Is this new construction? How many BTUs will the stove use? Where is it specified you need more than 400 CFM of air exhaust?

The International Building Code, if adopted in a municipality, establishes the legal need for make-up air (MUA). Municipalities, and/or states, generally can do whatever they want with demands on construction, pending someone with deep pockets making it a Federal case.

Some MUA basics:

• There is always MUA because no air leaves the kitchen via the hood that didn't get into the kitchen by some means.
• If this path is restrictive, i.e., has pressure loss, then the hood flow rate is restricted per the blower's "fan curve."
• If this path is restrictive and house pressure is lowered, combustion appliances that might be used in the house may be back-drafted with the consequence that carbon monoxide is introduced into the house air.
• MUA systems can be as simple as a duct with a damper allowing air into the house somewhere, or more complicated with pressure balancing, heating, and perhaps cooling.
• Simple versions should need no repair, in general, but have limitations. See the last 'n' years MUA related threads on this forum to catch up.

A hood basic:

• The flow rate to be actually achieved by a hood system for effluent containment depends on cooking plume velocity, hood overlap for good capture, and hood design, and only indirectly on BTU output of the cooking surface. (BTU based rules of thumb were developed for the significantly different but somewhat standardized commercial cooking hoods, and in my opinion are less based on physics than the "Greenheck method" based on plume velocity.) https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf

To the point: An induction cooktop doing significantly hot cooking such as searing or wok cooking will need supplemental make-up air in a closed house if the intended flow rate of the hood is sufficient to capture and contain the cooking plume(s).

Passive MUA systems (those without blowers) should only require filter changes over extended periods of time. My MUA isn't active yet so I can't address reliability. However, it should be as reliable as a hood and an electric or hydronic heater.

See also, inter alia, https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq#n=62

It depends where you live and what the weather is like. "Make up air" can happen as easily as cracking open a window in another room. In older houses, "make up air" comes from how air-leaky it is, as what happens when you turn on a bathroom exhaust fan when the windows are closed. Or maybe you need more - that's easy enough to do.

I agree with the others - cooking appliances of any heat source need a working exhaust fan to remove cooking odors. I wouldn't obsess over it. Give it your best shot, find someone capable to install it.

Thanks everyone. It is an old home from the 60s, but I checked with the city and they said anything above 400 CFM requires make-up air. We live in the PNW so weather is more on the mild side, but moisture is definitely a concern.

Right now we cook every day. Typically we only use one or two pans when cooking.

This wasn't really my question though as we are well aware of what make-up air is. My question was whether people have experienced problems with their house BECAUSE they installed the make-up air. It's a lovely house with surprisingly little problems for its age, and I would hate to put something in that compromises the condition of the house.

What's in place now? Gas or electric? Will a replacement cause new plumbing or electrical work be done?

If the work you're doing doesn't require a building permit, then make up air and other requirements are theoretical because nothing is required at that point. Get an adequate exhaust fan but most of the year in the Pac NW, you can comfortably crack a window while it's on.

On the other hand, if the work does require new plumbing or electrical lines a permit might be needed and then you could find other peripheral mandates need to be met. I had that experience when redoing some bathrooms. In one, there was some rerouting of water and drain pipes so a permit was required. As a result, I fell under a new code rule that every bedroom, hallway, and passageway needed to have a combination of smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. I had some in place but of different types and not so many. Placing them had nothing at all to do with the bathrooms but the pulling of a permit required that this general, unrelated mandate be complied with.

If the dew point of the air outside were higher than the temperature inside, one could get condensation on the interior surfaces. This would be very rare, requiring a cold house and warm wet outdoors. Houses cold from air conditioning are also dehumidified, so effects of damp MUA would seem to me to be transitory, where possible.

A bigger issue in cold climates is interior humidification for health reasons such that the dew point passes the temperature of walls and windows, leading to condensation. That shouldn't be an issue with MUA unless deliberately humidified.

What outdoor dew points do you routinely see?

Electric is in place but there is a gas fireplace very close to the kitchen. My GC implied it would be relatively cheap to wire the gas line to the kitchen. There is no range hood currently, so I assume there would need to be a permit to install it and any required ducting, unfortunately.

I was not aware of the concept of dew points. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm seeing 20s-50s when I look online.

"If the dew point of the air outside were higher than the temperature inside, one could get condensation on the interior surfaces. This would be very rare, requiring a cold house and warm wet outdoors. "

You're describing the East Coast, not the Pacific Northwest or even the Pacific Coast. High humidity from rain and warm weather are most uncommon.