Care is need, considering planned ingestion. Micronized Eau de Agua in the 16 oz. spray bottle is effective for foliar hydration on those hot, low humidity days. Keep in mind that several natural products are deadly. Think Socrates.

When you say “they get sick” what exactly do you mean? If they get aphids a strong water spray will help. If you are in a warm humid area with blackspot you have already discovered what I did. Natural sprays do not work.

Yeah, it depends. Water can work with some minor insect problems. Water with a bit of soap in it for other insect issues, washed off immediately afterward.

For some fungal problems, 1 - 2 tsp baking soda in 1 gal water with 1 tsp soap also in the mix can help defeat them. But the reliability is modest at best and whether you consider this "natural" is up to you (I do since baking soda is edible, but...)

Judging by the photos the OP has shown on other posts the problems are more radical than aphids or even blackspot. Most of the pictures show very unhealthy or dead roses pruned down to the base with no leaves or branches. Without knowing what is causing the decline of the plants one can’t choose a treatment. Are you using the hips or the petals to make jam? Either way the nearer you can get to old or species roses the better the flavour is likely to be and the less disease prone the roses. Something like R rugosa, for example. For the right kinds of roses ‘getting sick’ shouldn’t be normal.

Spinosad spray (most economical is to get a concentrate that is mixed with water before use) is organic gardening compatible spray that kills on contact and over time, but must be sprayed in the evening after the bees go to bed. It can kill bees if they touch wet spray, once it dries then it won’t harm the bees. It needs to be reapplied every 2-3 weeks throughout the growing season. You need to spray underneath the leaves too and this is easily done with a pump sprayer. I use Jack’s DeadBug brand Spinosad and a Chapin International - 2014 1-Gallon Handheld Mosquito Sprayer because it expels a nice fine fogging mist and the wand allows you to easily spray underneath leaves.

Also probably best to use several organic pesticides in rotation so you don’t cause the pests on your property to develop resistance to the spray. Here is what they do on the organic farm Grace Rose Farm:
https://www.gracerosefarm.com/blogs/news/taking-on-thrips-naturally

I actually only use spinosad on my buddleja bush and kumquat. For my roses I let the beneficial insects do the work, but I have never had a bad thrips infestation and if I did I would use spinosad every 2 weeks for 3 sprayings and then stop to let beneficial insects come back and then see if a balance could be maintained. Some people plant a specific pepper plant that makes lots of flower pollen for feeding the predator thrips that eat the bad thrips. The predators eat a diet of pollen and thrips and spider mites. The pollen from the pepper plant helps keep the predator population high in your garden so they are always around to feast on the bad bugs. But spinosad kills good and bad bugs so keep that in mind.
https://projects.sare.org/sare_project/gs10-089/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/thrips-predator-thripex/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/thrips-control/

Having seen the OPs pictures of their roses in other posts, I don’t think pests are the problem.