Insulation: Kitchen reno soffit removal and how to fix?

5 years ago

Hello all. I tore out the soffit this weekend and the blown in insulation fell out during this process. Im thinking about adding R-30 Unfaced Fiberglass Insulation to the ceiling and some foam insulation boards to the wall above the sink.

Am I correct to get unfaced since the blown in insulation doesn't having backing to it anyway? Everytime I look more insulation is falling out and its pretty much empty space now.

Will the insulation rolls sit up there before the drywall guy fixes the ceiling or does it get fastened in a way?

Thanks for your help!

Featured Answer

formulaross20

5 years ago

How much clearance for ventilation? 1" is plenty, have seen this done on This Old House all the way to the peak if necessary. Styrofoam baffles stapled in place would let you push insulation up against the baffle/decking if this would be easier. I have done stacked 3-1/2" layers with the layers stepped back to maintain clearance at the eves.

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Comments (6)

mike_home
5 years ago
I can't think of a reason why you should not install faced fiberglass. You should have a moisture barrier even if the old insulation did not. If you cut the batt insulation so it is a tight fit it should stay in place. If there is an attic above you could install the insulation from above after the sheetrock is installed. This may be a good time to add additional insulation to the whole attic.

If not you could staple the paper face to the studs. For the foam board you may be able to nail fasteners into the exterior sheathing. If that is not practical then you could use construction glue.
formulaross20
5 years ago
The facing on insulation should only go against the interior surface, but the facing is only effective if it is a near-perfect installation. With your strapping running perpendicular to the joists, you will have many installation issues, and IMO, I wouldn't bother with the headache of installing faced insulation. Also, along the outside wall, and very dependent on your roof pitch, the thickness of R-30 batts may extend up to the roof decking and block the ventilation path at the eaves, you may need to go thinner there. Personally, I'm not fond of batt insulation in the attic, I prefer blown insulation, and cellulose at that. .
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Kyle
Original Author
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Thanks for both comments.

There is an attic but its really really hard to get to in this part of the house. The eves do start at 8" and then go up. 2ft and almost 3 ft in some parts.

@formulaross20 How much space/clearance do you need for ventilation? R-30 is 10" thick. Can you tear some away at the 8" space in the attic?

the drywall guy said to get either faced on non faced insulation so I got unfaced. Will install tonight but can exchange because I need to go back and get something else before 8AM tomorrow when the guy returns.

Yes, I would prefer also to get blown in insulation as well - Florida heat.. That is another project that will wait but trying to replace what has fallen during this reno.
Kyle
Original Author
5 years ago
@formulaross20 - thanks. One additional question if the eves are only 8" or maybe 6" in one section is it possible to trim the insulation thickness?

by Styrofoam baffles are you talking about extra Styrofoam/foam board Insulation sheets that come in 4x8?
formulaross20
5 years ago
Its possible to trim the insulation for clearance, but installing foam baffles guarantees the necessary clearance and allows blown insulation to completely fill the area:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ADO-Products-Durovent-23-1-2-in-x-46-in-Rafter-Vent-with-Built-In-Baffle-10-Ctn-UDVB234610/202389935