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brandon_platt53

How is inground pool coping/border elevated? (photo attached)

5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago

First post here and I have a question I can't seem to find any info about online. A week ago, we had a pool company begin remodeling our inground pool. All they've done so far is remove the old coping and tiles. We have an existing concrete patio with terrible puddles, and the plan is to keep the patio and raise the coping about 2 inches to get the correct pitch for the new pavers, which will be laid on sand, to drain water. My question is how do they raise the border? Is it as simple as slapping 2 inches worth of mortar and simply laying the new coping on that, or is it more complicated requiring rebar etc? There's an area over the skimmer that looks like it'll break if you walk on it, which concerns me. I want them to do this right, but I don't know the exact process. Thanks, Brandon.

Comments (9)

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago



    Attached is a photo of what we're working with. I can provide any other photos. The top of the old coping sat just slightly higher than the concrete slab. The idea is to have the new coping raised and the future deck of pavers be flush with the coping.

  • 5 years ago


    Thank you for the reply, much appreciated. Hypothetically, would it be possible to build up the top of the pool with mortar to allow the new coping (12x6) to sit like this picture? The white tiles under the paver would represent the approx height we need to pitch the deck 1/8 inch per linear foot. Removing the entire concrete patio would be a huge added expense to the labor. I was told the sand can be laid right on top of the patio. I guess my main concern is how they would make it sit this high. Thanks again for any help.

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    It won't matter if you pitch the sub-base for the patio as it being permeable, any water will migrate through and hit the concrete patio, which is not pitched, still allowing water to possibly puddle and not wick away.

    I also noticed no expansion joint between the patio and the pool beam. Without that there isn't any freedom of movement which could crack or loosen the coping (maybe this happened already with original)


    Proper pitch is actually 1/4" per ft.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    You're right about the expansion joint. We had old pavers and tile fall off into the pool in the past. What they did over the skimmer was replaced the rebar, form it, and lay a bed of mortar on which they're setting the pavers. The way they raised up the coping was use some flexible forms and poured about an inch and a half of concrete on top of the existing beam, which I guess you call a cold joint. So now the pavers are sitting mostly on top of the beam and they are also mortared to the patio which concerns me due to settlement. However, the pool was built almost 20 years ago, so I don't see how much more it can shift. This morning, they raised up the forms a bit more and they're using that as a guide to lay the pavers with mortar. Hopefully everything is okay because it's starting to look really good


  • 5 years ago



  • last year

    Looks great. What coping is that? Can you kindly provide the name and seller contact? What material?

  • PRO
    last year

    Looks like Travertine

  • PRO
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Provided the existing surface has been cleaned thoroughly, pressure washer preferred, any loose material is removed, the new setting material will have no problem bonding to the old concrete.

    The concrete must Surface Saturated Dry (SSD). No puddling of water. A bonding agent is not necessary, but it can be used. It's best not let it dry prior to applying setting material.

    We have added benches and steps to old concrete pools on reno's using the SSD method.

    Those add-ons were reinforced with rebar.

    Bagged concrete mix is ok as it has some aggregate mixed in. Some Portland cement can be added for additional strength too.

    Rebar won't be beneficial on such a small thickness. It needs a certain amount of coverage around it to be beneficial.

    Some pieces of concrete wire mesh could possibly be used but not necessary.

    We have done repairs exactly like this adding 2" of material and have no issues even in a freeze/thaw region.

    The back of the coping should be sealed with the setting material in an effort to keep water intrusion under the stones.

    An expansion joint with a strip at the back of the stones allows the patio and the coping to move independently.