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tfitz1006

Renovate a traditional bathroom

6 years ago

Hello, we would like to renovate our family bath but within certain parameters to save $$. We will keep the vanity and repaint it and replace the knobs. We also want to keep our tub. It's very comfortable and so we'd just get it reglazed. Our contractor says he can have the external controls galvanized to make them look better and take care of the rust. I'd love comments on how much of the walls to tile - they went a little crazy with the tile in here and I don't think we need to go quite so high. I was thinking of using gold/champagne fixtures (faucet, lights) and painting the walls maybe Hale Navy. We currently have a single medicine chest and I'll put in a larger, recessed chest and also maybe a wall-mount chest over the toilet for extra supplies. I wonder if since it's going to be mostly whites/grays, maybe I should do nickel or chrome? I'd like to stay true to our house age, which is 1935. I think I will get the Kohler Memoirs Stately Toilet. Love to hear some ideas. The first four pics are existing and the last two are inspiration pics from from The Carolina Inn (simple subway and a basketweave type floor) which I thought might be nice.







Comments (29)

  • 6 years ago

    The brown is going, yes. Thanks for the great ideas.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    I like the ideas you have. Do you have a tub/shower combo? If so, the brown tile should go and I'd replace it with inexpensive subway tile. It is budget friendly and goes with the age of you're home. I would tile all the way to the ceiling on that one wall going behind the toilet and stop. The only other wall that would need tile would be the one where the shower controls are. Put in a long niche for shampoos, etc, As Beth suggested, please check out the plumbing first. I love the vanity and top so I would just replace the faucet and change out the knobs. I love the Signature Hardware Mellwood faucet with the cross handles, $259 and period appropriate for your home. I'd go chrome as it is so easy to maintain. The Moen Kinglsey Shower faucets are also nice quality, reasonably priced and period appropriate. I like your choice of the Kohler Memoirs toilet, but I would do the Classic rather than the Stately. The Classic has rounder lines that coordinate better with your tub and vanity top. Home Depot still has some of the 1.6 flush available at just under $300. I love the basketweave floors but they won't be cheap if wanting real marble. Maybe that's where you splurge, or a nice carrara hex or simply a larger carrara 6 x 12 laid in a brick pattern to mimic the subway in the shower. It's a clean and classic look without too many grout lines and is more affordable even in real marble.

    tfitz1006 thanked Design Girl
  • 6 years ago

    Wow great info. It is a shower/tub and the only tub in the house so we need to keep it. Can’t wait to get rid of the brown.

  • 6 years ago

    We did this ourselves. Saved so much money

  • 6 years ago

    Here’s our latest project

    tfitz1006 thanked Karen Cassell
  • 6 years ago

    Interesting thought on the radiator, thank you. I was thinking about radiant floor heating but too pricey I think.


    Does anyone think the tub can be saved?

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    lets see the tub. look up links on how to DIY. if the paint is in good shape, it just might need a good cleaning.

    I'd still paint the outside of the tub w/a good semi gloss enamel (google that too and save money)

    and you can have the tub inside professional done, not just a glaze epoxy.

    tfitz1006 thanked Beth H. :
  • 6 years ago

    I did a historic bath Reno (see my profile).


    Yes let’s see the tub. Unless there is any deep putting, I can make some suggestions on how to deep clean and freshen it without causing it damage.

    tfitz1006 thanked kats737
  • 6 years ago

    Here’s the tub. Very comfy. One question: if we keep it and relocate the tub filler to the wall with the shower, is it ok if the drain is at the other end?




  • 6 years ago

    An additional thought: older homes may have lead or galvanized plumbing. Get that checked before re-doing tub, tile, etc. Also, if removing tile there may be surpriseson the other side of tile, like the need to replace water damaged walls behind it. Good luck with your project.

  • 6 years ago

    Valinta, you are so right. We've only lived in older homes so I sort of plan on a glitch (or two). Thank you.

  • 6 years ago

    You don't want to put the tub filler on the opposite end from the drain if you plan on using the tub as a tub for bathing. It wouldn't leave an end to lean against.

  • 6 years ago

    Catbuilder, so that means leaving the tub filler where it is, right? Can you buy new parts like that (that come from the floor?)

  • 6 years ago

    did you say you want to keep the current brown wall tile? It doesn't go w/the style you want. that tile reads 1960, not 1935.

    You are incorrect. That is matte tile that is definitely from the period and original to the house. So is the floor tile. Read up on it.

