I think I should root prune/repot more often

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

I use the idiot-proof 511 mix in my pots. I had an Osmanthus which has been growing very vigrously. Too vigrously actually. I knew I had to repot it but was dodging the job. After all it is an osmanthus fragrans. Not a (grow like there is no tommorow) Hibuscus.

The writing was on the wall when the whole plant sort of started getting pushed out of the pot. And I decided to do it. Just do it. I tip the pot and signs are not good.

Sheer horror on removing the pot. And this guy has spent just two years in this pot !!!

I have read that osmanthus is a fincky plant and does not like its roots getting disturbed. And then this. I have to prune it and put it in a new pot.

I will keep the post very factual. And will not claim that I did a good job. I might have as well killed it with the messy root prune job.

You see problem with this Osmanthus is that their roots are not like Lemon. Lemon has thick roots and fibrous roots growing from there. Not this guy. Its roots are just dense. I found very few roots of any significant thickness.

Before you see the pictures of root pruning/carnage, please be advised that I have one more Osmanthus in another pot. :-)

I have read what AL had written on root pruning and accordingly bottom 1/3 went off. It was anyways too dense to be salvaged.

Rest was combing the roots out. Lot of root breakage. Cutting off any roots with kinks in their length.

If plants can curse I should be driving my car more carefully.

The whole root ball almost is now halved. At this point I stopped. I put the plant in the new container which is two size bigger. I did not put it back in the same old pot since this guy has a habit of tipping over and breaking up the surrounding plants. Then I put four bamboo sticks and tied it with strings on all four sides so that it does not sway a lot in wind.

I will update the thread to give people a closure on how it ended. No matter how bad or good the outcome is.

Featured Answer

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

6 years ago

These are some of the tools I use for repotting. The tool that looks like a root rake to the right of the pruning saw is a root rake, can be had here for under $10, stainless steel a few $ more. The wooden tool made from a dowel rod looks exactly like a 'tell', which is used to check moisture levels deep in a pot, but this highly specialized tool made by sharpening a dowel rod in a pencil sharpener is filling in as a root-pick, which is used to tease soil out of the roots. The hooked tool with a wooden handle is a single prong root hook. It's used to untangle roots and can also be had here for less than $10.

When I root prune, I comb out some of the roots, then snip them off, then repeat. When I'm done, there is a hollow in the root mass directly under the trunk where there are no roots. The tree, regardless of it's size, will have a root system that looks like it will fit over an over-turned soup bowl, or for trees older than 25 years, the root system might be flat.

When I pot the tree, I mound the soil in a volcano shape, set the center of the roots on the peak and rotate the tree back and forth to settle the soil into the hollow before adding more soil and working it into all air spaces in the roots with the root pick. If you stick the tapered tip of the root pick in beween roots and rotate the end in your hand in a circular motion like you're following the rim of a funnel, you can watch the soil settle into the roots like it's going down a swirling drain.

Strong work, JS. If the last image in the OP shows what the root mass looked like before it was repotted, I'd have pruned roots tight to the bottom and removed all the long roots sticking out of what's left of the root mass. You might even have done that, but I thought I'd make the suggestion.

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Comments (10)

tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years ago
Looks like you did all the right things. Nice job.

Did you keep your roots wet through the process? I keep a spray bottle handy or use the hose at mist setting. Keep the plant in bright open shade for a week or so.

One thing I always do and recommend to everyone is to tie the plant to pot. This keeps it from moving around or shaken out of its position. And thus less of a chance of breakage of new roots. You tie a couple of guys wires from the edge of the pot to a suitable branch high enough.
Just Started(Sydney) thanked tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
lisanti07028
6 years ago
You did a good job, and your plant will be MUCH happier once it settles in.
Just Started(Sydney) thanked lisanti07028
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Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I have failed you Master @tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a) :'-(

I did not have guts to go beyond that. The canopy is rather large.

This is after root pruning and repotting.

All I had. Yes that is an office scissor on the left. Maybe I should buy something better.
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
6 years ago
@tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA) Yeah the plant has been tied. On all four sides. I did spray the roots to keep them on moist side. However the plant is in sun as of now. Shady areas are too windy.
tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years ago
You may want to reduce the canopy a bit too to keep it in balance since you pruned a good portion of the roots. With reduced roots and in Sun the plant may find it hard to keep up with water needs and start dropping leaves and branches. Your call.
Just Started(Sydney) thanked tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
6 years ago
Hmm. Might as well do that. I did want to prune it at tips to make it a bit bushy. The problem is that it flowers only on the old wood. I will also see if I can put it in shade after putting in some wind barriers.
Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
6 years ago
Wow, very encouraging. I have one also that is in dire need of the same attention. Thank you)
Just Started(Sydney)
Original Author
6 years ago
Its windy like hell today and no nook or corner is immune. Tragedy unfolded as the root ball started heaving and swaying in the pot.

Emergency procedure done. Tied the plant to surrounding tree and fences rather than the sticks buried in the pot itself.
tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years ago
JS: The plant probably is still fine. Tying the plant to the pot ensures that the plant does not dislodge from the pot. As a matter of practice I always tie the plant to the pot. There are couple of ways to do that. Guy wire (at least 3) from the central stem to the edge of the pot (you need to drill holes at the edge). Or run a loop or two of wires from holes in the bottom of the pot and tie the rootball. In bonsai there is a saying: tie the plant to the pot, pot to the table and the table to the ground :))