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hunzi

running a hydronic loop on a hot water/cast iron rad system

6 years ago

Y'all will probably scoff, but can I add a loop of hydronic onto an existing hot water & cast iron radiator system?


We have an office that used to be a side porch - I'm in Nebraska - that porch is FREEZING with the one of biggest radiators in the house. We plan to gut it to the studs/floor joists/rafters, pour a rat slab in the crawlspace, (fix any structural surprises), spray foam insulation on the 3 exterior walls, ceiling and under the floor. We'd like to switch out the radiator for full-floor hydronic in diy quick track (because the rad is huge, takes up major wall space, and is in an awkward corner) - I can't pour a concrete floor out there. Finish with hardwood.


So the boiler (a cast-iron monster installed in 1925) usually runs at around 160 degrees most of the time, and that keeps 3000 sqft toasty with a rad in every room of a full masonry Victorian with big single-pane windows & 10ft ceilings. The system used to be gravity fed, now has a pump that runs continuously. The whole system was probably installed in 1925, coal-fired, converted to natural gas.


Do we have to reduce the temp of the water with a mixing valve? If the pump runs all the time on the whole system, is that good enough to run the loop?


I know this is rambly, and I know enough to be dangerous, but probably don't know what I don't know!


Help! We're in the planning stages of the next DIY surge.

Hunzi





Comments (6)

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Most cast iron radiator systems run about 130-140 degrees because it works well with the mass of a cast iron radiator. However, in-floor hydronic is in contact with your feet, so it usually does not exceed about 90- 100 degrees. There are mixing valve solutions available, but they are not very cost effective for only one or two rooms. I came to that conclusion when I renovated my side porch, and ended up using Myson radiators that are much more compact than the old cast iron.

    My new addition has foam insulation (including the crawlspace and attic), Tyvek, and all the other upgraded insulation and sealing that makes it much tighter than the rest of the house. Last winter we didn't connect the new radiators until about January, and those rooms were almost the same temperature as the main house. You could probably use much smaller radiators and make them less intrusive if you are doing other improvements as part of your renovation.

    Bruce

    Hunzi thanked Bruce in Northern Virginia
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Have you figured out why this big radiator is not getting hot? Is it the radiator or the supply? You also should look into installing new baseboard or wall radiators. They more attractive and smaller than a 1920's radiator. It would be more compatible with your current hydronic system and a lot less money.

    Hunzi thanked mike_home
  • 6 years ago

    The radiator gets plenty hot. The problem is the lack of insulation. We plan to fix that, and we're looking for another heating solution. I have another room (master bedroom) with an undersized rad - maybe we'll just look a switching them out.

  • 6 years ago

    Hardwood manufacturer will be God. We'll put in 3/4 unfinished oak strip and finish it ourselves with Waterlox.