I would just paint it.

I think the countertop is perfectly fine too -- unless it's damaged or something? I'd get new faucets though.

oh also, if you do keep the counter, it's possible that the caulk needs to be redone. in the pics it looks a little old and/or sloppy. fixing that will make a huge difference, and once you paint and install new faucets, I think you will like that counter a lot more!

you'd need a custom one built to fit that spot. painting is cheaper.

Easier to remove the doors, give them a good cleaning, sanding, priming and paint. ditto for the base portion.

Drill some holes for hardware.

Paint all the wood baseboard/ door trim a crisp white (same for the light soffit), trim out the mirror, and paint your walls another color.

you could inset a few shelves in that wall next to the sink area to give you more storage for small toiletries. (or, install a medicine cabinet)

you could do a pre-fab wall cabinet like this

Or, some floating wood shelves.

you'd have to cut into the drywall, make your inset between studs, and redo some drywall finish work. not difficult.

If you have the money, get a diff countertop and instead do two smaller mirrors, maybe tile that entire wall.

https://www.maisondepax.com/paint-cabinets-last-painting-bathroom-vanity/

switch out the lights for something nicer.

Up to you what you want.

But the vanity? easy fix if you're willing to do the required prep work. (if not, the paint wont last long)

here are some links to help, with a few before/after shots.

jere's the after. see how the mirror is framed?

https://domesticblonde.com/2017/08/22/update-bathroom-cabinet-this-is-how-to-refinish-yours-for-professional-results/

Simple painti job and hardware on an older vanity:

Wow!! thank you so much! i love every idea! I think I will absolutely just sand, repaint it and add a new countertop. I like the idea of framing the mirror. I really would love to have two mirrors, but sadly if you notice where the far left sink is, the wall is at a corner so it won’t fit nicely.

New faucets and eliminate the oak trim on the soffit. You have no idea the Pandora's Box you're going to open if you try and replace that vanity.

Hey!

Just repaint. and add some new hardware.

But apart from that, to update the bathroom, remove both the mirrors, and put a framed one above the vanity. You can add wall shelves, a mirror on an arm for shaving and holders for your hair gadgets. add an air plant. They are notoriously low maintenance.

I don't know who did this countertop and backsplash, but it was poorly done. horrible seaming and the caulking is horrendous.

If you like the solid white, see if you can recaulk.

if you can swing it, get a new countertop and think about tiling that wall.

you can look for a pre-fab countertop or some type of remnant. The pre fabs come in a 22" X 6' or longer length. The installer will cut it to your specs on site, so that diagonal end should be an issue. Go to a stone yard and ask to see what they have in stock (pre-fabs) Or, find out if they have any remnants.

For the splash, you can do a ribbon of tile in the same height as what you currently have:

(simple subway)

Or more of a decorative tile for the backsplash.

(make sure to get some handles or pulls)

or do the entire wall.

Again, simple subway tile laid in a stacked pattern

or, go for more of a glass mosaic. this is shown w/2 mirrors, but you could still do your framed mirror

check out the before and after on this one. If you can do most of the DIY, I promise, it won't cost you a ton!

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/our-bathroom-remodel-greige-subway-tile-and-more/

Larger hex tile to compliment the darker vanity and quartz

larger panel like this shiplap painted a contrasting color is also an option

With your large mirror, you could either cut it down a bit and edge it w/some type of framing material, then use some type of tile for the backsplash. here it's the pebble tile.

I like the wall mounted faucet since they give you more room and it's easier to clean. if you plan on redoing the countertop and faucets, think about running a line up the wall for your faucets

I am hear for all of these suggestions! Just scheduled my guy to come out in 2 weeks to repaint vanity, and he will also take down mirror and fix drywall if need be. Planning on getting a new countertop too. Would love for him to take soffit down if knows how to.

make SURE you question him on how he's going to prep the wood vanity. don't just assume he knows how to do it (I can tell you horror stories!)

