See updated drawing with proposed location/flow

I think that's pretty simple and gives me an easy bypass

^^ what she said.

Ok, here are some tips:

1. Just do it in copper. When you are talking about lots of elbows, fittings, etc. it's generally easier and cheaper to do it in copper. I have no problem using PEX for branch runs, but this kind of thing, esp when you have copper there to start, can happen with copper (I learned this the hard way).

2. I'm not sure what's up with the "hammer arrester" leg there - but hammer arresters are generally more effective at the end of a line instead of the beginning. In addition, a simple leg like that can get waterlogged and not provide any air cushion.

3. You want to tee off of the water main after any main shutoff valves but before any filtering for your outside hose spigots.

4. You want to make carbon filtered but not soft water available for drinking (cold water in kitchen or dedicated drinking water faucet and fridge).

5. I like to do my 3 valve bypass with real ball valves instead of bypasses on the water softener.

The rest is straight forward.

Instead of trying to draw the diagram from the physical room layout perspective, just draw the components inline for how you want them connected. Then later on you can figure out how the layout fits the room.

For example -
- incoming line has an initial T that connects to (1) the outside spigots and to (2) input of big blue filter first? This seems logical.
- output of big blue connects to the input of the water softener. However, do you want to be able to bypass big blue? Then before big blue you have to add three valves that allow for the bypass. It would be the same design as a water softener bypass.
- Water softeners often come with a built-in bypass valve. but if you have hard water these valves can bind and be hard to shut off. Either trust the built-in bypass, or get another three valves to create an external bypass. This youtube video is one example of how to plumb a bypass using three ball valves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU3LAMSHko8

Bruce

Here is a schematic diagram. In this, the orange colored valves are a three valve bypass around the entire filter setup. You could do that individually instead.

You always want a shutoff for your hose bibs and you always need to be able to isolate your big blue so you can change the filters without draining down everything.

Thanks Jake. I get your layout. I think I'm more concerned about where to put things on the available wall space I have. I don't think it's wise to put things like a resin or carbon tank in front of the water meter, so kind of thinking about that first with the second thought of how plumb it in with what's there now. I think my "updated drawing" is pretty much what you drew except for hose bibs and drinking water. I can easily add in the hose bibs. I already have RO feeding fridge/ice maker.

Appreciate the guidance for copper.

You have a ton of space there. This is my setup in my home. Should have done it in copper though instead and saved a lot of time and some money - those brass fittings are stupid expensive. Once off the manifold PEX is fine.

The big blue is a carbon filter for the drinking water and the water softener is a $600 Fleck based unit from Amazon. Three valve bypass for the softener (red handles) is above the salt tank. Big blue has ball valves to isolate it when changing filters. Two shutoffs on the left (green handles) are outside hose bibs.

This is an older house. When I redo the bathrooms I'll have more home runs to the manifold.