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Deep soaking tubs' dimensions. Questions?

6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

I thought I had found the perfect deep soaking tub (American Standard Evolution), then I read a lot of poor reviews about American Standard's quality control issues. So I have a new list of possible soaking tubs. The only company I have heard of is Kohler.

Can anyone share their experiences with Signature Hardware, Jetta, and/or Maax?

Kohler Underscore K-20202-LA

60" x 32" x 20 1/4" exterior. Bottom interior 46 1/4" x 22" with 15 1/2" water depth. 105° backrest.

Kohler Underscore K-1957-LA (Above Floor Rough)

60" x 32" x 22 1/4" exterior. Bottom interior 46 1/4" x 22" with 15 1/2" water depth. 105° backrest.

Signature Hardware Sitka #948821

60" x 36" x 20.5" exterior. Bottom interior 45 1/8" x 28 7/8" with 15.75" water depth. 115° backrest.

Signature Hardware Sitka #948272

60" x 32" x 20 3/4" exterior. Bottom interior 44 7/8" x 22 1/4" with 15 3/4" water depth. 115° backrest.

Jetta Classic Loft J-109S

60" x 32" x 21" exterior. Bottom interior 42" x 20" with 18" water depth. 115 ° backrest.

Jetta Loft Advantage E-109S (economy version?)

60" x 32" x 21" exterior. Bottom interior 42" x 20" with 18" water depth. 115 ° backrest.

Maax Exhibit 6036 IFS AFR #106173

60" x 36" x 20" exterior. Bottom interior 46 3/8" x 21 3/4" with 17 1/2" water depth. 112° backrest.

The Jetta tubs are the deepest, but their interior bottom dimensions are the smallest. I could only find two tubs that were 36" wide.

Here is where I really need help from plumbers. I have no knowledge about drains. I understand the slot overflows are higher on the tub than the round overflows. Can anyone explain brass vs pvc, and explain cable drive and ball joint cables?

Overflow and drains

Kohler- Slot - deep overflow and drain 7271-Brass or 7272-PVC



Signature Hardware- Round - PVC cable drain and quick connect drop in kit. No picture of quick connect kit. I don't know if I need it.



Jetta - Round - Cable drive waste and over flow



OR Jetta ball joint cable drive waste and overflow.



Maax - Round - Cable operated waste and overflow. No picture.

Could the cable ever break? If so, the tile walls and tub would need to be removed to replace the cable, right?

Thanks for your help.

Comments (9)

  • 6 years ago

    Thanks, Formulaross20. Kohler and Toto are well known to us, but the Kohler tubs are not very deep, so I thought I would see about then other brands.


    Brass is not that much higher in price so we will use it. Am I right that two of the last three pictures have some of the pvc pipes missing? Only the Kohler mentioned brass.


    The Signature Hardware installation directions said a 6" x 12" hole needs to be cut into the concrete, but none of the other brands said anything about it. Does the concrete get cut out for all tubs, and they just didn't mention it?


  • 6 years ago

    The 6 x 12 hole is the assembly space for the drain P-trap assembly, you can assume that every floor-standing tub will require this. One sets the tub in place with the drain hardware in your pictures already attached to the tub. Then, from the open wall behind the tub, the plumber works through the wall in the 6 x 12 floor hole to install the P-trap and make the final drain connection. Then, the walls are drywalled and finished.

    Peke thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    American Standard shows a 6" x 13.5 cut out, but I have marked them off my list. I am leaning toward the Signature Hardware or Maax because they are 36" wide. Most 60" tubs are 30" or 32".


    I wondered how they would connect the plumbing. That makes sense that they would go through the wall. We are moving that wall back 15-18" to have room for a 60" tub. Would it make sense to keep some kind of access panel instead of drywalling all of the wall? The shower head wall backs up to a hall closet. I think it would be easy to build an access point from floor to shower head height.

    Thanks for the information.

  • 6 years ago

    Have you determined that your water heater is large enough to fill the tubs you are considering to a high enough level?

    Peke thanked kudzu9
  • 6 years ago

    I wouldn't do the access panel now, just drywall as normal. If and when access is needed, it's a minor task to open up the drywall to do a repair, and then install the access panel.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-14-in-Wall-Access-Panel-34056/202078065

    The panel doesn't have to be anything fancy, it could also be a piece of plywood (trimmed out?), or even drywall that's spackled and painted again. The store bought ones are just easier. One thing you could do now is frame the access area so there is plenty of room to work (bigger opening?). Kudzu's comment about the water heater is also something to consider. Since you have the walls opened up, take lots of pictures for future reference. We have over 1500 pics of our build. Something else we did was install 2x8 or 2x10 blocking between studs where you might want future handicap assist bars, towel bars, TP holders, etc. Measure dimensions from top, bottom, left and right, write them on the blocking with a sharpie marker and take pictures for future installation work.

    Peke thanked formulaross20
  • 6 years ago

    Kudzu9, thanks. Yes, we have two hot water tanks. Our last tub was a whirlpool and it was a lot larger. And we only had 1 hot water tank at that house.


    Formulaross20, thanks. I did not know those panels existed. I think I would need one on the top and one on the bottom. I had planned on using plywood for the access. Would the width between studs be enough room?


    We have planned the installations of grab bars, etc., but I was just going to write the dimensions on a Word doc. Your idea of writing on the studs makes more sense. That's a great idea. We have lots of pictures of our demo and the addition of upstairs bedrooms, the great room, laundry room, and kitchen.


    Thanks to both of you for the reminders. It is easy to forget things.

  • 6 years ago

    Peke- Great! Lots of people overlook this essential detail, so didn’t want you to be surprised. Looks like you did your homework. :-)

    Peke thanked kudzu9
  • 6 years ago

    Oh, I am sure there are lots of things I have not thought about. I just learned that "painting" means the same as "staining" to my contractor. We asked him to put everything on his bid except for painting. My husband loves to paint! Unfortunately, I am retired now, so I had to do it since I have more time. I assumed painting meant paint. My contractor ordered the new trim molding for the doors and the floors, and put them on his bid, but he did not put any staining or sanding on the bid. I assumed the contractor would stain the wood, and he assumed I would. So I spent last week researching how to sand and stain wood trim, and which products to use. I started sanding and staining today, and I am dreading staining the doors.


    I never seem to know enough about what needs done, so I don't know what is missing on his bill. I have to get the bathroom bids right so I am learning about the process of installing a tub and moving the plumbing. I am tired of things not being included on bids. My contractor gave me an estimate for installing the tub, but it is just a total amount. I told him I need a detailed bill, and that he is going to have to specify which products he will use, and what his process will be to waterproof for tiling.


    I am just thankful for Houzz and all the helpful people like you and FormulaRoss20.