fsg89

Unfinished white oak- natural or stain?

fsg89
11 days ago
last modified: 11 days ago

I am trying to find the right color on the white oak hardwood unfinished with kitchen tiles. I do not want too much contract. I would rather the warm color. What do you recommend?


Comments (37)

  • SJ McCarthy
    10 days ago

    Are you saying you want to install solid hardwood that is site finished? And you want white oak? And you want to have something that looks nice with the tiles?


    OK...go out and start looking at solid hardwoods from hardwood flooring PROFESSIONAL stores (the ones that sell and install and have been in business for 20+ years). Now pick out a GRADE of white oak. The more rustic/lower the grade the more 'movement' (number of colours) you will get with the wood. This natural movement would go WELL with your tile.


    Get the wood installed. Now get your refinisher to apply a single coat of finish on a 'test patch' of the wood. While s/he's at it, get a few different stains that are CLOSE in colour to the colours in your tile floor. Great. Now send them home for the weekend. Go ahead and look at the test patches in ALL 5 lighting situations. Pick the one you like the best and tell them what to bring with them on Monday.


    That's the way it is SUPPOSED to be done. It is absolutely NORMAL to ask for finish/colour test patches BEFORE the floor gets the final finish. totally normal. My suggestion would be to look at white oak in a lower grade like Common #1 or #2.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    10 days ago
    last modified: 10 days ago

    Thank you @SJ McCarthy.

    I ordered grade 1 because to match the floor in other rooms. I would like to have natural instead of dark color. I research the loba and BONA. And it can use clear polyethylene water based. what do you suggestion the brand of natural color?

  • fsg89
    Original Author
    10 days ago

    How about? Blonde, 1/2 country white 1/2 neutral, weathered oak or 50/50 grey/provincial ? I don’t want dark color. I like to have light warm . I am not sure about loba Supra 2k?

  • SJ McCarthy
    10 days ago

    When working with white oak, you will need to use a sealer if you go without stain. Bona has SEVERAL sealers if you want to go 'naked'. Loba 2K Supra AT is a fantastic product. Very durable. Both Bona and Loba have their own line of stains.


    Again you will HAVE to have a TEST PATCHES applied to the floor in your home...so that you can decide which colour you want. And ALWAYS see a coat of finish over the patches...Always.


    Do you have photos of your other wood floor???

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    10 days ago

    Over 20 years, it is very golden look. I do not want any golden look. I prefer subtle and warm


  • SJ McCarthy
    9 days ago

    After 20 years, they need to be refinished in the next few years anyway. You can add in new with the same grade/species and then sand/refinish everything.


    BTW: your floors do not have a stain. They are finished in OIL based polyurethane.


    Oil based polyurethane is known for 2 things:

    1. Stench (it causes migraines, nausea and nosebleeds in some)

    2. Orange...it turns orangey/yellow over time


    Your floor has the colour associated with oil based finishes over wood. To get away from this look you can finish with Water based polyurethane.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    9 days ago
    last modified: 9 days ago

    No need to waste the time for a custom mix stain. You can use Bona classic seal with Bona water base poly to get the look you want.



    1/2 white and neutral = Bona Naturalseal

    1/2 grey and provincial = will not be light and warm.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    9 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    could you help me out? I saw about BONA dry fast grey and two coat of matte. What does it look like?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    9 days ago
    last modified: 9 days ago

    It would be grey with brown hues. The best fit for the look and feel you like to achieve . Light and warm, would be classic seal or intense seal. Gray will be cooler, unless that is what you want.

    To tone down the gray add neutral or a brown stain.


    if, you want more silver add white.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    9 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    do you have a photo of those on white oak? I need to try to picture.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    9 days ago

    https://www.pinterest.com/gandswoodfloors


    You can see a bunch of colors here of my past projects.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    9 days ago

    I found some information. LOBA Invisible have little yellow tint. I do not see any yellow tint in Supra.


    How many coats?

    1. One coat easy prime and two coat Supra?


    2. one coat easy prime, two coat invisible and one coat Supra?


    3. Outcome for 2 and 3, which one is more yellow?


  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    9 days ago

    You have a old floor. There will be some yellowing with all the finish. I would go with one coat of easy prime and two coats of "Supra AT", not Supra.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    9 days ago

    I’m trying to find the picture of Supra AT OF your work. You have so many pictures. I can’t locate it.


    one area will be install new white oak as well . I hope it will match closely to the old floor.


    I am concern about oil stains. It will be a problem. I have small dog as well.


    anything should I know?

