Check - carefully - the voltage to the drain motor when it is supposed to be running. Either the motor or a circuit fault. Or maybe the drain pump causing the motor to overload?

Ok I was going to try to check it soon, don't really know how. I don't understand how it worked sometimes and quit. Wondering if it's a faulty part and need to return it or if it something wrong somewhere else. I guess testing the voltage will tell me that.

The signal to drain may be from the control board only. Or there may be a physical switch telling it to do so. Would help if there is a circuit diagram. If it is getting the voltage but not draining, then you know it may be the motor. If no voltage when it is supposed to drain, something in the control board or PS. Is the motor and pump all one unit?

I don't know much about the washer or washer repair, just what I've read online. I'm going to attempt to disconnect and remove the pump and re-install it to see if that changes anything. If not I will attempt to check the voltage. Thanks for the info.

Check the lines going to the drain pump for continuity (i.e., no breaks)

You didn't cite the model number. I'm guessing IWL12 or IWL15 based on the 2004 date on your tech sheet photo and reference to a Creasables light?

There's probably a problem with the motor control board if the machine now won't properly turn on or you can't get into Diagnostic Mode. Or maybe the display board. Or both.

A bad pump (on machines without the fuse) is a common cause of board failure. You've already changed the pump and installed the fuse and the machine ran through multiple cycles after that point until it. Other components can also zap the board. The diverter valve is a suspect.

The diverter valve should read between 700 ohms and 2,500 ohms resistance depending on the temperature (if it's cool, or heated from operation). It can read OK when cool and go off-spec when energized, or be flaky even if it reads within spec all the time.

Did you have any trouble following the directions for installing the fuse kit? Are you sure you have the correct replacement pump? There's a different pump for model GWL10, different electrical characteristics, it won't work on other models.

Removing and reinstalling the pump is unlikely to have an effect. You can check if the wires to it are connected securely. The pump won't run if it's not getting power because of loose or broken wires (or if the fuse is blown) ... but that won't cause the machine to not turn on.

It's an IWL15, I got SM479595 with fuse kit. I was able to install the fuse correctly. First test run worked perfectly. Then it stopped on attempt with clothes. Ran diagnostic and ran pump with diagnostic mode, then it worked for 5 loads and stopped. Now I cannot get it to come on in the same test. The machine comes on and does everything else except drain.

You said above and in the PM that only Creasables is lit when turning it on (LCD blank and/or no backlight? nothing else can be selected?). Is it turning on properly now, other than the pump not running? Can Diagnostic Mode be accessed?

The creasables orange light is on when I attempt to run the pump in diagnostic mode. The first time I did this the pump came on and I thought it was fixed, I did 5 loads after that. This time the pump doesn't come on. The display and everything else works perfectly.

OK. That wasn't clear from your info. I took it to mean that the
machine had gone non-functional other than the Creasables light being
lit.

Check the connector plug on the pump. I don't have hands-on experience with the new pump design. If you have a volt meter you can check for 120v power at the pump connector when it's turned on in Diagnostics.
Or, check if the fuse is blown. It's a 250v 2.5amp slow-blow fuse. Don't replace it with anything else.

If the fuse is blown, and keeps blowing, then maybe the new pump is bad. Or there's a problem with the fuse kit install.

No leaking from the new pump? A bit of liquid dish detergent on the face of the pump seal lubricates it so the pump is easier to rotate in place.

The fuse kit can be tricky to install being that the pump wires are small to handle compared to the fuse holder wires. It splices into the brown pump wire at the connector in the console. A trick to insure a good connection is split the fuse ends into two equal halves of wire, wrap the pump wire with one half, then wrap the 2nd half around that.

Ok I will check all of that tomorrow. I am confident I did the fuse correctly. If it was that wouldn't it just not work from the start? First it worked, then it didn't, then it did 5 times and now it doesn't. I know you are the one that can help me. I've read the other posts. I will post the outcome, good or bad. Thank you.

Oh and no leaking.

Could be an intermittent connection. That's why you should check voltage to the motor.. The circuit diagram is too small as presented on the site for me to have a good look.

zneret, there's a pair of wires (brown and white) from the motor control board in the console down to the pump. The pump is a separate electric motor from the agitate/spin drive motor. I know these machines very well, have four of them among myself and family, plus a spare in my garage.

You can get a larger-size view of many photos in posts by clicking on it to view, then right-click on the overlay image and select "View Image" or select "Copy Image Location," then paste that link into your browser.

Update: I do have a blown fuse, I'm headed to the hardware store for a new one. I know which one to get and I will make sure I wire it back together properly.

If the fuse keeps blowing, something's drawing too much amps. Either the new pump motor is defective, being overloaded, or the fuse rating is too low by design (not I advise putting in a higher amperage fuse as this may cause a fire hazard).

First attempt at all of this, including splicing wires so when I get the fuses by mail I will make sure I do it perfectly this time (watched a video). I will update when the fuses arrive.

Nicki Tucker ... I assume you're aware that the fuse holder opens/unscrews to replace the fuse. The entire installation doesn't need to be redone unless it's suspect of a problem. The closed-end crimp connectors may be difficult to remove and cutting the holder out of the pump wire to install another will make the wire a bit shorter.

zneret ... the fuse is to protect the motor board from damage if the pump shorts-out, goes to off-spec electrical resistance, etc. The machine wasn't factory-equipped with a fuse there, F&P added it later as a retrofit add-on included with replacement pumps (it was also available separately).

AH, so the design of the DW was defective or at least deficient and the fuse was a fix?

It is the suspect, I probably didn't splice it correctly, but like I said I will make sure it is done correctly when the new fuse arrives. Something a bit of concern was when I pulled off the top it has an electrical burn smell. Maybe from attempting to force the pump on. Everything seems to be ok, I will find out when I replace the fuse and post the result.

You want a good, solid connection. Twisted with twist-on connectors, crimped with quick connects, and/or soldered, all while making sure it's insulated.

I finally got the fuses by mail. Ugghhh! Spliced it in correctly this time and voila! Working washer again! Thank goodness, tired of the laundromat. Thank you for your help.

Clear the siphon channel allude 'Thinking about your Washer' in your User Guide. Guarantee both the finish of the channel hose and the standpipe are beneath 1200mm in stature – any higher forestalls waste. Clear the channel hose.