You could put in tile on the top. It will be slippery though.

You definitely need tile at the water line. This allows for a smooth surface to keep the water line clean. The plaster is not meant to be exposed constantly so it cannot be above the water level.

Between the top of the pool material and the patio material, an expansion joint must be in place to allow movement between the two structures. Especially in seasonal pools of freeze-thaw conditions.

The coping stone provides a defined "frame" if you will, between the patio and the pool. With an 1 1/2"-2" overhang, it provides a nice look on the interior of the pool. If the pool wall is a little "squirrely" at the back, the coping stone allows you to straighten out and hide any imperfections.

Since the pool is getting sandblasted to remove the paint, a bond coat should be applied prior to plastering.

The pricing you mentioned is in the ballpark for a renovation of a pool this age.

Also very important. Once the patio is removed, the pool must be brought up to the current National Electric Code standards particularly in regards to pool bonding.

We always address and usually upgrade the original piping to larger PVC and possibly add surface skimmers and returns as seen fit. The bottom drain, if equipped, must also be addressed to meet the current VGB standards for entrapment. Sometimes it's eliminated.

Thank you for the info! We are at a loss what to do. We understand the need to repair the pool correctly but there is no way that this project is within our budget. Unfortunately, we have begun getting quotes on demolition instead.

A demolition job is certainly less expensive.