If you want that much space, skip a rangetop and get the range. The logistics of supporting 2 rangetops side by side, plus the 2 electric and gas supplies needed, just doesn’t make antisense. Do a range, or skip the idea. Don’t underestimate the cost and logistics of a 72” hood overhead. This is a 40K choice, sitting in your kitchen.

Thanks live-oak. I don't want a Range. Even if I did, I still have the same dilemma. Trying to see if anyone else out there has put 2 side by side. I have already spoken directly with Bluestar about this. My understanding is that an all gas range needs either one much larger line or 2 gas lines anyway. So running 2 gas lines now seems like a good way to have them there should I choose a Range in 20 years when I remodel the kitchen at 60 years old.

60" ranges are really cool until your installer doubles the install price due to the 600 pound weight after unpacking.

Jeffrey-I am doing a Rangetop, not a Range. I'm either doing a 60inch RNB rangetop OR a 36 inch Platinum rangetop next to a 24 inch RNB all griddle. Trying to figure out if the gap would bother me.

I saw that but there will be plenty of 60" range readers looking at this. Related this is a pair of 30" wolf ranges (range tops are similar) side by side to this client could get the gas/induction mix wanted. Had me concerned until they were installed. The gap is minimal, they are adjusted very precisely. The main differences are the surface heights between gas vs induction and the gas has a small riser in the rear, hardly noticeable from a few feet away.

Your rangetop issues - 25 vs 22K... will you notice? Also consider a wider hood opening to reduce heat exposure to the upper cabinets near the edge. One gas line with a "T" to a pair of valves should do it if their located per spec.

2019 Fair Oaks Contemporary · More Info

ADD: It never hurts to call factory support.

How do you plan to handle the cabinetry support beneath? Do you understand the implications of a rangetop vs a cooktop vs a range for support? Better yet, does your KD and your cabinet maker understand the issues. The logistics of support and the inability to truly butt them together is the whole reason that people choose ranges, and not range tops. You can only T the line of the line into the home provides enough pressure and volume. If you are doing other gas appliances, such as a furnace, or tankless water heater, you may need a gigantic line, or dual services.

live-wire Great questions! I was in the process of starting paperwork for my build 2 weeks ago..so now just another holdup! I had most of my bids last May...but we ended up holding off until this Spring. So, posing this question now, while I have some quarantine time to kill!

At this point, I am either going with the 60inch RNB rangetop or the 2 separate rangetops. Either way, I want to make sure I have enough pressure (big enough line/etc) to leave flexibility. We will be on propane, so I am keeping gas usage to a minimum. We will have the propane rangetop(s), 1 gas oven/1 electric oven, living room fireplace, as well as run a line to the deck for pre-plumbed grill. We will be doing Geothermal all electric heating.

The local Coop will provide me a propane tank as well as calculate and install the lines.

In regards to the Rangetops themselves, Bluestar said that they will butt right up to each other. Either of the 2 options I go, I will be getting the requirements directly from Bluestar for Cabinet support. I intend to use Shiloh for my cabinets, so am confident that they can be built to spec.

Code requires one calculate btu capacity needed at each appliance. A single line to the range tops can be Tee'd to each valve but a licenced plumber should run the calcs for lines from house tap to each appliance. Tankless waterheaters are the big draws if you have and these rangetops have a large requirement also.

And your bids are stale. Normally people are shocked after they update year old bids but you may get lucky.

Jeffrey-Thanks. The propane company will do the calculations for me. I won't be using propane for my water heater. Yes, I am aware on my bids. I was in the middle of getting them all refreshed, when the world shut down. I'm expecting that labor/material costs will go down in the short term. Regardless, we will still build. Thankfully, we weren't planning to touch our investments to make this happen. I am also lucky enough to have plenty of equity in the 20 acres securing the loan, that we won't have any issues with appraisals. I expect many people will have to back out of planned builds as they were running their numbers to max DTI or max LTV.

On another note, did your client that you installed the 2 Wolf side-by-side ranges ever follow up later on if the small gaps bothered them or if they were pleased with their choice?

