A pic would help. I believe in thinning fruit to 1 ideally per branch, maybe 2 tops, the closest ones to the trunk.

The tree will drop the fruit that it can't support.

Right Ken, about 90%. Maybe more.

Enjoy what is does, and why not pics? Would love to see that tree)

MIke

Lol, no pics because it was raining. Here ya go.

I’m with Dave. Nice looking tree too. Beautiful. Thanks for the pic. We are picture hungry people here. Ha

Your tree looks healthy. As Dave wrote just let your tree take care of it self.

So if I trim back the long branches... how far back do I trim them and when do I trim them?

You could trim any time. Summer is a good time. But it's your call. Maybe you like that tree shape the way it is. I can't say exactly how far back because there's nothing for scale in your pic. Maybe halfway back to the trunk? That may sound extreme, but it's your call, really.

Some of the lower branches are still to low, might not Need them at all. You got plenty of top growth, looking at the pictures. If fruits touches the ground they going to rot anyway.

If you leave up the Way you have, you might be ok. Like Dave said.your call!

now you need to shape them

During the first years, there is no need to cut all, or part of these vigorous sprouts, since research has shown that any cut to a young tree reduces root growth. This is due to the equilibrium between foliage and root system. In the book "Plant Production In Containers II" Dr. Carl Whitcomb Ph.D. states that the lower branches supplies energy/growth to he lower portion of the tree's trunk.

that all goes with shaping them you don't want roots to grow to fast

Now I'm wondering with the notions being brought up with shaping... the tree is somewhat uneven on it's horizontal.. could it be possible to trim the long branches from one side and graft onto the other? I know how to graft.

that can be learned by trial and error

and when evening them up.save the cuttings fo scionwood

"It’s important to prune at the right time, lest you risk losing the year’s yield. Lemon tree pruning should occur after it has produced the fall harvest to give it plenty of time to recover prior to the next season’s harvest. If you live in a warm climate, you have a bit more leeway on exactly when to prune; just don’t do it when it’s roasting hot. For everyone else, February through April are the best pruning months. On the whole, however, you can prune any time the tree is producing flowers."

Read more at Gardening Know How: Lemon Tree Pruning: When Is The Best Time To Prune Lemon Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/lemons/lemon-tree-pruning.htm

Too hot out. Get as much photosynthesis you can before the fall. If you are asking how to support heavy fruit, I use mini bamboo trellis at dollar stores to support fruit. Just cut to the size you need. You need a certain number of leaves per fruit ratio. The more you cut the more fruit will drop. If you want to cut one branch no problem. Not the right time to cat back a lot.

How would I use trellises? The branches overhang the outside of the pot, outside where a trellis can be put.

You can buy these at most dollar stores. Just cut down to what ever size you need. Put them inside pot around the edges.

Keep cutting until you get a size that works. Have tried metal but this works better.

I know what trellises are and how to use them- in a pot. Kind of difficult to use a trellis on a branch that overhangs outside the pot by 16-20 inches. That's what needs either trimming or support, the stuff that extends past the pot.

You can learn the art of Espalier and train the woody branches in two-dimensions, or support low to the ground as I suggested and let the branches flow over pot or use a taller trellis and raise the branches up or use a post in the center of the pot and tie up the longer branches. Thousands of ways to do it.

Easy to find tying material and stakes at a dollar store. You can tie the long branches up to pretty much with anything and raise them up or support them and let them flower over the pot.Tomato cage another idea.

I use the metal pieces a lot. I cut them down to what ever height I need. You can adopt for any pot any any height by cutting metal to size.

You could also use a tall pot and let flow over the pot.

Here are some more creative ideas for training a citrus.

that's a beging to shape them but at some time you will need to take cuttings help shape and to be able to come to the pot

Yeah, I espalier- tomatoes, peppers, hops, grapes, blackberries, dewberries, did apple and pear trees ages ago. But my plant isn't able to stay outdoors year round, I live where it freezes. So outdoors espalier is out, and trying to espalier in a pot that gets moved indoors/outdoors is really cumbersome.

Unfortunately a lot of the wood to the trunk is already well and hard, and not very flexible to start training with anymore either. I guess I should have started training it several years ago to go that route.

For now I guess I'll leave it as has been suggested. I'll trim it later when it isn't so hot.

ok but the trimming is nessacarry and save your trimmings for scion wood

I am thinking on that too Howard. Saving the cuttings and grafting in. And LLO's advice.

I might be overthinking this season since I'm excited and wondering what to do about the first full mature fruiting of the tree here at 6-7 years old.

that is how some citrus, trees are when you grow them from seed yes you should have shaped the tree many years ago when it was easy to do so by training and minimum trimming but now you have, to do it the hard way

Let me see some of your trees Howard, I am very anxious to see how you do yours.

I didn't grow my tree from seed. Not sure where that assumption came from.

bob my trees are seedlings

these are my lemon seedlings

Most citrus from seed grow tall and develop a distinctive vertical trunk. Not so much with citrus started from cuttings unless they have been trained early on.

these are just seedlings now