You did a good job on the chart. However, the cheap pH meters are basically useless. A soil test or using pH strips are more accurate. I would also apply the lime and incorporate it into the soil at the beginning to give it time to react. Tomatoes are pretty forgiving of low pH.

The timing of planting on the seedlings will vary depending on location. In the far north or deep south, you would want to start your seedlings 6 to 8 weeks before last freeze. Then, if you have a late frost you can cover the tomatoes. If you wait 2 weeks past freeze date the heat will kill the tomatoes in the deep south and fall frost will kill them in the far north.

The kind of fertilizer will vary. However, a 3:1:2 or 4:1:2 ratio of N,P,K is the plant will use. In most places phosphorous will not be needed.

I would recommend a heat mat for seed starting -- probably the easiest way to control temperature, and ensure reliable and fast germination (usually within a week for me).

As Gary mentioned, timing for folks in other climates is different. I already started my tomatoes and plan on taking them out as soon as possible, even though it won't be warm enough. I will have to keep them covered at night. But the plants will be cut down before the heat sets in around the 4th of July, so I don't have much time to get a decent harvest (they will grow again after Labor Day).

Everything looked pretty good instruction wise but near the end where it says to remove the lower leaves from the plants is new to me. I know about disease spreading due to soil contamination (rain splattering) on the lower leafs but I've only removed lower leaves which were already showing signs of disease. I may experiment this year with this idea to remove the lower leaves before they show signs of disease to see if that helps extend the plant's life span.

So how it goes?

the instruction are rather crude and need lots changes

also text is tough to read.