    I would not change that fabulous tile or the floor tile.

    Putting in white subway tile and that marble basketweave is not what was done in the 1930's so if you're trying to stay true to the house, that isn't it! What you have, is. Color was very big in the 1930s, not white and black. Here is an article explaining

    I would however change the vanity to something more appropriate to the era.

  • 6 years ago

    Interesting, thank you. The tile is in pretty rough shape, cracked in many places. I will confess I do not love the brown....and you are correct, I hear it is original. The vanity is a newer addition, maybe 15 years ago. What type of vanity would you recommend?

  • 6 years ago

    That tub is a keeper. It's worth saving. It's cast iron. Those are really warm tubs that keep the heat. I would have a tub refinisher work on it. We did one of these in my parents home, the whole family used it and it lasted in great shape for 15 years until we sold the home.

    You can fill the cracked tiles and refinish them at the same time as you do the tub. You won't see the grout lines because they will be covered with the refinishing material, too. That's only if you decide you want to keep it. Once you start pulling stuff out, you are going to see damage and wear and tear behind these walls. Prepare yourself for that. I'd try to keep that tub.

  • 6 years ago

    After reflection I have deleted my earlier comments. In all sincerity, just enjoy what you have. Trying to "marry" new piping with old piping is never easy...or cheap. When the plumbing fails (in 5 years...or 10...or 20 years) you will have to gut the bathroom, buy a new tub, and re-pipe. Until then, don't open that can of worms unless you have a hefty budget.

    tfitz1006 thanked chiflipper
  • 6 years ago

    IMO your tub is in great shape. There used to be a really good article on SFGate that explained how to deep clean a porcelain tub, but I can't find it anymore.


    This is what I did to my tub:

    • general purpose cleaner
    • went after tough spots with magic eraser
    • scrubbed it with a soft scrubby and moist paste of barkeeper's friend - in some spots i let it do a soak (cover with plastic wrap so it doesn't just dry out)
    • thorough rinse
    • apply a coat of Gel Gloss and buff with a soft cloth


    My tub isn't perfect, however, it is NOT pitting anywhere and is very sound. I love it's wavy curve off the edge and ripple down to the floor. I had initially planned to get it refinished but then I spent way too much on tile and had budget remorse. I figured if the tub deteriorates, it is totally possible to refinish it down the line (all you need to do is cut out the caulk around the edge so they can mask it off properly) But if you refinish and it wears poorly, you're stuck in the refinishing cycle.


    tfitz1006 thanked kats737
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Chiflipper are you the one who gave good information about the radiator?

  • 6 years ago

    Yes.

  • 6 years ago

    Would you mind re-sharing that info?

  • 6 years ago

    Radiator is taken out / "flushed" to remove interior mineral deposits / solvent-stripped in a tank or sand-blasted down to raw metal / then it can be chromed or painted using electrostatic method.

    tfitz1006 thanked chiflipper
  • 6 years ago

    Following. Curious as to what decisions are made. Wonder if refinishing tile would be cheaper than retiling and the way to go.
    Does anyone know how they waterproofed back in the 30's?

  • 6 years ago

    ljptwt7 - Previous to the 1950's all wall tile was installed in a mud bed. This method is still considered top-of-the line IF you have the budget.

    https://arenatileandstone.com/what-is-a-mud-job/

  • 6 years ago

    They used to do a mud bed. Those mud beds are far superior to anything you'd get nowadays.

  • 6 years ago

    Very interesting, I went to the link above. If I had an old house and thought it had a mud bed I think I would see how to change tile color ( paint or refinish?) after reading the horror stories on this site with poor tile jobs!

  • 6 years ago

    Hi everyone. Things are progressing here. I picked this floor tile, light, and faucet (going chrome with the faucet, towel bar, hooks). We will use the Daltile Restore Bright White subways in 4 x 12 on the walls. Two questions: Tile Bar, where I got the floor tile, recommends a white grout for the floor. My contractor is concerned that over time it may go yellow. He asks if I want to do a light grey, almost a bit silvery. What do you think? Other question, I'm going to paint the vanity. Can anyone recommend a paint, preferably Ben Moore, that would go well with the bright white tiles? Actually....one more question....anyone have thoughts on a wall color? Thank you!!




  • 6 years ago

    I don't think a white grout would go with the floor, it looks grey to me. Grey grout sounds good to me. Like the fixtures you picked out!

    tfitz1006 thanked ljptwt7