It has to be sanded and primed. If he says he's using a deglosser, he's lazy. Let me say it again,,,,SANDING, then a good primer like the pics I posted, then ANOTHER sanding,,,,then the paint. (sometimes I even do a wet sanding w/a 600 grit between the first and second coats.

question him how he paints, how he preps and the products used to prime and paint.

make sure you ahve the hardware on hand prior to painting so the holes won't mess up the new paint job.

Beth makes a good point. Disregard what I said about redoing the caulk, the piecework is terrible. However, you mighrt be albe to rip off the backsplash, re-tile and keep the counter. (you won't know for sure until the backsplash is pulled off.)

I'm not trying to persuade you into keeping the counter-- it's just an option if you start running into budget or logistical issues.

Now let's talk practicality. If you do get a new counter, I strongly discourage a vessel sink. I have one and it's cute, and a great solution if you're trying to make an existing vanity work. But it's a huge pain to dry off water that splashes behind it multiple times a day. What I wouldn't give for a normal sink!

Plain white integrated sinks are still in style, and with the right upgrades, it will look fabulous! (you don't have to style it like this, these are just examples of integrated sinks looking current.)

Found a few more pics that might work for your bathroom

Same angled vanity! She did paint it. took off a few of the doors, painted inside and made open cubbies. quartz countertop. (I don't like the other design ideas though)

How about this wood shelf going from side to side just under the mirror? gives you extra room for the small stuff

here's a tutorial on how to do a pennytile backsplash w/a wood shelf. I like this one

https://www.remodelaholic.com/tips-installing-penny-tile-backsplash-floating-shelf/

Cheap subway tile:

Or, if you get the new vanity top, have them cut a nice backsplash piece that goes up like this

and then mount your wood shelf right above it. This you can DIY. Go to a lumber yard and get a wood board (1X8 or 1.5 X 6-8" ) Have it cut to your length, Stain and varnish, and use lag bolts to mount it to your studs. easy peasy and shouldn't cost more than $50

Another inset vanity that was painted, doors removed (this pic is elongated for some reason!) open shelving is done for towels and baskets.

do the walls in this type of shiplap, one large mirror, maybe a few sconces.

Like this? you can modify to fit your style. here's a how-to:

https://www.remodelaholic.com/how-to-make-a-modern-sunrise-floating-mirror-shelf/

Add a frame to your mirror

https://www.remodelaholic.com/framing-large-bathroom-mirror/

May I ask.. is there any liking for the use of wood above mirror [is it like the vanity's stain]? Could the upper wood be a 'cool' accent for pendants of metal / interesting glass, etc.?

Duncan Aged Brass One-Light Pendant with Rubbed Bronze Shade · More Info

From ceiling too -

Small Cone 1-Light Sconce, Matte White Cased Glass, Antique Copper · More Info

@everdebz This may be a dumb question, but if I remove that wood soffit then can an electrician just hang pendant lights? or will this be a whole undertaking? i do not like the look of the current lighting situation, and like the idea of the above lights

Idk, not qualified, and idk what is underneath the wood panel. Maybe with tiny repair, it could be easy. The panel isn't ugly, is it? could be lightened in some way - Beth and other have used chalk paint, dry brush, etc... I thought that a smooth mirror could contrast with a bit of wood [like the above]... esp. with slight industrial faucet look...

If all else is 'minimal simple' maybe this type? maybe your vanity could be charcoal black... do you have a fav between warm tone hardware.. or cool-toned?

I think of this hung rotated black at bottom, airy cage pendants in matte black?

1 Light Black Finish Cage Wire Pendant with Seedy Glass Shade · More Info

Pemberly Row Wagars Mirror in Burnt Oak and Black · More Info

Your faucets are nice - what finish? From the side, see it's shapely, not fully flat -

Hutton Round Decorative Wood Framed Wall Mirror, Walnut Brown, 22 Diameter · More Info

maybe your counter could match the floor, ok seems... with your current mirror, chunk canopy and cute pendants grab some attention instead of framed mirrors... depends what you start off liking, partly.

