I would stake it for a season.

yes.. more of a splint .. than some artistic carl waleda system ..

when the next thunderstorm rolls thru with shear winds.. it will snap the canopy right off ...

last november.. i might suggest to the nursery that they do it ...

ken

If it's wiggling at the base now, double stake it for 12-18 months. Don't try to pull it upright with the stakes...just hold it in whatever position it is now. You want to give it a chance to extend it's roots solidly into the surrounding soil and not have those tender roots damaged every time there is a strong wind. On the same note, a heavy downpour and strong wind could put it diagonal so I wouldn't procrastinate.

All this is moot if the nursery has some sort of warranty program in place and they'll fix it/replace it if it does go for a permanent lean.

Can you see the root flare?

tj

Ive made another call in to the nursery and sent them some photos. I think it does need some intervention at this point and I’d like them to do it. Tree looks healthy and I cannot see the root flare.

Another view:

If you cannot see the root flare, that's a possible problem. You should continue to clear away mulch & soil until you expose it because it's quite possible girdling roots are causing it to be loose.

I agree, planting too deep is a bad thing all in it's own.

Girdling roots is from being grown in a pot too long even if it was up-potted later.

I'd make sure all that was checked out before you give the nursery an approval for the tree.

Otherwise a few years down the road, those problems can manifest themselves and by then it's too late.

was the retaining brick there before planting.. or did you add it later.. and fill it in ... with more soil .. actually ending up too deep???

next time.. buy a smaller tree .. it will get over all the stress and outgrow a larger transplant in just a few years ... not to mention.. it will be cheaper ...

a tree should be no taller than its trunk will hold up .. and your trunk is perfect for a 4 foot tree .. not an 8 foot tree.. and therein lies your base problem ... its an instant gratification conundrum on some level ...

ken

The brick and soil was all in place before this tree was planted. And this was actually the smallest size this nursery (and others in my area) had. It is concerning though. I don’t want to lose it but I don’t want to stake it if not necessary.

The root flare should be visible, either at grade level or slightly above. Root systems need to breath but can't if the root flare is below grade.

The girdling may not be a problem if the tree was field grown (not grown in a pot), then balled and burlap. B & B tend to have extra soil on top of the ball that should be removed upon planting.

Also, wood mulch should be kept a few inches away from touching the trunk and in summertime, only be a couple of inches deep. Did I say root systems need to breath? :-)

Oh and newly planted trees should be staked. Stakes need to be a foot or so away from the trunk, say one on each side. Then use soft, stretchable material, like nylons, so there's some distance between the stakes and trunk. The ties should be about 2/3 ways up the trunk. That will keep thunderstorm winds from tipping the root ball in the ground and stretchable material helps keep the trunk from snapping in high wind and lets the tree grow accustomed to swaying in the wind. By next season, the roots should be established enough to remove the stakes.