Software
Houzz Logo Print
brandon_christ

Tips for first time finishing hardwood floors?

6 years ago

I recently removed the carpet on my old house (built 1941) and the very old (40 years or so) carpet padding left stain all over the hardwood underneath. While the hardwood isn't in "great" shape it otherwise is satisfactory to me, other than the stains. I only plan on living in this house for about 5 more years and it is just a starter home with just me and my fiancee living in it, so the floors don't need to look perfect.


I was hoping I could just do a light screen to get the stains off, but the hardwood pros I spoke to said those stain always fully penetrate the finish and you have to sand down to bare wood and do a complete refinish. They want around $2000 to do it. Since I don't want to spend that on a house I won't be in much longer, I figured it would be good just to refinish myself. My goal isn't to make it look perfect (though I will try my best), but to simply make it look better than it is.


I already received some advice to use a random orbit sander instead of a drum sander. However, I am seeing conflicting information on which type of polyurethane would be easier for a first timer: water or oil. Any opinions?


Also I am seeing that it would better to go with natural wood instead of stain if you don't have experience with refinishing. Is that correct? And you have to use sealer before applying the poly if you don't stain?


Any other advice would be great.

Comments (11)

  • 6 years ago

    What happens if you make it worse and when you go to sell the potential buyers all want a discount because they need to replace the floors?

  • 6 years ago

    If it gets screwed up I'll probably just put another type of flooring on top of it.

  • 6 years ago

    Photos please.


    Consider this: a full sand and refinish "averages" $5/sf. That can include a medium/high end water based polyurethane (depending on your area).


    If you were quoted $2K for the work, I'm guessing you have 400sf. Considering the floors will be an ASSET (ie. house price could go UP because you exposed and finished the floors) the money is WELL spent.


    I bet if you price out new carpet + pad you will come up with $1200 - $1400 including install. And all you have done is replace like for like.


    Refinishing a hardwood floor can be one of the CHEAPEST forms of flooring you can 'purchase'.


    As for which way to go: water vs. oil based polyurethane? I like to offer question:


    Do you WANT a wood floor that is a strong orange? No? The oil is off the table.

    Do you WANT a floor that STINKS for 30+ days (to the point where you might have to stay in a hotel for a few weeks)? No? Then oil is off the table.


    Sealants are often used with water based polyurethanes...for many reasons. Too many to mention here.

  • 6 years ago

    Refinishing floors without having worked with pros to learn how is akin to cutting your hair with equal training. Don't do it.

  • 6 years ago

    Home Depot rental department has a 3 head orbital sander for floors that is pretty easy to use and nearly impossible to gouge the floor with. That is the one for DIY. Expect to spend your dollars on sandpaper for it, though. Be sure to start with the coarsest grit they have to quickly work off the finish layer. I also like it better than a drum sander because I think it takes off less of the floor.

  • 6 years ago

    I have done the orbital sander route. It's a lot of work, but it is foolproof. Can't hurt to rent one for a day and try it on your stained areas. If it doesn't work, you'll have to hire a pro. I'm living in a house that looks like the previous owner drum sanded the floors himself. Not pretty.

  • 6 years ago

    This can be the result of an inexperienced person using a drum sander. (Previous owner, not me.)

  • 6 years ago

    Here’s some photos. Also it’s roughly 470 sq. feet and 11 steps. Also I’d rather do water based, but I’ve read some say it’s harder to apply because it dries quickly. I also like a clearer finish rather than the tint you get from oil.





  • 6 years ago

    The $2K price for 470sf AND 11 stairs is a GOOD PRICE. The refinisher is right on track with the estimate.


    You are welcome to learn all the tricks of the trade for wood floor refinishing. Right now you probably have the time. Your research time investment should be a few hundred hours. That includes all the youtube videos you can stomach. You will also contact the manufacturers of the product you are interested.


    If you were to use Loba 2K Supra AT (10 minute working edge = decent for water based):


    1. 1 Gallon of WS EasyPrime = $100 = 450 - 500sf (you might need two gallons just to be sure)

    You will apply a single coat over the entire floor once the sanding has been completed

    2. 1 Gallon of Loba 2K Supra AT = $195 = 500sf for first coat. You WILL NEED two gallons to finish this floor.

    3. Microfibre rollers = $10/per head = 3 heads

    4. Painter's pole = $20


    Sanding equipment = 3-4 days of rentals (your floors need ++ work...there is PLENTY of wear through...the poor things needed love 10 years ago)

    Sanding pads = double digits worth of product. You will need 3 different grit levels (eg. 60, 80, 100).


    Moving all the furniture and then staying off the floor for 10 days = normal.


  • 6 years ago

    That's a good overview SJ. If one buy's tools of the trade and invest's a lot of time in research and youtubes,I wonder how their diy haircut would look.

  • 6 years ago

    "If it gets screwed up I'll probably just put another type of flooring on top of it."

    I'm doing much of the work of remodeling my condo but paid somebody to refinish the white oak floors. I'd recommend you do the same as solid wood floors are a great feature -- something you can't fix -- and their appearance will be important to potential buyers. Plus you'll have good-looking floors for the next five years. The products used were Bona Dri-Fast Natural Stain, Bona Classic Sealer, and Bona Mega Satin Finish.