B Carey, what are you doing to the wall behind the rangetop? A 60" stainless steel backguard? Did you change the wall materials? I have a mess to fix, so I wondered what you were doing to the wall.

I have been told that my 36" Bluestar rangetop is not up to code, and I should have removed the wood wall studs and drywall, and should have installed metal wall studs and ???? in place of drywall. Or installed a stainless steel backguard with a 1" air gap between the drywall and the backguard.

Jeffrey and live_wire, I am curious what you think about the non-flammable wall that I now have to fix 6 years after installation of the Bluestar.

Peke-I haven't started building yet. But, I will likely be using cement board instead of drywall behind the rage instead of drywall. Curious who is making you change your wall 6 years later? Why is the town inspecting it now?

The quickest fix is usually installing the factory 6" tall backguard. The more common issue seen is scorching unprotected resin based engineered quartz.

No one is making me fix it, but evidently it is not to code. No inspectors or permits here. Heat degrades the wood and can build up heat in between wall studs.

The entire wall behind the rangetop was supposed to have no drywall AND metal wall studs. This house is old and I had never heard of metal wall studs. We didn't want stainless steel on the backsplash so we pulled it out 3" based on recommendations from contractors and Houzz. Three contractors discussed it...plumber, cabinet maker, and electrician. Because it is pulled out 3", we can't attach the backguard to the island trim. So now, it needs to have a 1" air gap between the stainless steel and the drywall.

Nothing was said about my double oven either. I hope it is up to code. It really gets hot.

I completely agree on getting a good thermostatic griddle. If functionality is more important than aesthetics then I'd go with a Wolf griddle and Bluestar burners. The Bluestar griddle does not heat as evenly across its surface and does not maintain temps as evenly over time. Far better than a burner top such as the Platinum but not as good as the much better Wolf.

With a smaller gas line you can run high pressure to your appliance and then put a regulator (and T or manifold if necessary) there.

Why is 25k important to you? What specific tasks will you need it for? Also, just out of curiosity, why not a range?

opaone-

The 24 inch thermostatic griddle is what is putting me in the RNB line. I had decided that the RNB double griddle was more important than the additional 3k on the burner. I was okay with that decision in December. About a month ago, I discovered the option of putting the 2 next to each other. I've been strongly considering it since. I still need to get back to the showroom (3 hours away) and possibly to a bigger showroom up to 8 hours away.

I much prefered the BlueStar to the Wolf, particularly the burners . Wolf also doesn't come in 60 inch for the rangetop or have a 24 inch rangetop griddle like I'm proposing.

I do like the idea of a large colored range. Ultimately, I decided against it. My reasons were based on liking the pots/pans drawers better, liking and having a great space for the double wall oven, and also not having a single $15,000 appliance to replace all at once when 1 oven or burner or whatever goes out in 15 years. I will probably end up getting a lower budget ($3500) double wall oven for now, although I really love Bluestar's wall ovens. I also will probably do 2 single wall ovens over a combo unit so that if one completely dies, I still have one. I take awhile to make decisions, so having something working allows me time to decide. Once I make my final decision, I get very locked into that decision and don't regret it like most women seem to.

Regarding why I need the 25K burner. I'm not sure I do. I have read that it is worth the upgrade from RNB to Platinum. I will have a great grill on the deck, and would usually do steaks there. Trying not to have any regrets with my 20 year $8K decision! Also, keep in mind, that I am still saving $100 with the 2 units versus what I was planning on the Platinum unit. I am only paying a premium above the RNB unit. I was hoping that I would have more comments for or against the 25K versus 22K from those who have used the 25K.

60" ranges ship at over 800 lbs....grand piano weight range. Double install costs.

I have already decided against the 60inch range in preference of the rangetop. However, I doubt the install costs would deter me if I was choosing a $15,000-20,000 range. I already have a piano to move to the new house!

