maybe hire a painter to prep and paint the yellowing trim, painting over caulk for a better transition.

This looks to me like caulk was being used a bit as water damaged wall repair next to a shower. The shower looks fiberglass and a bit worn or has old paint on it. Can you verify?

Maybe its more than caulk that you need which of course they should have explained. I dont think caulking an entire new bathroom would run $400 so what did the do?

Caulk is to fill small defects.

I've seen worse, but I've also seen better. Not sure what you mean by "tremble" the caulking. It could be redone, and it might look better, but it depends not just on the applier's skill, but also on what the caulking is trying to fix.

And by the way, Yelp reviews mean about as much as any others, which is to say they mean zip. Online reviews are long past their use-by date, which was some time around 2002. They went rancid when the people doing the work discovered they could get on the internet too.

@painsley the shower is worn out - yellowed .

@Joseph Corlett, LLC lol thank you

@Brian Gannon labor and removing old caulk for 2 people . I thouht it was the caulking that was the problem . It DOES look better with the second persons caulking however still not nice to see.

what do you suggest I do to improve it ?

@ eeclean Thank you !

The caulking could have been done a bit better, but I think the main problem is that it contrasts with the old walls. Ideally you caulk and then you paint....presuming they used paintable caulk -- as they should have -- not silicone. The first and third pictures are competent, but it's not clear why they left those gaps in the middle photo.

Caulking is extremely easy to do, and I recommend that you spend a few minutes watching YouTube videos on how it's done. Then buy yourself a $5 tube of latex painter's caulk and a $7 caulk gun, and fix the defects yourself. My daughter just bought her first home, and she was able to caulk competently after watching me for 30 seconds. Once you see that it's almost impossible to mess up, you'll never pay anyone to do this kind of work again.

I think you have three fairly quick and easy options to improve the look.

1) I don't know your decor but painting the bathroom a darker color would minimize the flaws.

2) You could purchase some peel and stick caulk and go right over the top of the existing caulk.

3) Purchase some blue tape and place along each side of the existing caulk leaving just enough space to create a sharp line when you are done. Using a tube of latex caulk, run a bead over the existing caulk with a bit going over the blue tape. When you have finished caulking carefully remove the tape leaving a straighter line.

These photos are of peel and stick caulk. The above I used on a very old fiberglass shower where I just couldn't get a clean looking line. Not perfect but way better than it was. Also, I think much of what is on your fiberglass shower could be remove with goof off. Use a q tip and stick to the dark areas. Try a spot where it won't show if it's a fail. Good Luck!

I have never liked or gotten good results using tape to leave straight lines: almost invariably one is left with ridges along the edges when the tape is peeled back, and you also have a thicker bead of caulking than needed. With very little practice it’s easy to lay down a neat line of latex caulk and tool it immediately with your index finger. And if you somehow mess it up. you can wipe it off with a wet paper towel and re-do it.

When I was about 13 I watched a grizzled old painter (well, he seemed ancient to me as a teenager) lay down a neat, smooth bead of caulking compound without tooling it. He said the secret was in the way he cut the tip off the tube. Also, he PUSHED the tube rather than pulling it, pushing the bead ahead of the nozzle.

I've been using caulking compound for about 45 years and I'm now about the same age that he was then. I've never been able to duplicate his technique, not for lack of trying.

DavidR-

I’ve tried both the pulling and pushing techniques, and for me the pulling one works best. When using the pushing technique, there is often a little excess that starts to build up on the nozzle that causes striations. The trick to the pulling technique is to lay down the caulk in a smooth, quick motion; and then to tool it immediately with your finger. The problem most people run into when they caulk for the first time is going slowly and carefully...which inevitably leads to lumpiness, irregularity, and too much caulk.

I used peel and stick once. It was terrible, and looked terrible after it was done. I removed it all, and caulked with a gun, like I always do. Its not difficult to get a decent looking caulk. The ones in the picture above, are not perfect, but, they are not horrible either. If it was all painted, instead of standing out a different white, it would be a whole lot less noticable. Shower wall, looks like it needs to be cleaned down with clorox spray cleaner in the yellow or green spray bottle.

Your standards are too high for what you’re asking. Both from where you’re starting, with a worn out shower, and for the fact that you’re not doing the standard repaint that’s needed to cover it. Paintable caulk isn’t a finished surface. It’s painted.

Learn to DIY. You’ll have more tolerance for the imperfect then. Schedule the bath renovation. Move on

No masking tape for caulk please. Takes forever and leaves a ridge.

Caulk, spray with Windex, spit on finger, tool the bead.

I think Joseph has done this before. What he said.