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getgoing100_7b_nj

Suggestions on saving this rootless Vanda tip cutting

4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago

I bought four BS Vandas (Rhyncostylis/hybrids) from Krull Smith May 2021 (one in bud). I transitioned them from bare root to lava rock in terracotta pot. They were left outdoors with partial sun exposure and of course rains. A couple of months later. while one of them (Perreiraara Rapeepath) was in spike, it suddenly developed what I determined to a bacterial rot (wet translucent spots on leaves followed by yellowing and browning, healthy fat green roots turning brown/black from inside. Within days the Vanda died despite all efforts to save it by cutting off infected parts, liquid copper fungicide treatment (supposed to work on bacteria as well). The infection got to the lower stem and then the crown even though I thought I had cut off the infected stem, leaves and roots. See the sad story here Sudden fungal/bacterial attack on my Vanda in spike - Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web !

Now I have serious issues with another one of the lot (Rhynco. Coelestis pink). I had gone away for a month and left it in a SE window in Oct 2021. I had put the pot in another pot with a bit of water at the bottom of the outer pot but not touching the inner terracotta pot that the Vanda was housed in. Anyhow, it appeared fine when I got back but a few of the very healthy fat newer roots had turned brown and then a couple of leaves at the bottom turned yellow in the next few weeks. When I examined it closely and cut off the brown roots and yellow leaves, I suspected that the stem may also be infected. Eventually, I cut the stem at the base and found it to be rotten. I cut off the infected stem and cut some more of the stem upwards (total 1-2" length) leaving only a soft green stem tip part (1-2" length) with a few leaves.

The remaining bottom somewhat less infected stem with the roots had a Kieke and I hoped it would live but it withered away soon. So, now I have the stem tip-I treated the cut wound with cinnamon and left it to dry. I have been letting it sit among the foliage of some of my jasmines for now, mostly out of sun. The question is what I should do to help it develop new roots without risking the return of the fungal/bacterial infection that caused the current state of affairs. One would normally provide some moisture via potting media (bark or such) for the stem to root and possibly an enclosure to prevent the leaves from drying such as a plastic bag. However, given the infection history I am not sure those steps wouldn't just kill the poor thing.

In fact, I am now convinced that my remaining two healthy vandas from Krull also possibly infected ticking time bombs. They both have lost some bottom leaves at the base at different points in time and aren't growing much at all for a while now. I am convinced that the infection was inherent in these vandas. I have a couple of Vanda seedlings fro a different source that are perfectly healthy under similar conditions.






Comments (4)

  • 4 years ago

    Where do you live? Climate?

    Personally, I would toss it and start over. If you live in a cold climate it just won't be worth trying to keep it alive long enough to either make roots or a keiki.


    I'm sorry, but it would be difficult to advise trying to save a possibly infected orchid with no roots, during winter (if you live in a cold climate).


    Jane

    getgoing100_7b_nj thanked jane__ny
  • 4 years ago

    her name says NJ ... lol ... weve all been there ...


    being a die hard experimenter ... i dont know if i would just chuck it out the back door ... may as well try something.. anything .... presuming you have space in your condo for said experiment ... and it sure sounds like you have enough experience with these plants to come up with some diabolical plan ...


    see if any of these helps ...


    https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Vanda+plant+propagation&t=ffcm&iax=videos&ia=videos


    all that said.. im no help on these types of plants.. so good luck with that ..


    ken

    getgoing100_7b_nj thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
  • 4 years ago

    Getgoing, I'm afraid I'm going to have to echo much of what Jane said. When I had a large collection of plants, I found Vandas just impossible to deal with. I was moving every 2 to 4 years, and the requirements of super high humidity and high heat was more than I could deal with. The first winter in Kansas taught me lots of lessons. Commercial Vanda ranges tend to grow their plants on wires strung between posts in open fields. I suspect your problems may ultimately be coming from temperature, but I am really not experienced enough to give you any assistance beyond that. I'm sorry, but just don't have the knowledge with Vandas. I'm with Ken though, I would experiment with the plants you have until the bitter end. Lots of research and learning potential there.

    Bill

    getgoing100_7b_nj thanked Billsc
  • 4 years ago

    Jane, If I lived in Florida and could walk into an orchid nursery and take my pick, I might have considered chucking it. Probably not. I live on the coast in NJ across from NYC, zone 7b. I don't think a young stem cutting would make a keiki, but I am not convinced it will not make new roots, especially if the infection has been removed.


    Ken, thanks for the encouraging words. I am absolutely going to try some innovating techniques and keep my fingers crossed. Anyone reading that long write up of mine should probably have guessed that chucking it wasn't an option I was considering. :) I wonder why people never consider chucking their pet dogs/cats when they get sick but don't think much about doing that to plants. All the nurturing must lead to some emotional attachment, no? If the emotional aspect appears irrational, having paid and arm and a leg for the blooming size plant plus shipping should be a motivation to salvage what one can of the investment, not to mention the case that went into it since acquisition.

    I had looked at some of the you tube videos having the closest situation to mine, they all had lesser disease, some roots left and/or longer and hardier tip cuttings to work with. Nevertheless, hope springs eternal....


    Bill, not all vandas need as much heat and humidity. I think that reputation comes from commercial growers' bare root hanging basket growing preference, which makes sense as it occupies less space, and their watering methods allow for frequent sprays of the roots. Potted Vandas don't need frequent watering or as much humidity and many growers would vouch for that. In particular, Rhyncostylis vandas can take cool temperatures and prolonged dryness, require less light and are suited to potted growing. Travaldo's blog: Rhynchostylis coelestis care and culture I certainly will try to save it till the bitter end. It is really not dehydrating much at all, so I am optimistic of its chances. I have sealed the cut (that I had used cinnamon on) with hot glue. I think I am just going to let it hang on other plants in the SE window with supplemental lights. Being with other foliage helps it be around some humidity without having a potting media or requiring spritzing. I will spare it further intervention till it shows signs of dehydration.