Request a quote to add a 240 volt, 50 amp circuit with a 14-50R outlet on the wall behind the range opening. Important: be sure the outlet is placed in the acceptable outlet area for the range(s) you're considering (example: LG LSE4616ST, page 14). I had to move my outlet down when I switched out my radiant range for induction. The outlet was too high and would not have allowed the new range to be pushed back against the wall.

I'm thinking about it. My recent remodel was supposed to have put in electrical to support it but I need to confirm...and come to terms with losing my cavernous gas oven.

The price for upgrading electrical varies by location and build of course. But there may be governmental incentives to do the switch. My state has a lot of "rebates" for electrifying. Do y'all have similar programs up north?

I have not done this but this is what I'd have to do at my lake place if I replace that old gas range. My understanding is you do the electrical as described above and have someone cap off the gas line to the range.

The cost will vary significantly depending on what the route from the panel to range location looks like and possibly your tolerance for less aesthetically pleasing solutions to wire runs. 200a might be tight for adding an induction as well so you may beed to upgrade your panel.

Hi @opaone. In a discussion about potentially upgrading my household to 400A, my town electrical inspector tried to bet me* that I couldn't operate my fully electrical house (except oil burning hydronic heating system) at more than 90A. I didn't take the bet even though I could pull more by operating various things that wouldn't normally be operated at the same time (air conditioning and sauna, for example, while running both wall ovens and 36-inch induction cooktop full blast, and electric clothes dryer). As a result, I wasn't too worried about adopting use of a 200A generator transfer switch as my main disconnect. I haven't had to reset it yet after 10 years. Total panel capacity of my breaker boxes is, effectively, 400A.

So a 200A service should be OK with an induction cooktop unless a lot of current is already allocated to big power dissipators such as electric heating, a heated driveway, electrically heated high air flow MUA, or a Tesla.

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*It is best to not take bets one can win from one's electrical inspector if one is performing as the electrician.

"So a 200A service should be OK with an induction cooktop unless a lot of current is already allocated to big power dissipators such as electric heating, a heated driveway, electrically heated high air flow MUA, or a Tesla."

Yeah, they may be fine w/ 200 and may not be. It depends on what electric devices they have or will have in the future, how they use them and what their current service entrance is.

They can stick an IotaWatt or similar on their service to get an idea of current usage - both peak amp draw and voltage drops (pushing the limit of the service entrance/xformer can cause voltage drops that can quickly damage electronics). It's important to account for seasonal variation though and to understand the limits of their service entrance and how close the new induction will come to stressing it.

Also, very likely everyone will need the ability to charge their cars at home and it may be less expensive for the OP to do that upgrade now along w/ induction rather than later. My primary car has been electric for 7 years and my truck will be in the next year or two so we'll have two cars and a truck to charge. The benefits are too massive to ever go back to petrol (and financially it's rather dumb to buy a new petrol car today).

"*It is best to not take bets one can win from one's electrical inspector if one is performing as the electrician."

Good call! :-)

We had one inspector for about 20 years who was really good and would even stop by to do intermediate checks if he had time. The guy who replaced him would hardly look at stuff done by licensed electricians no matter how shoddy the work but was bound and determined to not pass anything done by a homeowner.

Yes, agree measurement should be made or calculations performed. These should be compared to the design limit of 80% of rated current (160A). And your point about insufficiently low pole transformer source impedance is also valid. But unless one is using all the hobs for canning or such, and the bring to boiling stages for all hobs are synchronized, for most cooking one is very unlikely to be using much more than half the rated current of the cooktop. Why?

Use of a lot of power at once is likely to make for a very busy cook. Using power boost or higher power levels to get pans to temperature quickly without the thermal mass of a lot of water and without overshooting and is a very tricky process, not easily accomplished without tears if attempted on more than one pan at the same time. Being quicker than gas can lead to surprises.

With some states and countries varying electrical rates at different times of the day/night you'll likely setup your car to charge late at night if you're using a 50A circuit. Tesla maxes at 48A on 220v. I charge on 110v just fine. Solar and LFP batteries would avoid problems.

SuperB touts LFP batteries as providing high safety. I hope they weren't the type used by Porsche that helped sink ca. $400M worth of cars carried by the Felicity Ace into the Atlantic last month.

@kaseki: "$400M worth of cars carried by the Felicity Ace into the Atlantic last month."

Blog post with list of Volkswagen group cars that were lost.

"With some states and countries varying electrical rates at different times of the day/night you'll likely setup your car to charge late at night if you're using a 50A circuit."

Generally yes. Occasionally you'll find that you need to charge at other times though and ideally you want that capacity available 24x7.

"Tesla maxes at 48A on 220v."

The current chargers yes. Ours are 80a @ 240v. Some people are installing chargers that do 90-150a @ 240v and I expect we'll see those from Tesla. Being able to do a faster charge does come in handy on occasion.

"I charge on 110v just fine."

Yep. We have 20a @ 120v in Florida and that works well. Just sometimes requires a bit more planning. We've not found the need to install anything more.

The Felicity Ace thing is quite amazing.

"Also, very likely everyone will need the ability to charge their cars at home and it may be less expensive for the OP to do that upgrade now along w/ induction rather than later."

Getting 240V in the garage is already first on my list. I've been driving electric for over 2 years, and I also will never willingly go back to driving an ICE vehicle. I'd be doing that before I even think about kitchen changes; I'll probably do that before moving in ;) I don't have the kind of time to charge from a 110V outlet on a regular basis, but I can do it for weekends at the cottage.

Thanks @wdccruise for the link. Tying this all back to induction, Zojirushi makes induction rice cookers.