Size the circuit wire to use 50 amps. And use a 30 amp breaker and plug. You may want to upgrade to induction. Always keep in mind the future. You won’t have to run new wire. Just change a breaker and a plug.

agree with Malloy above. The parts costs are similar no matter what you buy. It is really labor and that is what it is no matter what you install

Rerunning a wire is generally expensive. Changing plus is easy. I see that it is a 36 inch, not a lot of induction 36 but who knows in the future

I don't understand the reasoning above. Most electric ranges require a 50 amp circuit. So why not future-proof the kitchen range circuit by installing 50 amp breakers, #6 gauge cable, and a 50 amp, 4-prong outlet? Attach a 4-wire range cord to this range and you're good to go and your kitchen is ready for any range someone decides to install in the future.

How to Wire a 120/240-Volt Outlet for an Electric Range

Thanks for the insight. I did just spend 10k+ on a new range, we're not changing, and enjoy cooking with gas. If we use a 50 amp wire to the panel, we should still be using a 30 amp receptacle, and cord to the range, correct?

Edit: posted this before I saw WDC's reply. Yeah it seems to make sense that if we would wire it for 50 amp, just get a 50 amp receptacle, breaker, cord, etc.

Thanks

I don't see any 30 amp, 4-prong range cables; they all have 3 prongs. The 30-amp 4-prong outlets and 50-amp 4-prong outlets are different. Install a 50-amp outlet and use a matching 50-amp cable.

The range specs allow you to use a 30 amp cable so the range can be connected to an old 3-prong outlet.

Thanks, I'll do the 50 amp as everyone mentioned. Can you link me what 6/4 wire I should be running to the panel? I'm not particularly sure what may or may not be needed. Most of what I see on the web is SOOW which can be used outdoor also and it is likely inflating the price, or maybe not and that is what I need.

Thanks again

SOOW is cordage, not cable. It is not to be used to run from the panel to the receptacle. Type AC, MC or NM-B is what you want to look for. You may need to an electrical supply rather than a big-box.

You can’t put a 50’amp breaker on a circuit for a product that requires a 30 amp circuit. It doesn’t provide proper over current protection. Electrical 101.

As long as the plug and the breaker match, you can have the 6 gauge wire in the wall just fine. The breaker has to match the appliance requirements though. Then it trips appropriately if the range has an issue. If it’s protected by a too large breaker, you just created a fire.

I agree with the others. It's easier to run the 6 gauge wire now so you can easily switch to a 50amp range later. It's a bit more now, maybe a couple hundred more than the 30 amp wire? It's one of the costs of enjoying a 36” range.

Please buy 50 feet at a minimum if that’s what your electrician wants. The cable is very thick and you need to make wide loops to turn corners and there’s a bit of slack in the cable when you run it through the wall studs. For the electrical inspection, about 3 feet of extra cable was left dangling in front of my electrical panel. It looks like most of it was used to create the web of wires in side the panel. You don’t want to run short and find you need to add an accessible junction box somewhere behind your cabinets.

I have 6/3 gauge wire NMD-90 (4 wires: red, white, black and a ground) for the range. Also, we ran a 12/2 cable for the hood range and outlet behind the stove, right beside the stove plug. My all gas range needs a regular plug.

@User: "You can’t put a 50 amp breaker on a circuit for a product that requires a 30 amp circuit. It doesn’t provide proper over current protection. Electrical 101."

Rubbish. If that were true you couldn't use a 50 watt light bulb on a 15 amp circuit, or a 15 amp dishwasher on a 20 amp circuit, or a 1200 watt toaster on a 15 amp circuit.

https://braseelectrical.com/what-appliances-should-be-on-a-dedicated-circuit

Voltage is not amps. You don’t use a larger breaker than an appliance requires for the same reason you don’t put a penny into one of the old screw in fuses.

@ZoraAster: "Voltage is not amps. You don’t use a larger breaker than an appliance requires for the same reason you don’t put a penny into one of the old screw in fuses."

So by your logic I should always turn on all the burners and the oven so I don't have a "larger breaker than an appliance requires" when I'm using it. And I'll be sure to never turn on the oven light by itself.

I do have an electrician doing the work. He said there is no issue using a 50 amp circuit even if the unit is only a 30 amp. As wdc said, you don't turn on every piece of electrical equipment on a circuit every time you need to power one of the items on that circuit. My electrician agrees as well.

So then why can we have a lamp plugged into a 15 amp plug? Not being facetious, generally curious as I'm not an electrician.

Yes he is a licensed electrician, and has done all of the electrical work at my house since I moved in 1.5 years ago.

Thanks, but then how does the breaker flip if my little light decides to catch fire or something? Maybe it would for some reason be pulling more than 15 amps in this case causing it to shut down?

My guess is that if you have an appliance rated at 30 Amps plugged into a circuit with a 50 Amp breaker, that's OK, but if it's hard-wired, then the breaker must be 30 Amp. Is that correct?

OK, I guess the key word is "dedicated". You are saying that you can't put a 30A device on a 50A circuit, right? I was assuming that dedicated meant hardwired; if it's plugged in, then you could unplug it and plug in something else (as long as its requirements didn't EXCEED the capability of the circuit. How about two high-current devices on the same circuit (with the appropriate ampacity)?

Fieri, Of course I wouldn't use two high-wattage appliances on the same circuit unless that circuit was designed for the combined load.

Dedicated with regards to ranges/stoves and electric dryers means the circuit serves only that one appliance. Of course you can use 40 or 50 amp wiring and matching 40 or 50 rated receptacle outlet for your 30 amp range but the circuit breaker should match it's 30 amp rating. To avoid any further quibbling in this regard contact your city's electrical inspector for the official explanation.

Please don't confuse the code for 15 and 20 amp circuits with what applies to higher amperage circuits. Requirements are often much different.

Electrical code for higher amperage circuits specifies receptacle types, use of 3 wire vs. 4 wire circuits, special rules for devices with electrical motors, special rules for continuous use devices vs. intermittent, a list of devices that require dedicated circuits, etc. For these higher amperage circuits you need to pull a permit, use a qualified electrician, and then have it inspected. Its not the time to be guessing at the right solution.