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happykate_gw

Warping (ledging) hardwood flooring

6 years ago

So, this winter my 3-yr old kitchen hardwood floors have become uneven, easily noticeable. Also, the 12-yr old hardwood dining room flooring that adjoins it is also starting to warp. The local company that installed it says it's because, somehow, moisture has affected it. There's a tall crawlspace underneath, that, THIS SUMMER, I had professionally cleaned and treated to try to discourage mice. They put down new vapor barrier on the crawlspace floor, and tied up new insulation under the floor joists. The floors were fine to this point, and it seems that this crawlspace treatment is the only new variable. Am I missing other factors? Can anybody help me know where to start? I'm really lost, and very worried. Thanks, very much.

Comments (26)

  • 6 years ago

    Did you have insulation in the joists before the crawl space tidy up?

    Happykate thanked cat_ky
  • 6 years ago

    Do you run a dehumidifier in the crawl space?

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Moisture trap with the new work. You will need to run a dehumidifier or vent it.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Yes, there was insulation before; the same kind of pink batt is used now, tied up to keep it in the joints.

    No dehumidifier; there are multiple vents to the outside, so wouldn't I be dehumidifying the world? (like my dad used to say I was 'heating the whole outside' when I left the door open)

  • 6 years ago

    Moisture trap? Not sure I understand, but it is vented, in multiple spots.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Does the insulation have a vapor barrier on one side?

  • 6 years ago

    Well: I assume so. I can check tomorrow. That's really an interesting point.

  • 6 years ago

    Right you are, live_wire, and I still don't. There's a lot of information in that link!

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    The vapor barrier should be facing down. Or you will need to switch to spray foam to completely seal it.

  • 6 years ago

    Facing down? towards the ground? If there is one, it must be facing up, towards the house. What I saw when I was there was the pink insulation.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Yes and wrapped with plastic or covered with foam board and taped seams. It needs to be completely sealed

  • 6 years ago

    OK! no vapor barrier on the insulation tied under the floor joists. And, according to contract, it is 'new R-30 fiberglass batted insulation, secured with twine.'

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    You Need a vapor barrier. The batting will collect condensation and evaporate onto the floor above instead of drip down. You will need to seal it. Either plastic or foam board with taped seams and spray foam any gaps. Have to keep the batting dry.

  • 6 years ago

    oh golly. I'll certainly look at this right away. — so, I need to take out the new insulation and replace it with insulation that has a vapor barrier? I would have thought the professional crawl space people I hired would have known this? I'm not doubting you at all, but just trying to figure out what happened.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Remove the insulation and allow the floor to dry out. When you're ready to re-insulate. Have the underside of the subfloor crawl space spray foamed, so it is air tight.

  • 6 years ago

    The faster you get it down, the better off your floors will be. I suspected that was the problem,when I asked if you had insulation before. Apparently, you did, but, some was loose, and most likely it did have a vapor barrier on it. You need to leave the insulation off for a month or two. That floor needs to dry out completely. Get some air circulation in that crawl space as soon as you get the insulation down. Here, we are recommended not to put insulation, other than the spray foam type under our houses, because, there is a lot of humidity etc in this area.

  • 6 years ago

    OK, from quick reading it seems that maybe I should have told you that I'm Pacific northwest; it's seldom below freezing, and summers are dry. Humidity is pretty much unknown.

    What I'm reading says that for my climate " Fiberglass batts should be unfaced and installed so they make contact with the underside of the subfloor." Unfaced batts are what I have now. — however, the batts aren't in contact with the subfloor above. If you can accept the premise that this is OK for my climate, how important the contact issue?

    And, again, thank you very much for your help.

  • 6 years ago

    — also, the crawlspace walls are poured, not block.

  • 6 years ago

    Do you have plastic on the dirt in your crawlspace?

  • 6 years ago

    Black 6 ml vapor barrier.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    You need to prevent condensation on the batting. Replace the wet stuff with dry ones and install 6 mil plastic. Tape all seam and ends. Treat it like a finishing a wall in a basement. Prevent condensation and you won't have moisture issues.


    You can use insulation foam board, which would be easier. Just fasten it to the joist and tape the seams and spray foam the ends. Any condensation on the underside will drip down.

  • 6 years ago

    Well, it's dry down there; never had a moisture problem. A cardboard container that was left there for several years is pretty limp, but no sign of mold. The original problem was with mice, who apparently like it because it's dry. The professional crawlspace company I used would, I'm sure, been very happy to tell me of any moisture problems. — but, now my hardwood floors are wavey. The insulation I checked yesterday seemed dry, top and bottom, but it's not in direct contact with the subfloor. I guess I'm missing something?

  • 6 years ago

    Again, very sorry to be so dim.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    You have a pro telling you want to do, he does this for a living. The next step is up to you.......................................

  • 6 years ago

    Yours dont fit through the finished wall, so can get tiled around, and there is nothing on them, to actually hook a faucet spout too. Only the handles, which doesnt do you much good.