I'd do my very best to keep the tub but have it cleaned, and then cleaned some more! I'd want to try and keep it because it's original and on the bigger side. A good size for bathing all the kiddos in! Install a new vent that actually takes the moisture out of the air and I'd probably go for new tile in lieu of re-painting the existing tile. Possibly install some sound proof insulation in the one wall that is adjacent to the baby room. Last but certainly not least....figure out storage! Storage! STORAGE! Where do we put 5 (soon to be 6) towels? Maybe put recessed storage between the studs? That's all! :-)

I don't think the design elements will be a problem. What the ppl here are lacking is information and direction. They need a layout of the house, more pics and description of specific rooms. I see your working on the bathroom. How big is it, where are the windows, do you want a shower, linen storage, tile on walls and floor or is vinyl your budget, what colors are you thinking of, wall hung vanities? The items you see at the Big Box Stores are by far the least expensive and usually any thing different cost (exponentially) more. There are ways to put a twist on things that make your home unique and affordable. What is your skill level. The mechanicals are a major task and there is always an issue of budget. Designers will pitch in once they understand and see what you want. Good luck to you!

@Jenn....below is a copy of the response I received off of gardenweb.com. I am posting it here as it maybe helpful to others who view this thread....... Gardenweb Post Wolf baffled hoods are of the same general design as Prestige and Modern Aire baffled hoods. One might say that they are all an attempt at performing the function of commercial hoods with the efficiency of commercial hoods while achieving a higher level of aesthetic design. As such, they incorporate various trade-offs that for the most part are compatible with residential use. Choosing between them would be a matter of appearance and cost. I am quite satisfied with my Wolf hood (built for Wolf to their spec by Independent ca. 2007). I think it is safe to write that generally this forum's members suggest manufacturers such as Modern Aire that can provide tailor-made configurations when the poster has a need that isn't met by a stock hood design. Otherwise, many different hoods provide a variety of features (including lower cost than the high-end) and are often recommended for particular applications. I do not recommend specific manufacturers' hoods that I've never owned. A roof blower assembly and an in-line silencer is equivalent in function to an in-line blower assembly and in-line silencer. The silencer needed is determined by the duct size. An LD10 is for 10-inch ducts. You may only need an LD8 or whatever goes with the duct size needed by your hood and blower. If you want to avoid too much design detail, choose the largest Wolf blower that is recommended by them (at the back of their hood brochure) to go with your selected hood. Alternatively, having chosen the hood (and I"d recommend it be wider than the cooktop by at least six inches if it can fit and as deep as tolerable), calculate the aperture area (the inside capture area not the outside of the hood), convert to square feet, multiply by 90 cfm/sq. ft., further multiply by 1.5 because it won't be running at zero static pressure, and select a blower that is rated (at zero static pressure) near that resulting flow rate. (There aremake-up air issues that come into play that you can find in topics here, or ask about when your selection is tentatively made.) The Wolf hood probably has a damper. A down-slope roof blower assembly made by Wolf (actually, probably for them by Broan), or Abbaka, or Broan will have a damper. If an in-line blower is used, than a damper will be needed on the roof side, as well as a suitable roof cap for the ducting. For most, the roof blower is the simplest solution because it provides all three elements. Special cases arise if one is subject to very deep roof snow. Note that selecting a blower and hood from the same manufacturer will assure that the fan control in the hood is compatible with the blower. This may not be the lowest cost approach if your time is free, but it moves the engineering to the supplier. It is my observation that those here that have built a configuration based on a remote blower, in-line silencer, and non-blower hood, have concluded that it is quietest for a given flow rate/hood size. We rarely have any way of direct comparison to make an unqualified assertion. Several years ago, a member of this forum had two houses, one with a Vent-a-hood (of that time) and one with the configuration above, and made sound measurements with the same sound meter in the same way and found the Vent-a-Hood to be significantly noisier. I think this member was clinresga. We have no way of knowing what the result would have been if there were no silencer. You may be able to find the threads. Since then it is possible that VAH have modified their design for lower noise, but since blade tip turbulence is the dominant noise, and the VAH puts that right at the cooks ear, it would be hard to beat a silenced remote fan, where the remaining noise is baffle turbulence noise. Baffle noise could also vary with manufacturers' designs, so it is doubly hard to compare unheard baffle designs with each other or with the leading configuration competitor VAH's designs. Further complicating this is that the turbulence is proportional to blade size and tip velocity, so if room allows, a larger slower fan could be used and be very quiet. Going too far in this direction is not practical to fit, but as Admiral Rickover once said: "The devil is in the details ...."

what a horrible place to live lol! i would build a pergola, and a seating area, maybe bbq zone and seating, or bar, the pergola would help distract from the house that's right there...........