You don't mention where you live, which is sort of important if you want the most specific advice. If I'm reading the image correctly, after you cut it back the first time, it produced only 2 new branches, and each went its own direction, and now you have what looks much like a slingshot. The best way to deal with what you have now is:

1) If you haven't been fertilizing, flush the soil thoroughly the next time your plant needs water, then fertilize. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent fertilizer for Ficus. TIP: don't allow yourself to be duped into buying "Fiddle Leaf Fig" fertilizer. There are several exploitative entities that prey on growers who don't yet have a handle on what fertilizing is all about. The last time I ran the numbers, they revealed Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 (the same NPK ratio these other entities are touting) makes 64X as much at 1/3 the cost, which means people are being asked to pay 192X as much for the watered down version of "Fiddle Leaf Fig Food".

2) Move the plant outdoors into dappled or open shade as soon as nights are reliably above 55*. This should dramatically increase the plant's ability to make food (plants make their own food [sugar/ glucose] during the process of photosynthesis), which raises their level of vitality and allows them to store some of the food/ energy, both of which will contribute to the enthusiasm with which the plant will back-bud after the pruning cuts.

3) Sometime in June, around Father's Day, you can cut the 2 newest branches, which form the V, back to 2 healthy leaves. That is to say, only 2 leaves will remain on each branch, as you see with this Ficus microcarpa cutting:

By pruning this cutting back to 2 leaves, I forced 2 new branches to form in the axils (crotch) of each leaf. When these new branches have grown to the point where the third leaf on the new individual branch is starting to grow, pinch (prune) those branches back to 2 leaves as well. 1 branch begets 2 branches, 2 begets 4, 4 - 8, 8 - 16, 16 - 32 ........ This is how growers can maximize a trees compactness and fullness (ramification).

I didn't go into a lot of detail, so ask for clarity if there was anything you didn't quite understand.

Al

Hi @tapla you must be a plant guru I never knew I needed. Thank you for these instructions. SF Bay Area where nights are recently 50-55s. Am I interpretting correctly, to feed and move outside for a few weeks, then prune both branches? Prune above or below the axis point? When would I move it back indoors?

How is the plant responding to any changes you might have made, Amy?

Al

Al, you have great timing. I was just admiring its growth this morning. I made the error of leaving it outside over a very hot weekend. We had a few abnormally hot summer weekends here and as a result, my plant was very sunburned. I still took your advice to prune it as planned because I fertilized it well. Happy to report new healthy branches and leaves since pruning. It's living indoors in a well lit spot and growing well. I will most likely remove the sunburned leaves at some point, unless they negatively affect growth of the new leaves.

The plant's chemical messengers will 'let the plant know' whether of not the leaves are pulling their weight. If not, the shedding process will begin with the first action being the plant reclaiming nutrients and other biocompounds that are mobile within the plant (resorption). Once that is drawing to an end, a wall (abscission layer) will form between the leaf stem of damaged foliage and the branch leaves are attached to. Until the wall forms, there is still value in allowing the leaves to remain attached. Once completed, the wall/ abscission layer stops all movement of water, nutrients, photosynthate, ...., between the leaf and the rest of the plant. Soo9n after, the leaves' own weight will cause them to drop from the plant. Anything growing in the leaf axil (crotch formed by the leaf stem and the branch) will not be a leaf - it will be a new branch.

Good to know things are going well other than the sunburn misadventure. Strong work!

Al