Sure, the cut in and cut out pressures on the switch are adjustable. You can look up instructions on the interwebs. You will need to charge the tank according to directions provided by the tank manufacturer.

Good on you that you replaced the gauge - old gauges are seldom right. I like replacing everything at the same time, and the thing that's the most likely to leave you without water is that switch.

Rule-of-thumb on bladder air pressure is 2 psi below switch cut-in pressure. This turns on the pump before the tank is empty, keeping you from experiencing an annoying loss in pressure and water as the pump comes up to pressure. To adjust the pressure switch, look inside the protective cover. Most switches have instructions there. I would adjust the pressure switch first, then bring the bladder pressure up to spec. A manufacturer will offer several operating ranges for pump switches, the switches are identical with only the spring setting as the difference between them; I like well systems operating in the 40-60 psi range.

I have read the directions and looked at some online as well. I was hoping for a simpler description of adjusting the switch. From what i can tell, i need to tighten the main pressure screw to bring the low end up to where i want it and then loosen the secondary screw to bring down the high end to where i want it. It seems the difference is right around 25 and should be 20. I fear experimenting too much and screwing it up to the point of draining the system again to replace the switch. It will be trial an error, but i would like to be sure i start out in the correct direction. I would be happy to get close to the original 30-50.