Are you saying you want to install solid hardwood that is site finished? And you want white oak? And you want to have something that looks nice with the tiles?

OK...go out and start looking at solid hardwoods from hardwood flooring PROFESSIONAL stores (the ones that sell and install and have been in business for 20+ years). Now pick out a GRADE of white oak. The more rustic/lower the grade the more 'movement' (number of colours) you will get with the wood. This natural movement would go WELL with your tile.

Get the wood installed. Now get your refinisher to apply a single coat of finish on a 'test patch' of the wood. While s/he's at it, get a few different stains that are CLOSE in colour to the colours in your tile floor. Great. Now send them home for the weekend. Go ahead and look at the test patches in ALL 5 lighting situations. Pick the one you like the best and tell them what to bring with them on Monday.

That's the way it is SUPPOSED to be done. It is absolutely NORMAL to ask for finish/colour test patches BEFORE the floor gets the final finish. totally normal. My suggestion would be to look at white oak in a lower grade like Common #1 or #2.

Thank you @SJ McCarthy.

I ordered grade 1 because to match the floor in other rooms. I would like to have natural instead of dark color. I research the loba and BONA. And it can use clear polyethylene water based. what do you suggestion the brand of natural color?

How about? Blonde, 1/2 country white 1/2 neutral, weathered oak or 50/50 grey/provincial ? I don’t want dark color. I like to have light warm . I am not sure about loba Supra 2k?

When working with white oak, you will need to use a sealer if you go without stain. Bona has SEVERAL sealers if you want to go 'naked'. Loba 2K Supra AT is a fantastic product. Very durable. Both Bona and Loba have their own line of stains.

Again you will HAVE to have a TEST PATCHES applied to the floor in your home...so that you can decide which colour you want. And ALWAYS see a coat of finish over the patches...Always.

Do you have photos of your other wood floor???

Over 20 years, it is very golden look. I do not want any golden look. I prefer subtle and warm

After 20 years, they need to be refinished in the next few years anyway. You can add in new with the same grade/species and then sand/refinish everything.

BTW: your floors do not have a stain. They are finished in OIL based polyurethane.

Oil based polyurethane is known for 2 things:

1. Stench (it causes migraines, nausea and nosebleeds in some)

2. Orange...it turns orangey/yellow over time

Your floor has the colour associated with oil based finishes over wood. To get away from this look you can finish with Water based polyurethane.

No need to waste the time for a custom mix stain. You can use Bona classic seal with Bona water base poly to get the look you want.

1/2 white and neutral = Bona Naturalseal

1/2 grey and provincial = will not be light and warm.

@G & S Floor Service

could you help me out? I saw about BONA dry fast grey and two coat of matte. What does it look like?

It would be grey with brown hues. The best fit for the look and feel you like to achieve . Light and warm, would be classic seal or intense seal. Gray will be cooler, unless that is what you want.

To tone down the gray add neutral or a brown stain.

if, you want more silver add white.

@G & S Floor Service

do you have a photo of those on white oak? I need to try to picture.

https://www.pinterest.com/gandswoodfloors

You can see a bunch of colors here of my past projects.

I found some information. LOBA Invisible have little yellow tint. I do not see any yellow tint in Supra.

How many coats?

1. One coat easy prime and two coat Supra?

2. one coat easy prime, two coat invisible and one coat Supra?

3. Outcome for 2 and 3, which one is more yellow?

You have a old floor. There will be some yellowing with all the finish. I would go with one coat of easy prime and two coats of "Supra AT", not Supra.

I’m trying to find the picture of Supra AT OF your work. You have so many pictures. I can’t locate it.

one area will be install new white oak as well . I hope it will match closely to the old floor.

I am concern about oil stains. It will be a problem. I have small dog as well.

anything should I know?

White Oak requires a sealant. That means Loba 2K Supra AT requires either: stain (one of Loba's) or WS EasyPrime. When working with one of the toughest finishes on the market you NEVER want to go 'cheap' with it. I recommend 1 coat of WS EasyPrime and 2 coats of 2K Supra AT. There is no need to reinvent the wheel. Loba has already done all the research in Germany....since 1945.

If, the old floor is 20 - 30 years old. You will not notice a difference. Anything older, the tannins are much stronger. A 50-60 year old floor will look very different up against a new one with any clear water base system. If, you want to limit the variation use a stain.

