Island Hidden storage? Explain. 4 by 4 pantry? Mock that up to show how you are suggesting it Will function. The opening of windows by a gas flame is not the most wise. It’s a nice long wall / what about a double casement and move stove and hood away from that ?

If you have a long narrow kitchen, that looks like a practical layout for the major appliances. Under the windows is there a countertop flanking the cooktop, so when you have a pot of hot soup you can set it down next to the cooktop? Does your local building code specify minimum countertop on each side of the cooktop? Does your local building code permit cooktop that close to the windows? Also, be prepared to clean the windows of the grease splatter from the cooktop. Because the sink and DW are in the island without overhead cabinets, where will you conveniently store the dishes and glasses close to the DW? With the fridge on one side of the kitchen and the pantry on the opposite side, where will your meal prep counter be and will it provide enough uninterrupted counter space for you? Where will the microwave go? If the shelves are U or L shaped, then a 4 ft deep pantry is fine, but it will be frustrating if the shelf is more than 18”-24” deep to see and reach things at the back of the pantry.

Windows...Don't butt the windows up against the range hood. Your hood should be at least 6" wider than the range/cooktop and then a few inches on either side of the hood b/w the hood and window.

Cooktop wall...if you plan to put the cooktop/range close to windows, consider a deeper counter to give you more space b/w the cooktop/range and windows to reduce grease splattering and the inevitable window cleaning that will be needed. Personally, I'd like to see at least 24" b/w the window and the cooktop/range (which would be 21" b/w the hood and window, if the hood is 6" wider than the cooktop/range). It looks like you already did increase the depth of the counters, but in case you didn't, I thought I'd suggest it.

Refrigerator...The refrigerator will not work where you have it. Unless the refrigerator is a true built-in, the doors must extend out past all adjacent items (walls, cabinets, counters, etc.) OR you need 6" to 12" b/w the refrigerator & deeper adjacent item (amount needed depends on how deep the deeper item is). In this case, I think 6" to 9" will probably be sufficient. (Even with true built-ins, a bit space is needed b/w deeper items and the refrigerator, more if they they have deep handles.)

Wall oven(s)…given the small size of your Kitchen and limited countertop, I suggest getting a range, not a cooktop + wall oven(s). (Don't put a wall oven under the counter unless you are very short and have no back (or other) issues. A wall oven mounted under the counter is much lower to the ground than an oven in a range -- usually the oven door just clears the floor when open.)

Pantry...is it supposed to be a reach-in/step-in pantry? I guess it might work if you have a narrow door and shallow shelves (no more than 12") on only two sides. 12" deep shelves are the "sweet spot" for pantry storage, so the shallow shelves aren't an issue.

Island...

Work zones in the island...You have both your Cleanup Zone (DW side of the sink) and Prep Zone (non-DW side of the sink) in the island. However, you don't appear to have very much counterspace where you need it most in the Prep Zone. Try for at least 42" of uninterrupted counter space with no DW in the way for the Prep Zone. I suggest moving the DW to the other side of the sink and move it to the end. Then the sink, then the cabs/counters. If there's more than 42", you could put a bit more on the DW side or give yourself a bigger prep space.

At 11' (132") wide, I think you could do something like 21" cab + 24" DW + 36" sink + 18" trash pullout + 30" cabinet = 129", then 1.5" counter overhang on each end (1.5" + 1.5") = 132"

Seating at island...

* Linear space...for four seats, you need at least 24" of linear space per seat. At 11' you should be able to seat 5. However, with that many seats, I think I'd rather have them along at least two sides -- that's much more conducive to conversation, etc. Straight-line seating is like eating at a diner with strangers and choosing the counter so you don't have to look at those sitting next to you. That's not normally what people are aiming for in a home!

* Overhang...there should be at least 15" of clear leg/knee space per seat. I don't know if that's what you have, but if not, deepen the island to get it.

* Hidden storage...do you mean cabinets under the overhang? If so, keep them shallow as they will be difficult to access from under an overhang.

Overall, I would consider sizing the island such that you could fit one seat on each of the short ends of the island and then three along the long side b/w the end seats.

Add some greenery.

Add additional seating to your little kitchen.

Introduce pendant lights or striking light apparatuses.

Get overly coordinated inside your cupboards.

Introduce a drifting table.

Keep your materials strong.

I just wrote a post which Houzz zapped (seems to happen more often that not, these days), so if it ever shows up, I apologize for the duplicate.

You have a completely open concept layout, then you want to stick a deeper pantry in the work aisle? IMO, a wider pantry with roll-out tray shelves would be better, and will make everything stored in it accessible. You could make the bottom sections drawers with shelves above. If you move the left DR window over in line with the elevator door, you can add that space to the pantry. I agree with Buehl on most of the other issues--I'd use a wider hood to help capture grease and steam, and make the windows wider.

Here's a version with extra storage on the ends of the island, rather than the seats she drew. If you have the cabinets open to the sides or back of the island, that will be more convenient than all extra cabinets opening under the seating overhang. I drew the 18 x 27" cabinets as door cabs, since all the bases in the work aisle should be drawers. The 18" could also be drawer bases which open to the back (see second illustration). If you want extra seats, you could omit the 18" cabinets on the FR side and use legs for support. The island seems to be compressed from the original layout--if the 11'1"+ is based on the largest slab you can get without a seam, the side overhangs can be only 3/4". I based the 11'2" length on 11' of cabinetry and 1" side overhangs. If you can add 6" back, the 18" cabinet beside the trash pull-out could go up to 24", which would also give you 6" more prep space.

It appears that the garage and main entrance are at ground level and I assume there are other bedrooms on that level. If the whole kitchen layout is flipped, the fridge would be more accessible to the DR, and to anyone coming from the basement or master BR. It would also eliminate the issue with the fridge door and stub wall; however, that puts the DW and dish storage farther from the DR.

Will there be an exterior door on this level?