  • SJ McCarthy
    8 days ago

    White Oak requires a sealant. That means Loba 2K Supra AT requires either: stain (one of Loba's) or WS EasyPrime. When working with one of the toughest finishes on the market you NEVER want to go 'cheap' with it. I recommend 1 coat of WS EasyPrime and 2 coats of 2K Supra AT. There is no need to reinvent the wheel. Loba has already done all the research in Germany....since 1945.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    8 days ago
    last modified: 8 days ago

    If, the old floor is 20 - 30 years old. You will not notice a difference. Anything older, the tannins are much stronger. A 50-60 year old floor will look very different up against a new one with any clear water base system. If, you want to limit the variation use a stain.


    Why would oil stain be a problem? It's been around forever.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    8 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    The main reason that I do not like yellow or golden. What do you recommend the brand is the best with oil based and less yellow?


    and also it will not look good with kitchen tile if I use oil based.


    if I use birch color stain and oil based . Will it turn yellowish anyway?


  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    8 days ago
    last modified: 8 days ago

    If, you don’t want yellow use Loba invisible, Bona natural seal or Bona Nordic seal With water base poly.



    post a picture of the floor you want. I can tell you how to achieve it.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    8 days ago

    I should send you another photo of my kitchen.


  • fsg89
    Original Author
    8 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    what about loba Supra AT? Over 60 years old wood floor

  • SJ McCarthy
    8 days ago

    Loba 2K Supra AT is fine over old wood. So long as you remove the original stuff properly you can have a great looking floor. The Supra AT comes in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. If you want matte (I do NOT recommend it...there are issues with very low gloss floors) you have to work with the Invisible AT.

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    8 days ago

    Here is a project i did with Nordicseal a couple years back with Traffic HD Matte on a 100 year old home in the Northeast. Still slightly yellow. So Easy Prime and Supra AT will have more color.



  • fsg89
    Original Author
    5 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    yesterday, installed new white oak floor.

    I am still struggling to find the color stains. Fruitwood of look like yellowish and orange. I think I like weather oak better but I’m concern it may be greenish. I’m trying to match with tile floor but I do not want to dark overall Because of the cabinet.


  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    5 days ago


    Here is a project I did a few years back with grey over white oak. Weathered oak will allow more brown through.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    5 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    Thank you for hint information. I like weather oak but I didn’t realize that it will be more brown to see the overall.


    I want to know what’s the tech suppose to do .

    First step: sanding

    second step: stain

    third step: buff

    fourth step: Loba Supra 1 coat

    fifth step: Buff

    sixth step: Loba Supra 2 coats

    thats it


    correct?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    5 days ago

    No buffing after stain, just apply Supra.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    4 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    Water popping, how long dry before stains and etc...


    i read about water popping to make richer look. Will it work with weather oak?


    after stain, how long dry before Supra?


    after first coat Supra, how long dry before second coat Supra ? Again third coat. Is it three days for Supra?

  • fsg89
    Original Author
    3 days ago
    last modified: 3 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    help...

    I am planning to use duraseal weather oak stains on the white oak.

    after this , I will use LOBA 2k Supra or LOBA 2k Supra AT. What is the difference between Supra and Supra AT?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 days ago

    Supra AT is a ceramic finish. Whereas Supra is acrylic.

  • fsg89
    Original Author
    2 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service

    Are they both good? Are they cracking or peeling ? Which one is more pop up with satin finish? If I decide to use 4 coats. Is it making more dull or look better?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 days ago

    Supra is good. Supra AT is better. If, the finish cracks and peel. It is a installer issue, not a product issue. I believe the gloss level in satin are equal. I maybe incorrect. Would need to check Loba's TDS. More coatings will look more plastic. It will increase the shine.

  • fsg89
    Original Author
    2 days ago
    last modified: 2 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    4 coats look more plastic if I use Supra at?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 days ago
    last modified: 2 days ago

    4 coats look more plastic with all polyurethane systems. It’s a film building system.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    2 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    I’m worry. What should I do? Three coats is better? I am planning to have this on first floor. I can’t picture how plastic look? Does it look horrible?

  • PRO
    G & S Floor Service
    2 days ago
    last modified: 2 days ago

    The image I posted with Nordic seal is two coats of poly. That is pretty close to a plastic look.

    if, the sanding is not flat and smooth. You won’t have nothing to worry about. The flaws will stand out.

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  • fsg89
    Original Author
    2 days ago

    @G & S Floor Service


    do you know which better brand water based with no plastic look and resist scratches?