Measurements and ceiling height are needed…and also an idea of where you will have shelves or double hanging rods…closet design is sort of an art if you plan on optimizing all of the available space….we find open shelving very versatile in our walk- in…and drawers as well….another thing that matters is what color the walls are …darker walls need more lighting ….and make the space feel smaller…it looks like it may not be possible for more than one person at a time to use the closet

Track lighting may be a better way to go…so you can add or move fixtures to where they are needed…

How tall is the ceiling?

What size is the closet?

Never label "SAFE" on drawings that are for public view.

Closet looks no more than 8 x 7 ' ..judging from pocket door.

3300 lumens below is ALL you need. ( over 200 incandescent watt equivalent ) White/flush/led/ simple/done.

https://www.build.com/access-lighting-20848ledd/s1640165?uid=3886652

What do you mean by "flush fit"? Give us the model or the specs for that fixture.

The fixture you posted appears to have removable, exposed LED lamps which would not be allowed in a closet in the US. Most track lighting is also not allowed. (NEC 410.16)

Here's what you can use:

- Surface or recessed incandescent or LED luminaries with a completely enclosed light source.
- Surface or recessed fluorescent luminaires (CFL treated the same as incandescent)
- Surface-mounted or recessed LED luminaires identified for use within a closet storage space.

You would also need to meet the minimum clearances to storage.

I would be concerned with the color rendition of LED light in a closet. Most LED sources are deficient in red and tend to only render pastel colors accurately (R1-R8). What is desired is an R9 greater than 50.

Since that rating is often 0, it can be difficult to get it from a manufacturer so look for "California Title 24" on the package.

Good lighting is not easy to select so get professional assistance.

Maybe add more windows, since it is located at the corner of the house and all four walls are exposed to the outside.

(there is a hint there unrelated to lighting)

Equivalent to a 100 watt incandescent bulb:

• Juno WF8 SWW5 90CRI MW M6 5 Colors - Natural Light - 8 in. - Ultra Thin Selectable LED Downlight Fixture - 19 Watt: Hardwire - Kelvin 2700-3000-3500-4000-5000 - 1700 Lumens - 100 Watt Incandescent Equal - 90 CRI
• Lithonia WF8 3 Colors - Natural Light - 8 in. Ultra Thin Selectable LED Downlight Fixture: Hardwire - Kelvin 3000-4000-5000 - 1850 Lumens - 20 Watt (90 CRI)

We have one of these in our 6’wide x12’ long closet and it is enough light for the whole space

Although it did cost about $13.99…..(about 20 years ago!)…still working well tho’ i think we did have to replace the bulb once..🤷🏼‍♀️☺️

Ceiling is 9'. Closet is about 10'8" x 10'8" (at longest back walls)

Their standard lights are something like this - 6" flush mount 3000K 15W LED, maybe 950-ish lumens

American Lighting QD6-30

JA8 in the spec for the American Lighting fixture above refers to Joint Appendix 8 of California's Title 24 law.

So you will have approximately a 5x5 square foot open area in the center… with a pretty tall ceiling…where most of the space above will be inconvenient to reach……with all that in mind it seems one fixture would be enough…especially with light coming from the window and the adjoining room to some extent…I would consider an exhaust fan … maybe in the window.. to keep it fresh and airy… since you have that option

I would recommend a fixture that hung down from the ceiling an appropriate distance and casts light in all directions.

Is the house under construction?

When I put lighting in my closets, I used fluorescent tubes or their LED equivalent, with a wall switch inside, next to the door.

There is a requirement (somewhere) that restricts the fixtures heat build-up related to the size of the closet, so when the closet door is closed and the light left on, a fire hazard is not created.

Doesn’t a LED strip light meet that requirement?

Yes, house is under construction.

They are just starting to put in boxes and pull wire. The window is a high mount 2x24 fixed glass (with a shade or blind at some point) - it will let 'some' diffused light in during day but not much.

I can either add a couple more boxes (3 total) and arrange as indicated above using their standard flush mount LED

Or I can leave the single centered fixture (and come back later and add my own light fixture such as the one above - probalby some sort of 'aimable' LED...). If anyone recommends this - let me know of any particular single fixture that might work better.

thanks,

An alternative we've used is a 4' track (maybe 2x4') for retrofit. Run diagonal from upper left to lower right corner. Allows many options without adding more hard wire points. Be careful with light color/temp.

Equivalent to 200 watts incandescent Once and one and better looking than the builder with tons more light Good grief, you won't get more on an ugly track

• Lumens: 3300
• Color Temperature: 3000K
• Color Rendering Index: 85CRI
• Wattage: 30 watts

https://www.build.com/access-lighting-20848ledd/s1640165?uid=3886652

LED or incandescent lamps in track lighting fixtures must be enclosed.

Good grief. It's a CLOSET the size of a nursery bedroom. Minus hanging or shelving all around, there's 6' x 6' of ceiling. Slam a flush mount up , glass covered bulb and call it a day.

The 16 inch above ? 30 watts? Easy peasy done. and a flood of light The chance for any heat in there lol? Near zero. Nobody ever bothers to close a pocket door. Pocket doors a re a lovely concept...........and generally a total wast of money.

I think a pocket door is a nice feature..tho’ you will leave it open mostly ..but it is a nice feature that allows you to close the door when there will be company using the bath ..or moisture may become an issue when you are using the shower long enough to allow any dampness into the closet…

We have the same fixture Jan recommends and it works perfectly