Replacing spark module on Thermador pro range

6 years ago

I have a 4-burner Thermador PRSE304S professional range and the spark module finally gave in. I ordered a replacement but the new version only comes in 6-point (supposed to be a universal model for 4 to 6-burner units). The instructions and videos all say just to leave the two extra electrodes empty. However when I test it, the empty electrodes arc to the base of the stove that the module is resting on (see picture). This seems like a very bad thing to me. I will cap and isolate the empty electrodes to address this, but I'm concerned that none of the instructions mention this. Even on the instruction videos, they leave the electrodes bare and just cover up the unit before ever even testing it. I'm wondering how many people have rogue sparks inside their stoves without even knowing it. Anyone else run into this?

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Comments (5)

Jakvis
6 years ago
Normally the gap is big enough to prevent this from happening. You could shim the control about a 1/4 inch higher and solve the issue.
DavidR
6 years ago
Yep, standoffs would help. Or you could mount some kind of insulator between the open terminals and the chassis. If you can find it, a couple of layers of phenolic PC board material (not drilled or copper coated) from an electronics hobbyists' shop would do nicely. Or hacksaw a piece off the cover from the old unit. Drill and screw the insulator in place with sheet metal screws.
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margaret17
Original Author
6 years ago
Insulated the empty electrodes and it addressed that issue. However, with new spark module, the stove never stops sparking. At this point I'm assuming it's a defective module and ordering replacement.
DavidR
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Your call, but I would've done some troubleshooting before assuming the spark generator was defective. For instance, I would have disconnected all the line voltage connections to see if it continued overworking itself.

EDIT: I meant the control connections. Sorry.
margaret17
Original Author
6 years ago
Update: The module now works exactly as it should. Apparently the solution was ignoring the printed installation instructions, which were not completely correct, and connecting things based on the matching the old vs. new spark module labels. That'll teach me to read directions! Wire #1 on the input side of our old module actually mapped to location #2 on the input side of the new module, so everything was off-set by one (i.e. output wire #1 went to output slot #2, and so forth).