What kind of grass seed did you use? Fescue? Kentucky bluegrass? Rye?

For some reason, I'm only spottily seeing new comments. It's weird.

Slow new grass growth on northern mixed grasses is normal. It's called "sprout and pout." It doesn't mean nothing is happening, it means things are happening that you can't see. Mostly, the roots are slowly, slowly establishing themselves.

It'll usually come out of S&P after a month or so. Sometimes it takes a little longer.

You should feed about a month to five weeks after seeding. Use any fertilizer (although I do generally recommend an organic like Milorganite on young lawns to avoid potential issues, synthetics aren't really a problem usually) at bag rate. It won't speed you out of sprout and pout, but it's time to feed anyway.

I was thinking of using fall fertilizer or another round of starter fertilizer. You like milorganite?

For September and October, yes, in our general area. Post about October 20th, temperatures are starting to fall a bit too cold (most years, last year was an exception) for use.

After that, synthetics like Vigoro are our only option for feeding. Organics will still decay, but it's very, very slow. There are other options for delayed feeding, though at that late date, they're not necessary.

They're kind of expensive. If you want to pay that, go ahead, though, there's nothing wrong with them. The price on the organics is outrageous, actually. :-) I can get a fifty pound bag of soybean meal (7-1-2) for around $16, or a 32 pound bag of Milorganite at the big box store where it's expensive for $15.

Usually I'd recommend a very low to zero phosphorus fertilizer (the second number) for lawns, but most of these are close enough. The first number (nitrogen) is much higher than the other two for most of them, and I never really care about the third number (potassium) anyway. A little extra potassium isn't really a bad thing, and it's not particularly antagonistic to anything anyway.

Milorganite (6-4-0) is my exception to that rule, although you'll note I push soybean meal (7-1-2) far more often anyway.

It's a weird year, so Milo is what I'm telling people if they're not comfortable doing some traveling. Strap on a mask, or have the Milo delivered as the big two (Lowe's and Home Depot) will do that for a small fee. I just arranged to be there at 6:15 AM when I knew it would be empty.

After 49 pounds of Jonathan Green's Black Beauty about six weeks ago my lawn is looking very very good. I think we had one day of rain in those six weeks and my water bill is going to be sky high. I fertilized with Lawn Restore about two weeks ago and was wondering if I should fertilize again around the beginning of Novenber with either turf builder or Scotts fall fertilizer. I don't fertilize in the spring until mid May or late May.

What do you all think?

November first would be around the correct time; it's whenever the lawn stops growing and you do the last cut. Give or take. A lot. You don't want to be very late, but being early is not a major problem (you'll simply send some of that nitrogen into growth instead of storage. No huge issue).

For me, somewhat south of you, and on a very different lawn and grass species, my drop date tends to be between November 15th and November 30th in the average year. Which means the actual date can be anywhere from Halloween to Christmas, although I'll never let it go that late. If the weather's holding, it gets two "final" feedings.

what fertilizer do you use in late November

That varies. Most years? Simple urea, 46-0-0, no slow release. It's cold, it's hard to burn the lawn, I drop it at 2.2 pounds per thousand (give or take, it's really not that important). It releases quickly when it rains, it processes fast in the soil, and soil temperatures are still high enough (in the 40's) that it can process without issues. Due to this half-arsed Zombie Apocalypse, however, I didn't make the trip to get it.

This year? Vigoro Super Green. It's an odd year. We have a long-range forecast of warmer weather, so the slow-release N isn't a problem, and I'm in a warmer zone anyway. Should the ground freeze, processing just stops anyway, and my lawn never really goes dormant. 35-0-5 with some small amount of iron.

For most lawns, I would recommend any high-nitrogen (first number) fertilizer, with low second and third numbers, with no or very low slow-release percentages, and it can have iron if you want it, or not if you don't.