For me the 25k would be nice to have (wok, better searing, better sauté) but not critical and like you the better griddle (and oven) on the RNB makes it a much better choice than the Platinum. I just wish that the RNB griddle was as even across its surface and over time as the Wolf griddle. 30k btu is sort of sufficient for a 24" (commercial would be 36k), the issue w/ the RNB is that the steel is too thin so doesn't have the mass to hold heat when food is applied and the burners s/b more even or IR.

In reality the 25k is only slightly better than 22k. Realistically I'd prefer 33k-35k so 25k is still rather anemic and for wok perhaps 75k-100k.

I just wish there was a way to have one 25-35k burner on our RNB... :-)

OTOH, I've plenty of room for improved cooking skills and knowledge so more Btu's isn't a huge deal.

I just wish there was a way to have one 25-35k burner on our RNB... :-)

Opaone-This is why I am thinking about doing the 2 units together! Because I could get the 25K that way. Sure, bigger would be better, but 25K is awesome for home use. I do think Wok cooking (Hubby and I like to do Hibachi style stay at home date nights) would be greatly benefited on the 25 versus the 22. I think my Husband would enjoy the 25K BTU greatly. I doubt I would use the charbroiler, but could see using the 12 inch cast iron griddle in addition to the 24 inch based on our cooking. It just seems that the 2 units together would be the best of both worlds. I am doubting that the seam between the 2 would even be noticeable after a month! The only thing I prefer on the 60 inch RNB rangetop is the 24 inch griddle separating 4 burners from the other 2 burners. Whereas my setup would have all 6 burners together.

Blue star will also quote custom configurations per website

Yes, I can easily see prices on their website. I have also already asked customer service if there was a possibility to put a 24inch integrated griddle in the 60inch Platinum for an upcharge. There is not. I also asked if they happen to be exploring making a 24 inch cast iron griddle. Of which they have explored, but the weight of it for storing/moving/bracing is too much so they will not be making it. I also directly asked BlueStar about the gap of putting the 2 units together and was told there wasn’t really a gap, it is a viable option, and that there may be some difference between the 2 fronts as far as heights...although I don’t think there is from what I’m seeing or else it is barely noticeable.

I am really leaning towards the 36 Platinum plus the 24 RNB. I’m sure I could live without the 25K burner, the charbroiled, and the additional 12 inch griddle. But the 22K burner is only 88% of the capability of the 25K. That’s 12% I would rather not loose!

Not to muddy the water but while you have the time for research -- Have you looked at the Fulgor Milano range tops? They are beautiful and quite seamless - but about the same price as BlueStar. And have you considered induction?

https://fulgor-milano.com/us/en

Sherilyn-I just pulled them up. They seem to be missing a lot of things that I have on my list. Thanks for the recommendation though!

B Carey, did you ever complete this build? If so, mind sharing a picture as im looking to do this exact setup.

Edward-We are still waiting for lumber to go down to not insane prices. Ultimately, I decided that I did not need the few extra BTUS that much...and prefer the look of the 4 burners on one side and 2 burners on the other side anyway. So I will be doing 1 60 inch unit.

Gotcha 👍, I'm sure it'll look great either way, a 60' is great working space. Thanks for responding 😀

Just wanted to add to this thread in case someone else comes across it for similar reasons to myself. I've been looking at doing two Bluestar ranges (not rangetops like the OP) side-by-side; a 24" and 36". This is because rather than having two 30" ovens, I'd prefer to have a smaller 24" oven and a larger 36" one.

I talked it over with our Abt rep who sells Bluestar - specifically about an RNB 24" all griddle range and a RNB 36" all burner one, and he doesn't see a problem. After seeing this thread though, I'm considering doing an RNB 24" all griddle next to a Platinum 36" all burner. I don't anticipate needing the extra BTUs of a 25k vs 22k burner, but I am interested in the PowR true European convection oven with faster preheat. (Our remodel setup is replacing a 48" dual fuel Wolf range). The plan is to cover the whole set-up with a 66" hood.

I'll update once the final decision/purchase has been made, and then hopefully again post install :).