The "leg" tiles will be full-size. The tile at the corner of the tub is cut in an L shape. If the tub has a round corner, then the tile will also be rounded to follow the contour of the tub.

Don't GO to the floor. there is no need the tub has a deck. End the tile at the deck front edge. NO LEGS. Is there a reason you need them? Show the actual space

Note the illegal/ not to CODE lights in BOTH photos...............: (

Yes, there is a sliver in the second, and do NOT cut the tiles to half size. Use a non contrasting grout

Try widening the grout and see if you can eliminate, or put the sliver at the BOTTOM.

@catbuilder thanks

@JAN MOYER thank you...

I extended the CBU a few inches outside the wet area, to the floor because I was told that was safer and could help prevent a failure later on. At this point I don't think painting that area of the CBU and trying to blend it with the rest of the bathroom drywall would look right.

These are white tiles and I was planning to use a light gray grout.

My grout lines are already at 1/8 in this layout (the tile has a lug and I added a 1/16 spacer). I was warned not to use 1/16 grout lines on this so I am hesitant to just use the built in lugs although that would solve the problem. I could also go to 3/16 grout lines but is that too fat for a tub wall?

Here's a photo of the space. The seams have been thinsetted, this photo was taken before that was done.

What is that board ?

hardibacker

The other option I was thinking of was to do an accent row, probably at eye level, of glass mosaic tiles. That would elminate the top sliver problem.

I have watched some videos of using Ditra to build the glass up to the width of the subway tile so that it is flush with rest of tile...however I am hesitant to do an accent strip because if it goes wrong it will be *very* noticeable on the wall. The videos don't make it look too hard to do but of course some things look deceptively easy when you watch someone else do them, especially if they are an expert.

What is your opinion on this, should an amateur attempt an accent row or go for a simpler solution?

Are you just tiling the alcove, or also the walls of the bathroom? Are you using bullnose for the edges? Are you doing wood or tile baseboards? In my older alcove tubs, one ends at the deck, and the other has bullnose that goes to the floor while the field tile stays above the deck.

@jslazart 1) just the alcove 2) yes bullnose 3) wood baseboards

You have subway tiles with built in lugs- use those. Don’t add spacers too. The integrated lugs will be more accurate.

@HALLETT & Co.

Thanks. Only problem is these are Daltile (the "Restore" line you can get at Home Depot). I read on another forum that the lugs on these Daltile don't give enough space for the grout to adhere properly because of the way the tiles are beveled? However Daltile recommends using the lugs. As usual I'm left flummoxed by contradictory advice. Been trying to search the web researching this Daltile issue but haven't found much.

And my second issue is that I wanted to use a gray grout and I read that any errors or warpage of the tiles/walls on a darker grout will be very obvious on 1/16 spacing.

John:

There are (24) 1/32" in 3/4 of an inch. Make your grout lines 1/32" wider over 24 rows and your 3/4" disappears unnoticeably.

No possible WAY would I use that much beveled tile !! Return it. Get something simpler. It will be a busy mess, and is unnecessary. Get a pro in there for an install, and don't go to the ceiling, unless this will function as a shower //tub. .

You're at overkill, and beveled tile faded away, even in kitchens....quite a while ago. If you insist on keeping? White grout to disappear. The bevel and grout in contrast will double the BUSY BUSY : )

@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thanks!

I think I screwed up on the .75 number I gave here though...that was off the top of my head. There is a small variance in the ceiling of about 1/4 as you go around the tub area. I think the "sliver" was more like between 7/8 of an inch and 1 1/8 of an inch depending on where you are on the ceiling...(unfortunately I am not over at that that house right now so I can't do a quick re-measuring). So I don't think adding 1/32 would be enough to get rid of the sliver.

Anyway it seems to me, after reading these helpful replies that my choices are to either go with a 3/16 grout line and the gray grout, or just use the 1/16 lugs and a white grout.

Best choice is return the tile. You are going to hate it. ........I can virtually promise that outcome. But alas.....come back when you do : )

To the ceiling ??? uh................maybe not

DELTA "RESTORE below

@JAN MOYER thanks but...those don't look anything like the tiles I bought. I've examined every piece (both to remove the bar code sticker and to check for warpage) and the tiles seem pretty consistent in quality. I've only had to remove a handful for warping. This is the tile I bought:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daltile-Restore-3-in-x-12-in-Ceramic-Bright-White-Subway-Tile-360-sq-ft-pallet-RE15312HDPL1P2/305471399

Could you clarify what you think the problem is with these? Are you sure you don't have them mixed up with a different tile line?

I am not talking about quality or warp. I am saying...............a bevel adds busyness. A newer look, would be a bit larger subway as well. This is especially true over a large span to the ceiling.

I am ( sorry if it is blunt) saying I would strongly advise a different choice of tile, altogether.

A 4 x12 is wonderful..........with a pale contrasting grout, as well.

Note the 1/3 offset intsall too. Very NICE.

@JAN MOYER I missed your first post before I replied, sorry...these are *not* beveled tile.

The person who was describing the problem of grouting (using the lugs) used the word bevel and I repeated it...sorry for the confusion.

I do agree that dark grout with beveled tile probably wouldn't look good.

