Those are spider mites, and the yellow and brown spots are the damage they have caused by sucking some of the sap out of your plant.iI would start with wiping the surface of your leaves down with a damp rag (top AND bottom), and then spray weekly with neem oil for 3-4 weeks.

Small cuts in some leaves, but might be normal The cuts might be caused by low humidity while the leaves were unfurling, which can cause the leaves to stick to themselves, which causes the rips. It could also be some form or other of mechanical injury ..... like a bruise.

I do mist regulary and have a water meter so no under/overwater. Misting is innefectual insofar as an aid to raising the RH of air surrounding the plant. It's effects last perhaps 10 minutes, leaving 1,430 minutes of each day when it has no effect. Water meters don't measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the probe and insert it into a clean cup partly filled with distilled water and note that it reads 'DRY'. A sprinkle of salt later will find the needle all the way over of the 'WET' side of the scale. Keep in mind that, in a pot 10" deep the top 2" of the medium can feel dry to the touch while the bottom 6" or more of the soil column is 100% saturated with water. It's not important how dry the top few inches of the medium is, but it's critically important what's going on deep in the pot. A wooden "tell" made from a dowel rod (any hardware store) 6.5-8mm works better than a moisture meter. Water when the tell comes out almost but not quite dry when pushed to the bottom of the pot.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

Thanks all for your help!