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angie_mccraebarazas

Help potting my first meyer lemon tree

I plan on buying a 3-5 ft. Meyer lemon tree and planting it in a half whisky barrel. I have never grown a lemon (or citrus) tree but have always wanted one and now we have the space for it. (I am in Zone 5 and I will need to bring it inside for the winter.) I have did some research online on how to plant it and what to use. Some have recommended buying a pre-made citrus potting mix, but we don't have it readily available where I live. Others have said the pre-made mixes use manure and manure is not good to use with citrus because it compacts or it may have arsenic if they use chicken manure.


So, since I can't buy it anyway, I plan to make my own mix but cannot find a definitive "recipe" of what to use. I have read to use equal parts of peat, course sand and perlite or vermiculite, to use equal parts of potting soil, manure and perlite, to use bark instead of peat, to use 90% sand and equal parts of potting soil and perlite, to use crushed brick or clay, someone even used Turface (what they use for baseball diamonds). Some say to use organic, others say inorganic is best. It's all very confusing! I plan to drill holes in the bottom of the barrel for drainage and to put it on castors so it's not sitting directly on the deck. Should I put a layer of pea gravel on the bottom before putting the soil? I have read where gravel is not recommend although I do not know why. I would appreciate some guidance on what to use and any advise on potting lemon trees.

Comments (10)

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I was reading one of Al's post concerning a tree's deteriorating growth pattern when re-potted without root pruning. Stating that a tree would deteriorate from a 9 grade to 8 to 7 and so on. Maybe the century+ old container citrus trees in Tuscany have not heard of AL. One can read about these trees in Oscar Tintori's book. These container grown citrus trees are over 100 years old and have been re-potted and re-potted many times over the century without even being removed from their containers. The Tuscany re-potting system simply uses a sharp knife to remove an inch or two from the container's sides and then refilled with fresh growing medium. If what Al wrote was always true, these old trees would have been dead many many years ago, instead they are doing fine, and heading into the second century.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I've heard the same story from you at least a half dozen times. I'd like to hear from someone other than you exactly how the trees are treated because I've observed first hand how you have cherry-picked bits and pieces of information to confirm your biases. I'd also like to see some pictures of trees you have repotted - preferably when in the middle of the process.

    I can say with a great degree of certainty, having repotted dozens of trees large enough that it took 2 good men to even tip them out of their pots, the center of the root mass of large trees that have not recently been fully repotted forces sacrifice of a significant amount of any tree's potential in areas of growth, yield. and vitality ...... because that's what root congestion does - ask any nurseryman. When these large roots in the center and at the bottom of the root mass are removed to make room for the fine roots which do all the tree's heavy lifting, the change in vitality quickly becomes very conspicuous. Let me know when you've finished repotting your first thousand so we can have a meaningful conversation about what you think, instead of what you think someone else might think, as has habitually been the case in our past intercourse.

    Al

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Al, by "fully repotting" I assume you mean removing all soil mix, I.e., bare rooting. If so, I agree with your previous statement re center of the root mass of large trees that have not recently been fully repotted forces sacrifice of a significant amount of any tree's potential in areas of growth, yield. and vitality.."

    Please comment on the repotting method used for centuries for "repotting" citrus in the Luxembourg gardens, as well as other very old gardens, that have been grown in "Luxembourg" planters. "Repotting" is accomplished by opening one wall of the container, removing a layer of soil and replacing it with new soil. This is repeated with the other three walls. Here is a photo:

    https://www.eutouring.com/luxembourg_gardens_m15_DSC04996_lrg.jpg

    Also, Oscar Tintori uses a similar method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC1LmKHaiUw

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Al, it is quite simple, just read all about Italy's centenarian citrus trees in Oscar's book. It makes a great read. I'm sure I don't have to tell you about Oscar Tintori, as he is one of the wolds great container citrus growers. Never out of the original container in 100 plus years, and doing fine. In fact they have become a tourist attraction.

  • 6 years ago

    I appreciate the comments and will read the suggested links. In the meantime, is there any other thread you can suggest to post a couple questions that can be answered? Specifically, what is good to use to make a citrus soil mix and if it matters that you use gravel on the bottom on a container? Thank you.

  • 6 years ago

    Don't use gravel at the bottom. To keep cost's down I use natral (no- dye) pine bark mulch, Compost, and Perlite at a ratio of 3-2-1. My trees go on top of my house in the roof top garden where they get heat and wind. I have about 300 holes 1/4 inch Diameter through the bottom and lower 1/3 or its side. We cah discuss repotting in 3 years when its time to.

    Steve

  • 6 years ago

    I forgot above I started with a more porous mixture like 5-1-1 at the bottom of the pot and finished with about a 2-3-1 with the middle 75% at 3-2-1. My roots at a transplant after some root pruning

    Steve

  • 6 years ago

    Hi, Angie. You asked about a thread that discusses container media. I left a link upthread yesterday, with a couple of others I thought would be helpful.

    This will take you to the thread, which has been active since 2005.

    Al


  • 6 years ago

    Al and Steve, thank you so much. Your comments were very helpful and very much appreciated!

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