SEE just above your post. Seems there are several delta "restore" Always use a picture or LINK. " . I'd still change your 50/50 install sketch .....as just above

thanks I have researched the 1/2 vs. 1/3 offset issue already and not too concerned about lippage. From what I've learned 12 inches is right on the border of where you should switch to 1/3, but still acceptable for 1/2.

Who said LIPPAGE? It's a better LOOK.

thanks but I prefer the 50% offset. To each his own.

While we are here...what is the real story with 1/16 grout lines on wall tile?

The manufacturers seem to recommend them, but then I've heard pros say that you should not use them at all, or that you should only use them with a white grout (assuming your tile is white) because the darker colors will show off mistakes. Then I've seen homeowners posting who are deadset on using 1/16 because they want a "seamless" look?

Certainly no expert here, but note that Home Depot's website show the tile set at 1/3 offset. I would check install directions carefully. Also, no one has yet mentioned waterproofing. What are your waterproofing plans?

"thanks but I prefer the 50% offset. To each his own."

Were you doing a kitchen backsplash ? Okay! You are not doing that.

Sort of wonder why you are asking anyone : ) Have at it.

Everyone BELIEVES they will love something! Happens al ot, the surprises, right here on this site.

@JAN MOYER

"Sort of wonder why you are asking anyone : ) Have at it."

Actually I never "asked" about the offset pattern, that wasn't even the topic of this thread.

I also didn't ask about waterproofing (Redgard. And no I'm not switching to some other product at this stage or tearing out the CBU because someone on here doesn't approve of Redgard--can't do that sorry) but someone else tried to divert the thread to that subject, for whatever reason.

@Beth H. : Thanks Beth, hope you are doing well in these strange times...

No there is no vapor barrier behind the CBU. I researched Redgard heavily and practiced applying it on a scrap piece of Hardie to get the hang of the thicknesses needed, etc.

I don't have anything against white grout but the reason I would prefer gray is because this place is going to be tenant-occupied and a darker grout would cut down on stains and discoloration. I would seal the white grout if I used it but sealing doesn't last forever.

If I did use a white grout would it be worth trying an epoxy grout rather than cementious, for something more durable? I am not sure whether it's worth attemping because I've read some horror stories about these specialty grouts here and elsewhere--difficult to work with, and problems later on. But I don't know if those horror stories were due to user error, or the product.

I was planning on using wood baseboard trim on the floor, not tile trim. The current flooring is going to be covered over with a vinyl plank (haven't decided what brand or color yet)

you could go w/a light gray grout. (what tile are you using on the floor? I'd go w/a 24x24 size. less grout)

Epoxy grout can be tricky, as well as the urethane based grouts.

(research all of them over at JohnBridge Tile forum)

I used the Mapei FlexColor CQ grout w/mine, in the Warm Gray

If you will be doing it yourself, make sure you watch the video Mapei posted on how to grout and wipe clean. it has to be done in small sections, rapidly wiping as you go (and using very little water on the sponge) If not, it leaves a residue that takes hours to remove. Ask me how I know.

The Flexcolor grout has all of the stain resistant qualities.

Mapei has some nice gray colors. Silver or Gray might work for you

remember, the darker the grout, the better your cuts must be on the tile work. and the better your grout cleanup must be.

Or, the cement based grouts can be used w/a good sealer applied afterward.

Darker colors will turn lighter w/hard water deposits. a medium gray should be fine.

baseboard trim you want is fine too.

the bane of cement based grouts are bleach cleaners. bleach pits the grout and invites more grime to adhere.

@Beth H. :thanks...I am going to put luxury vinyl plank over the floor later. Not tile.

Did you do the Mapei grouting yourself, or pay someone to do it?

lets just say I gave the guys explicit instructions. the tile in the shower was done right. 2 guys, one grouted, the other wiped and cleaned right behind him.

the marble tile outside the shower on the floor? was another guy. he didn't listen to me. he did it like regular grout. one man. I told him to only do one sections and clean up within 15 mins. he figured he knew more than I. when he finished, I saw all of the dried residue.

You know how you have to remove it? (it was honed marble tile) Goo Gone. and elbow grease. for 2 solid hours I cussed out that guy while I scrubbed off every last bit of that dried grout.

What trim pieces will you be using? You can pretty easily avoid having a sliver by using some combination of the following pieces:

• chair rail (2 x 6)
• quarter round (1 x 6)
• jolly (1/2 x 12)
• bullnose (2 x 6)
• bullnose corner (2 x 2)

@Beth H. : that sounds like a real pain!

@Sammy thanks but I don't think I'm going to need trim to hide a gap now. That photo that Beth posted (the one with the blue painting on the left side of wall) shows what @catbuilder meant by the "leg" tile curving and becoming a full tile as it goes down the leg. I couldn't picture what he or she was talking about until I saw that photo.

Use unsanded grout and the 1/16” joint will be fine and according to your math solves the problem at the top. I would NOT use epoxy grout if you’ve never used it. I would use the lightest grey available or just plain white (I have rentals and they all have white grout)

@HALLETT & Co. thanks...it's a relief to know I don't have to do an accent strip in the shower to fix this problem because I really do not have to time at this point to add a new element to this project.