Why would oil stain be a problem? It's been around forever.

@G & S Floor Service

The main reason that I do not like yellow or golden. What do you recommend the brand is the best with oil based and less yellow?

and also it will not look good with kitchen tile if I use oil based.

if I use birch color stain and oil based . Will it turn yellowish anyway?

If, you don’t want yellow use Loba invisible, Bona natural seal or Bona Nordic seal With water base poly.

post a picture of the floor you want. I can tell you how to achieve it.

I should send you another photo of my kitchen.

@G & S Floor Service

what about loba Supra AT? Over 60 years old wood floor

Loba 2K Supra AT is fine over old wood. So long as you remove the original stuff properly you can have a great looking floor. The Supra AT comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. If you want matte (I do NOT recommend it...there are issues with very low gloss floors) you have to work with the Invisible AT.

@G & S Floor Service

yesterday, installed new white oak floor.

I am still struggling to find the color stains. Fruitwood of look like yellowish and orange. I think I like weather oak better but I’m concern it may be greenish. I’m trying to match with tile floor but I do not want to dark overall Because of the cabinet.

Here is a project I did a few years back with grey over white oak. Weathered oak will allow more brown through.

@G & S Floor Service

Thank you for hint information. I like weather oak but I didn’t realize that it will be more brown to see the overall.

I want to know what’s the tech suppose to do .

First step: sanding

second step: stain

third step: buff

fourth step: Loba Supra 1 coat

fifth step: Buff

sixth step: Loba Supra 2 coats

thats it

correct?

No buffing after stain, just apply Supra.

@G & S Floor Service

Water popping, how long dry before stains and etc...

i read about water popping to make richer look. Will it work with weather oak?

after stain, how long dry before Supra?

after first coat Supra, how long dry before second coat Supra ? Again third coat. Is it three days for Supra?

Water popping dry time - depending on the work environment. It can take anywhere from 1 hour to overnight. Best way to be sure is to use a moisture meter. Take a reference reading prior to water popping to indicate dry point. Water pop and allow to dry. Take a reading to see if, the dry point has returned to the original reading. If, it does, you know it is dry.

Yes, water popping will allow the stain to penetrate deeper, resulting in a darker and richer color. Eliminating the need for a second coat, which can be detrimental to coating.

Staining can take anywhere from 6 to over 72 hours to dry. You will need to check with the manufacturer for their recommendations for proper dry time and conditions. Darker pigments will take longer to dry compare to naturals. If, you mix colors allow the maximum time required.

Dry time for Supra will depend on the square footage and how many hours in the day you are willing to work. The recommended dry time for Supra is 4-6 hours under good conditions. Humidity and low temperature will extend dry time. If, you have a lot of square footage example: 1000 square feet. I would allow overnight to dry. 1000 square feet coating will increase the indoor humidity, which will extend dry time. Multiple coats in 1 day is not advised.

Compared to a 200 square feet coating where the humidity doesn't significantly increase. The dry time is more truer to what is suggested by mfg. Multiple coats is possible in one day.

Your flooring contractor should know all this. If, not run for the hills.

@G & S Floor Service

help...

I am planning to use duraseal weather oak stains on the white oak.

after this , I will use LOBA 2k Supra or LOBA 2k Supra AT. What is the difference between Supra and Supra AT?

Supra AT is a ceramic finish. Whereas Supra is acrylic.

@G & S Floor Service

Are they both good? Are they cracking or peeling ? Which one is more pop up with satin finish? If I decide to use 4 coats. Is it making more dull or look better?

Supra is good. Supra AT is better. If, the finish cracks and peel. It is a installer issue, not a product issue. I believe the gloss level in satin are equal. I maybe incorrect. Would need to check Loba's TDS. More coatings will look more plastic. It will increase the shine.

@G & S Floor Service

4 coats look more plastic if I use Supra at?

4 coats look more plastic with all polyurethane systems. It’s a film building system.

@G & S Floor Service

I’m worry. What should I do? Three coats is better? I am planning to have this on first floor. I can’t picture how plastic look? Does it look horrible?

The image I posted with Nordic seal is two coats of poly. That is pretty close to a plastic look.

if, the sanding is not flat and smooth. You won’t have nothing to worry about. The flaws will stand out.

@G & S Floor Service

do you know which better brand water based with no plastic look and resist scratches?