 day refinishing course!!!

Using a tinted poly is one of the most difficult applications you will ever experience. I know pros who will NEVER attempt a white tint poly! Not after it cost the THOUSANDS $$$ the first 2times they tried it.

But I'm guessing...until you load some photos.

Tinted poly and any pigmented sealers are super difficult to apply. Very difficult to get a flawless job. You are pulling color throughout the coating process. Walls, corners and exit points are a challenge. Classes are demonstrated on a 4x8 panel with no walls. Instructors will coat right off the edge and a 8 foot run is easy. Try and translate it to a 12, 20, or 35 ft. run with obstacles. Your blood will boil.

I’ve used it on floors and other surfaces. I’ve never had any problems with streaks. I’ve always rolled on with the grain and made sure I roll evenly. Sometimes I use a dry roller to go over the application to make sure there is no pooling. I re-sand with 180 grit until I see a lightening in the wood. I do this with a random orbital sander with a vacuum. Then the second coat goes on. I never wipe anything with a damp lint free cloth as I’ve found this can make the product go off immediately. I use wire wool on some of the smaller objects I coat, like doors, after the final coat to bring out the whiteness of the product and create a fine surface. Using wire wool between coats will ruin everything as the product reacts with the fine metal residue left behind. We only put 2 coats on our floor. Initially there was pooling, but after a couple of years we’ve decided we’re gonna put on a third coat. It’s American red oak. We have dogs and live in a very rainy part of the world, and we are very happy with how the floor has stood up to the battering it gets.