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bowmeister67

Refinishing character grade white oak to bare look?

6 years ago

Our remodel includes updating 20 year-old medium brown character-grade white oak mixed-width hardwood flooring, which has ambered over time. We are adding new matching wood in 2 rooms on the same level (first floor) and then will refinish all in a new stain. The dilemma for me is that we are also replacing upstairs bedroom carpeting with wood and feel that it should have a similar look. I currently favor the Studio McGee light, wide plank oak look, but do not want to tear up 1500 square feet of hardwood to get this vibe throughout the house. I have contemplated installing engineered wood upstairs to avoid the displacement of the finish process upstairs and then, trying to refinish my existing floor in a similar look downstairs. I have read many threads about achieving the bare/whiter/lighter wood look on white oak, but I do not know how this will look on character-grade. I fear that my current stain is obscuring a lot of board to board color variation that once removed may not lend itself to the look I desire and then I will want to refinish in a darker cooler brown tone. know my best approach would be to start there, but due to some other issues the process is going to have to happen in reverse with me making the upstairs new flooring choices first. I have my heart set on the light floors in the upstairs girls' bedrooms, but am afraid to lock in to prefinished and then be unable to achieve the look downstairs. Is my best strategy to install unfinished plank upstairs and live through the sanding and refinishing process because that gives me more options or is it unnecessary worry to think that I won't be able to refinish the current floor for a similar look?

Comments (11)

  • 6 years ago

    Photos of what you WANT upstairs and photos of your current hardwoods now.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I picked up some sample boards today of the engineered floor I am currently liking, Opus Premium European Oak Naples. Here it is pictured vs. my current hardwood below.


    Opus Naples below


    current mixed width 4-5-6-7 character grade oak below



    Seeing the comparison in my house leads me to a couple of thoughts. First, I want to make sure this wide-plank look will stand the test of time. If I commit to it, my best bet may be to replace all of the hardwood I currently have with the engineered, which seems to defeat the purpose of getting solid hardwood in the first place. I currently have about 1500 square feet of hardwood that will be refinished and another 1500 square feet of new to be added. If I calculated correctly, it may be less expensive to replace all with the engineered, if we do our own demo. My concern here is if the wide plank is right for my house in the Midwest and if this particular flooring brand is the best way to achieve it and if I will be happy with this decision five years from now! Secondly, if we keep our current floor, I am thinking that the grain and knots of the character grade will jump out even more with a light finish that may not give me the lighter, raw-looking clean finish that I like.....raw, but busy. Lastly, I feel like my best bet may be to keep what I have, install the same throughout the first floor and then, maybe pick a size like 5" and install a uniform plank upstairs in solid and then, figure out the stain once the floors are installed. At least that way, if my contractor and I cannot figure out the perfect formulation to achieve the look I love, I can resort to something darker that I would be happy with as well. Any insight appreciated!

  • PRO
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago



    You are looking to do this? You will nee to find someone with finishing skills. But it is doable at the right cost. Find a NWFA certified craftsman in your area.

    bowmeister67 thanked G & S Floor Service
  • 6 years ago

    Thank you! Yes, I did look for a NWFA certified sander and refinisher in my area and the closest one was 90 minutes away. I do have a reputable craftsman coming tomorrow for a consultation, but I am not sure he has been trained using the products necessary to achieve this look. I've read on this site that it is very specific and not for the untrained to tackle.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    The easiest way is to use a hard wax oil system. Which may not fit your lifestyle. a Polyurethane system will be more ideal. It takes a little more work to do.

  • 6 years ago

    Does Bona certified mean anything?

  • 6 years ago

    Bona Certified means the person (or someone at the SHOP if this is a company with more than one refinisher) has attended Bona Training and had strong enough understanding of the Bona methods to be called 'certified'.


    Hopefully this is a single person. I've seen some shops use the 'Certified' designation when in truth only one person had the training (and was no longer employed with said company). Sad. But true.

  • 5 years ago

    Did you go with the Opus Naples ? I am looking at it now. No one has heard of Opus !

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    We did not. We ended up installing character grade white oak to match our existing hardwood. We will sand and refinish old and new sometime in 2021, hoping to achieve a light finish that we love. I wish I could remember the name of the company in California who distributes Opus. I called them to inquire and was told that Opus is manufactured in China and they simply distribute here in the US. I was unable to find any other information or reviews and it made me a little nervous to commit. I will probably regret that decision when I have to move all of my furniture and live through the sand and stain process! I wish I had more information for you...I know how frustrating the search can be!

  • last year

    I just saw your post today. We are in the process of doing the same thing, but with different wood. We currently have solid red oak, smooth, narrow plank downstairs. We plan to refinish it and install solid hardwood upstairs. I'm looking at a prefinished hickory wood, with mixed widths of 3 1/4" - 5 1/4" but curious how your project came out and if it met your expectations.