Havelock ADU · More Info

Bathrooms · More Info

I think there's time to mull it over... here's a medium color vanity - with your tan floor, maybe 'natural' tan mirrors like these -

Blue vanity was my first choice, however however, i think I need to keep it white or some neutral bc of the floor tile I chose, Rustic white hexagon. Here is shower tile:

if I remove that wood soffit then can an electrician just hang pendant lights?

I think they could, but I can't tell. Can you show us a better picture of the soffit and the ceiling? Pendants will be a good idea since the electrician won't have to move wiring, but you might find that they feel too crowded in that space. I recommend trying out a "template": get two balloons and blow them up to the size you think the pendants will be. When you hang them, tape the string right in the middle of the light on the left and right. See if it feels too crowded overall, or if they look like they will be too close to the walls.

I see that the tile you're choosing is a warm color, so I see why you do want to change your countertops. Will you show us what floor tile and countertop material you are considering? We can help you choose a paint color for the vanity based off that.

If accents of brass or copper with sheen - seems that vanity could be a neutral from the shower tile. Pebble/stone colors are natural together: tan tiles and a subtle green pebble color.... ?

Jbella: Beth H (and others) have given you lots of good ideas! Paint, find a nice remnant stone top (or quartz), get new sinks, faucets, mirror(s)…..if you need extra storage, look into medicine cabinets….we installed our own, it’s not that difficult. (If recessed you need to cut into the 2x4s, then “box out” the area with new 2x4s, esp horizontally….the cab will slide right in, then gets screwed in. We then had frames made for ours, just like for a mirror or painting, by our local frame shop, attached them to the wall around the cabinets, and now they look just like framed mirrors, but provide lots of storage.) There are lots of “fancy” medicine cabs, however, with lighting, outlets, even tvs in the glass, and if that appeals to you, you’ll need a professional installation. As far as your lights go, once you remove the soffit, if you choose to go that route, you’ll likely find that there are no electrical “boxes” in the walls or ceiling to install pendants or sconces….your electrician can easily install them once you’ve figured out exactly where you want them. Happy planning, and good luck!

Beth H: I was interested in your painting advice…..I am getting ready to paint something for a guest room. I noticed that the spray primer was for oil-based paints…..what would I use with BM Advance, e.g.? I’ve painted trim with Advance before, and I love the finish, but it does take some practice. (Our painters really struggled with it, too!) I saw online that someone recommended Zinsser 1-2-3, then roll-paint most of the furniture, using a foam brush in the corners. Our last painter (who did a great job, way better than the first crew) rolled all the ceiling coffers, too, except for a tiny brushed edge along the corners etc. I don’t think I will use an oil-based paint to paint my pieces. Any thoughts?

Coray-

oil base primer is the one to use. you can use a water base paint over an oil base, but not vice versa.

I used this on all of my painted pieces. I used all water based paints (Advance, proclassic, General finishes milk paint, Fine Paints of Europe Eco, chalk paint etc. )

This is fine.

old mahogany pieces have heavy tannins that will bleed through any paint. you must seal the wood w/the oil base primer, or the shellac prior to painting.

if you don't want the white to show through on wood (if you plan distressing the edges) then use the Shellac

Thanks, Beth, that is good to know! I have painted lots, but mostly walls, ceilings, trim, not much furniture. I do remember, however, painting some unfinished shelving for our kids’ rooms, eons ago…..after a while the sap started to bleed through, even through several layers….now I know why.

What does the upper wood measure? idk that it matters much though... but are there any other wood pieces, any cabinets in the room?

@everdebz no upper, the only upper is over the tooket which im planning on removing.

By upper, I meant the wood panel with the lights, above the vanity [and not a cabinet].

"Max Velin" is a spammer. Please flag.