Because you removed the browned out leaves, I am not exactly quite sure what was the problem. However, I am noticing some pink blooms that are browning so I am assuming that there was a watering problem.

Normally, the pink blooms should undergo a series of color changes that end in brown. But, if the blooms go directly from pink to brown, that suggests that the plant is not getting enough water and the plant is browning them early. Another sign of not enough water is when the leaves brown out too from the edges inwards.

You need to bump up the amount of water now that we are in the summer months. Water from 1.5 to 2 gallons per plant, early in the morning, when a finger inserted into the soil to a depth of 4" feels dry or almost dry. Never water the blooms or leaves. Instead water the soil. If using a sprinkler, try to run the station as close to sunrise as you can so the plant is not wet for too long. Water the soil from the crown, the area where all the stems reside, outwards. If you water and the soil does not get moist to a depth of 8" or so then tweak the amount of water and use more or less.

The amount of mulch in some pictures seems insufficient and may allow soil moisture to evaporate too easily. Hydrangea roots reside in the top 4" of the soil so maintain the plants with 2-4" year around up to or beyond the drip line.

If the problem is that the leaves had leaf spots, you need to try and water the soil in order to minimize fungal issues like leaf spot or powdery mildew. The worst leaves can be removed but remember that green leaves are still producing food for the roots so consider getting rid of the worst ones only. Leaves, blooms and other plant debris on the ground should be disposed in the trash when you have leaf spot or fungal issues.

This time of the year is appropriate for rechecking if the plants are still getting adequate sun. They need morning sun until 10-11am only; dappled sun; or full but very bright shade.

Transplanting causes transplant shock. The root system is usually not as large as it used to be so the plants may suffer from heat stress more than before in this first summer. Hydrangeas suffer from heat stress when they lack enough water, when there is little humidity, when they get too much sun, when temperatures reach or exceed 85F and-or when it is windy.

You did not say exactly why you sprayed fungicides and pesticides so I cannot comment. This time of the year, the common pests are mites; hydrangea leaftier caterpillar/larva; or the leafroller insects. Another problem is the use of chemicals nearby, which affects the leaves. I would recommend being careful with some of these chemicals because you ave to apply chemicals whose active ingredient works on the problem. So in theory, you could pick a pesticide for insect x that does not help because the plant has insect z. So try to identify the fungus/pest before you buy the chemicals..

Thank you so much!

This is what I used.

That product says that it is only useful when (a) you have one of these fungal infections only: black spot, rust and powdery mildew; or (2) you have insects that can be controlled by neem oil. It would not do anything if your hydrangea had leaf spot. Its usefulness to hydrangea pests would be limited to selected pests only.

If your problem was due to a watering issue, it would not have helped.

Going forward, I would suggest to follow the water management suggestions already mentioned. If you have symptoms again, post pictures before getting rid of the leaves so we can validate what is going. Right now, the leaves left look normal and display no obvious signs of leaf spot or pests. The blooms are browning too early though and that is typically caused by lack of water, getting sun after 10-11am, getting too much wind, inconsistent watering, temps at or above 85F. Try to maintain the soil as evenly moist as you can.

Ok thank you!