There's no spin at all when the problem occurs? Or it spins but not at proper/full RPM?

Clutch assembly = P/N 285785?

Neutral drain functions properly?

Could be a problem with the spin gear inside the transmission. A way to confirm that is observe that the metal clutch bell (the spin gear drives it and the clutch lining fits into it) is rotating when the problem is happening ... which requires that you run the machine with the cabinet removed and the lid switch bypassed so you can see the mechanism ... and catch it when spin is failing.

Yes, used clutch kit 285785. We washed a load of towels today with the washer set on the Heavy fabric setting. It was spinning just fine for the entire and extra rinse cycle. So maybe that was the problem... that she had it on the Light fabric setting previously.

Assuming you have a two-speed machine, high spin speed is 640 RPM, low spin is 425. Low speed is primarily to reduce compression/wrinkling of synthetic/delicate fabrics. There's some difference in extraction but not as much as you may expect. Any load absolutely should not be either dripping wet or much hand-squeezable dripping on low spin.

Also, if you're referring to Heavy and Light designations on the timer cycles, that affects only agitation time in the wash period. The rest of the cycle after the wash period functions the same either way.

A fabric/speed control separate from the timer does affect agitate and spin speed independent of the wash time / timer setting.

So upon further investigation, it seems we're still having a problem with the spin speed reaching sufficient RPMs to extract the water from the heavy clothes and towels. In other words, the basket IS spinning the heavy loads, but it's not spinning fast enough. At the end of the cycle, you can still wring water out of the heavy clothes and towels, so they have to be spun again to get the dry enough to put into the clothes dryer. It seems like something is throttling the speed or something is slipping and not allowing the basket to achieve full RPM.

BTW - This Whirlpool washer DOES have a separate Fabric Selector switch with about 6 different agitate/spin settings. That switch is separate from the large rotary dial for the timer.

When the washer is empty and I set the timer dial to Spin and Fabric selector to Heavy, it spins like a fan (high RPM). But under a full load of towels, it is about half, or less, of that empty speed.

Since I've replaced the "easy" items -- water pump, motor coupler, full clutch assembly, we're probably at the end of what I can repair. I don't have the mechanical skills to tear apart the transmission, nor do I want to spend a few hundred on a full transmission -- I would rather put that toward a new washer.

Is there something "easy" that I'm overlooking? Thanks for all the help so far.

dadoes is the expert, while he's pondering the issue I'll chip in with a likely motor going bad. Much easier to replace than the transmission.

This is assuming there are no squealing/grinding/metallic noises, and no abrupt banging while the drum is spinning...those would point to a bearing or transmission issue.

Hello - thanks again for all the comments and help.

I used this kit from Amazon to replace all of the following...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VV9N471/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the clutch band/spring is correct - in the kit, the spring/band was pre-assembled in the bell housing.

I'm certain I assembled the clips, spacer, etc., per watching videos on YouTube, plus I kept track of the order I took the old parts off and then put the new on in the reverse order.

I replaced the water pump in case a sock or something had gotten down there. The old one looked visually OK, but I thought I would just replace it while it was all apart.

I also replaced the motor coupling and rubber block.

It's possible some grease is down in that area. I notices when I pulled the trans/agitator shaft, it has some light grease on it, so I very lightly regreased it before sliding it back in. Maybe that got hot and ran down into the clutch area?

I just ordered the heavy-duty 6-pad clutch. I'll install it on Monday and see what that does.

Thanks again.

That parts kit apparently is a substitution, not Whirlpool FSP (Factory Specification Parts, although those may not be what they once were in these days of declining quality all-around).

Couplers and pumps don't need to be replaced unless there's an obvious problem ... coupler loose on the shaft or broken/cracked, pump leaking or jammed/worn ... although those can be done if desired as insurance on future failure. Water seeping at the pump hub seal over time will rust the motor shaft.

Grease on the agitator shaft is OK but lubrication of the bearings is turbine or other good oil. The spin bearings are inside the tub support centerpost. Agitator shaft bearings are inside the spin tube.

Presumably you didn't pull the basket drive/brake (which would require removing the spanner nut, basket, and basket drive block)?

Disassembly to install the alternate spin clutch will provide examination if there's oil or grease on the pads or bell.

Was the original clutch band showing wear?

Note ... if the spin brake is too aggressive, violently jerking the tub, it's OK to smear a bit of grease in the brake housing to reduce the grab.

Well, A Whirlpool washer won't agitate for a variety of reasons. The following is a list of the most common problems and quick troubleshooting steps to resolve them. As a technician myself, I found these below common problems for the washer not spinning.

1. Inspect Drain Hose
2. Check Shift Actuator
3. Defective Lid Switch
4. Defective Drain Valve
5. Defective Float Switch
6. Check Engine Noise
7. Defective Drive Belt

Go through this checklist to inspect any problem. I am sure you will find one of the above mentioned reasons to be the root cause of your problem.

These all have simple troubleshooting steps, if you can do it yourself, that would be great. Otherwise, I would suggest to give call to your nearby professional plumber.

Let me know, if this helps you. Cheers!

Several of the points Jennei Tehanji lists above are wrong technical terms and/or don't apply to the mechanism in the (direct-drive) type of machine discussed in this 2-years-old thread.