In my experience, palms can be tricky indoors. If you have a lot of trouble with them, you may want to try something a bit less finicky.

Thank you for the thoughtful response! The dracaena is indeed next to an AC unit, but being winter here, we do not use it at all right now. Should I still be concerned about the possibility of air being too dry given that our heat has been running & it does tend to get pretty dry here in the winter?

I was watering the majesty palm thoroughly once weekly, but it never seemed to dry out at all by the next watering (soil was still quite wet to the touch at the surface) and I was concerned about it sitting in soil that was too wet, which is why I switched to twice a week. I wondered maybe if it needed to be repotted in better draining soil, but it's still in the medium it came from the nursery in. I'll try to go back to more thorough once weekly waterings though as I do think it's probably too dry given the brown leaves, & definitely refer to Costa Farms' guide! I'm not actually using straight tap water - I've been recycling the water from my aquarium, which receives a treatment to remove chlorine, choramines, & heavy metals to make the water fish-safe. I figured this was a better way to repurpose aquarium water after water changes than just dumping it, and probably safer for the plants than straight tap water since chlorine is removed.

Right now I would say the pothos soil is damp, but not wet. I actually am a bit late in watering my plants this week (since I didn't do a water change on my aquarium, only added some fresh water to it), so I'm wondering if maybe it's getting a bit overwatered on a weekly basis? It's in reasonably well draining soil, but I have been watering it pretty heavily. It's also hard for me to tell how much water I'm adding since its in a hanging pot that's quite high up.

Thank you for all the thoughts & advice!!

While there can be other reasons for browning tips as well, the most common reason for a dracaena to develop dry, brown leaf tips is their sensitivity to fluoride in tap water (or from the perlite in the potting soil or the over-use of fertilizers). Try watering only with distilled water, reverse osmosis filtered water or rainwater.

btw, you never want to water on any sort of schedule. Once a week may be fine for some plants but far too frequently for others. Specific plant type, potting soil and size of pot will always be a big factor in frequency but generally, the recommendation is to water only when the plants need it. Using a thin wooden dowel or bamboo skewer inserted into the pot and then checked for dampness is one way to tell. If the skewer comes out dry, it's time to water. And you want to water thoroughly enough so that it runs freely out the drain holes in the base. This will properly hydrate the potting soil and flush out accumulations of salts that can damage the plant. Allow to drain well before replacing in position and do not let the pot sit in any water.

Just remove the OLD yellowing leaves of the pothos instead of waiting for them to fall off naturally. Other than that, it looks perfectly healthy. What is the green stem to the left of it though? If it is a pothos stem, I would cut it off as it adds nothing to the photo.

FWIW - leaving your water sit in a tub for any length of time actually concentrates the level of all dissolved solids in tapwater, including carbonates, chloramine, fluoride, and any other impurities in the water. Dissolved CO2 and oxygen does gas off, but that essentially does nothing other than cause a slight increase in pH. Dissolved solids don't 'evaporate'. As water containing dissolved solids evaporates, the dissolved solids are left behind, which is why the concentration of dissolved solids increases as water evaporates. Using as soon as it comes from the tap is usually the best choice.

Al

Pale yellow leaves mean the plant has been give too much water. Deep yellow is from the plant getting too dry. This was a good article: https://www.houseplant411.com/askjudy/why-why-does-a-pothos-plant-get-yellow-leaves

The info at that link is inaccurate on a factual basis and because it doesn't qualify the overly broad statements it makes. The list of reasons why plants present chlorotic foliage is very long and includes over-watering, under-watering, soil pH, nutritional deficiencies, nutritional toxicities, allelopathy, lack of light, a sudden change in temperature from high to low, soil compaction, ...... Also, the leaves of plants suffering from drought stress do not get greener because of that stress; if anything, they lose their green vibrancy. Among symptoms of under-watering are yellow-green (chlorotic) foliage, leaf scorch - particularly at tips and around the margins, wilting, premature shedding of foliage, stunted shoots/offshoots.

Al