This was a self pour. We were considering putting up new forms and new pour to straighten out the line ( reinforced of course) and anchoring to original pour. Not sure if this is necessary or if the framing( sill plate placement) along with the Stonemason can make adjustments instead.

I'd be afraid to try anything other than starting over.

How far is it out corner to corner?

A concrete saw can be used to cut a brick ledge. Very messy job and do not advise diy.

Then a steel brick ledge could be anchored to the curved-in section to match the newly cut ledge.

Alternatively, steel brick ledges could be anchored all-round.

Yes, I have seen this done when the builder changed his mind and instead of EIFS decided to use brick and stone veneer. Advise having the anchoring method and steel used speced out by a structural engineer.

What was lowest outside temperature that was realized during the first 24 hours after the pour?

Depends how far out of whack the curve is on whether you can adjust the sill plate. Don't see a brick ledge, so I assume you are bearing the brick and joists in the same plane on top the wall.

About 75' end to end. Pour was done in 2 sets..1st pour without issue( half the house)..2nd pour the forms shifted ( note: a steel forming system was used with all recommended bracing in place)...12" thick wall.

Also pour was done 1st week December and everything was blanketed and protected as required.

3/4"? 2"? 4" out of whack? Then over what length, 3'? 8'?

If you pull a string corner to corner in that 75' how far is the wall off at the widest point

Don't see a brick ledge, so I assume you are bearing the brick and joists in the same plane on top the wall.

If that's the case, there will have to be lots of expensive carefully seamed waterproofing used to protect the wood. And likely more foundation showing than was planned.

It's 3.5-4" off at widest point over 10ft at worst

The first course( bottom layer) is perfectly straight...it is the top half that is skewed.

Don't understand if you used a full 8' or 9' tall form how just the upper half leaned in. But a 4" wave is too much to overcome so you should be sawcutting out that 10' length all the way down to the footing. Then doweling into the adjacent walls.

The steel form panels were actually 4x2' tied in together and braced.

And you're right , that would be the ideal solution, but also the most costly.

The connection at 4' should have had walers.

Hopefully you have a higher 15% contingency. Other little things like drilling/epoxying the anchors will nickel and dime you since you didn't place with the pour.

Whalers and braces were placed as per specs and extras were even added as ...

Perhaps you can incorporate the undulation into the houses design.

Well, if the design called for a brick ledge, and one wasn’t poured, in addition to the issue with the wavy wall, then hold your contractor’s feet to the fire until you get a do over. Is the excavator still on site?

Fake it; it's not that bad.

The brick shelf is critical and we don't know much about it.

Was it built and is it straight?

If you need to tear part of the wall down, do it ASAP.

A photo of the face of the wall would be helpful.

Perhaps the concept of a bump-out in the framed wall without brick can be incorporated into the design to conceal the foundation "customization".

Similar to @Mark Bischak, Architect 's suggestion, perhaps you can cantilever floor over, and masonry below. Floor plans & elevations?

Did the same people that poured the foundation design the house?

I typically pay for third party to pour foundation, this looks like an amature mistake. And with Mark having 75' run of 10' wall is just dumb, unless it has some good wall thickness and steel.

If you are the one doing the labor [and while concrete is weak] cut to footer and repour. It is pretty fast. No brick ledge, mechanically fasten. (expensive)

You don't demolish and replace over less than a 4% deviation. Fake it. It's a foundation, not a space telescope. There are plently of things to delay a new construction project substantially; this ain't one of 'em. And you're not replacing the 2x4s that arrive with a little mold on them either. Put your foot on the gas and get 'er done please.

I did not know I had 75' run of 10' wall ??

IMO this should have been done by a pro but now I agree fake it or redo it those are the choices.

75' run of 10' wall

Source: Building Science Corp.

Undoubtedly, designed with control joints to control cracking.

Look at it this way: If a hired contractor had this happen from poor shoring and pouring methods, you would be here asking who's hand to hold to the fire. The thread would be 100 comments long and bry911 would be arguing with someone about law precedent. The running commentary would be that the contractor must replace it at their cost.

4" is too far off to bastardize all that comes above the foundation and with the interior buildout. 3/4" might have been recoverable, but realize a typical full brick veneer is nominal 4" wide. So it doesn't matter that you performed the work DIY - tear it out and fix it right.

And for some reason too many people are hung up on the brick ledge. The wall is 12" wide, which means the joists and brick will both sit on top of the wall.