With brick on the exterior, how do you see rainwater getting into the cavity and into the wall?

I do agree it's a poor job.

What do the installation instructions say? I think it’s no good, but you need to verify against mfr to have a leg to stand on with your builder. Personally, I’d find another builder.

This is what the instructions say:

'Ensure that fasteners are properly driven; over and/or under-driven fasteners may cause pulling around the fastener and damage to the building wrap material. '

'Repairing Tears and Holes Rips, tears, breaks and holes, etc. may occur during normal construction and should be repaired to maintain the continuity of DRYline® building wrap. Properly tape, flash and seal any holes, gaps, or cracks that are present around faucets, dryer vents, electrical outlets, etc. Tears smaller than 1" can be easily covered with DRYline® Seam/Repair Tape. Tears or holes larger than 1" may require cutting a piece of DRYline® building wrap to cover the hole with care taken to maintain a “shingle-lap” installation. '

According to these instructions, builder will have to tape pretty much the whole house :-)

@PFF I dont know, I have limited knowledge in this. Are you saying there will be some gap between the brick and housewrap and water directly wont get onto the housewrap?

It seems your builder is lazy, incompetent...pick your adjective. A guy who cuts corners on the stuff you can see, well, who knows what other half-assed installations are waiting to be discovered five, 10 years down the road when he’s off the hook.

This is a typical detail of a brick veneer wall, which I assume you are referring to. Are there any other houses where the brick has been started but not yet complete that you could look at?

How will rain get through 3+ inches of brick, across a gap and on to the sheathing?

I do agree the install is poor and tape should be applied as directed in the instructions.

The staples in your 7th picture are proper; the rest are driven too far. Tell Bubba to turn down the PSI on the air compressor.

"How will rain get through 3+ inches of brick, across a gap and on to the sheathing?"

It gets wet back there. That's why brick ties are galvanized. Page 12.

I would insist that all the holes be taped per the manufacturer's requirement. And make sure he uses the proper tape. You are right to be concerned about this.

Because of the over-driven staples, the housewrap will no longer function as an air/water barrier. That jeopardizes the homes energy efficiency and long-term integrity regarding structural rot and water issues. Figure it's the same as if you were building and didn't install any housewrap at all. Would you build a house that way nowadays? No!! Get the builder to fix it replace it.

Bingo Charles Ross Homes.

Thank you all for your helpful comments!

Sorry. Run from this house/construction. This is a National production builder 100% who doesn't care about reputation because they are too big to fail. No respectable builder would use this stuff on quality home construction. They would only use OSB or Plywood.

I wish OP would come back with the outcome. These open ended threads are often just a theoretical exercise without closure.

On the plus side, the water damage likely won't show for years!

There's a C$5m+ build behind us that exhibits even worse "detailing"--windows with neither flashing nor pans, stapled Tyvek loosely and frequently Tuck-taped by hand (no rollers used) and inadequately lapped.

What does it take nowadays to look at the manufacturer's instructions on-line and follow them??