Laminate Hardwood issues

4 years ago

We bought a new construction home just under a year ago and the entire downstairs had Cascade Laminate hardwood installed. Throughout the year we noticed certain spots were lifting or bouncing when you step on it but it would often resolve on its own. It wasn’t very significant. We assumed it was just settling.

In the last couple weeks we have noticed a much larger area begin to rise up and bounce when walked on. As well as new areas in the kitchen that is starting to bounce when walked on. We have also noticed more cracking sounds on nearly every step. Like crackling or popping.

I’ve filed a warranty repair with the builder since we are a month shy of the one year warranty.

What I want to know is if the issue is poor installation and whether we need a total reinstall. We have had repair requests made and it is usually bandaid style repairs. I’m worried we will be offered a “spot” repair and then our warranty will lapse and we will be SOL when the whole floor comes apart.

It has been an exceptionally wet spring this year and I think that the humidity has caused expansion and there was not enough gap cut during installation. We live in the PNW and this shouldn’t be an issue if installed properly right?

We don’t wet mop, have furniture pads and carpets, and don’t let water sit on the floor.

Any advice or suggestions are much appreciated. Is this a common issue with this type of flooring? Could it be a subfloor issue? It’s a plywood subfloor but I don’t have the specs.

I don’t have a lot of confidence about the quality of workmanship with a majority of installs for everything in this house. Especially all the work with subcontractors. We knew what we were getting into (I’m in currently school for Construction Engineering) and we’re content that we’d be fixing/upgrading a lot of finishes overtime to the quality we want. But I’m not getting stuck with the bill to replace 1000 sq ft of flooring.

This is the floor.

https://www.cascadelaminateusa.com/product/laminate-hardwood-cascadia-shasta/

I couldn't upload a video of the bouncing, but it is at least 1'' of vertical movement with pressure/weight and it's about 4' x 3' area that is peaked up.

Thank you!

Featured Answer

dan1888

4 years ago

last modified: 4 years ago

Give your info to the manufacturer, Get their recommendations for repair or replace. You need to be armed with the correct info. You absolutely don't want to rely on the guy who approved the initial install. I'd also pay to get an independent flooring pro with good reviews to estimate what it'll cost for them to do what they think is the correct procedure. Give this info to the builder to show the strength of your position. Don't wait for him to take a bandaid position he has to defend. If you do it'll be difficult to get him to move off that spot. Stake out your position with strong reasoning first.

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Comments (10)

millworkman
4 years ago
"I’m worried we will be offered a “spot” repair and then our warranty will lapse and we will be SOL when the whole floor comes apart."

Exactly what will happen, basically lip service. I suspect it was not installed properly. How was it put down? What type of glue? What is the subfloor? Most likely, yes a total rip and reinstall f that is possible.
User
4 years ago
Anyone buying a tract home and expecting something other than a tract home gets an F in life. Anyone calling plastic over a photo over particle board ”wood” gets an F in any construction class too. And anyone who can’t use a multi tool to zip out a narrow strip at the walls to increase the gap is never gonna make it in construction anything. They will get laughed off the job.
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Szasta
Original Author
4 years ago
It’s a “floating” install, no glue. It was installed in the summer last year when it was very hot and dry. My guess is it’s a combination of too small a expansion gap and a subfloor issue. Today I went around the entire floor and checked the gap under the baseboards and it was extremely inconsistent. Pretty sure it is a plywood subfloor, since it’s over a crawlspace.
I’ll contact the flooring manufacturer and also see if I can get an installer to come out and take a look. Thanks for the ideas and feedback.

@Verbo I got my grades already this term so you can keep all those F’s (I’m sure you can find a place to put them) and I’ll not void the warranty by keeping my multi tool out it. Cheers.
toxcrusadr
4 years ago
Just my two cents, I don't think trimming it to allow for a sufficient gap voids the product warranty, as the manuf. expects it to be cut to fit. Or maybe you meant the builder's warranty, in which case, ignore this comment.

I do think they should check the gap everywhere, and if it's not lifting in some areas then they're probably going to resist doing the work. If there are problems in enough places I would argue that the rest are only a matter of time. If you can't get them to do it all for you, it's zip tool time.
millworkman
4 years ago
How flat was and is the subfloor? It needs to be within an 1/8" over 10' for most floors. If more than that that would only add to your issues.
Szasta
Original Author
4 years ago
These are questions I will ask but I wasn’t at install and can’t be sure of the condition of the subfloor.
If a total replacement is going to happen I’ll be sure to show up with a beam level and check it myself.

I was referring to the builder’s warranty because they supersede the manufactures warrant for the first year. Plus, if it was an install issue I don’t believe the manufacturer is liable anyways.
millworkman
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Beam level is not required. A 10' straight edge will do fine. I would be certain it will be an install issue with this type of construction.
PRO
User
4 years ago
It’s highly doubtful if the builder will do anything, “warranty” or not. Most tract builders show up for nail pops at month 11, leave all the repainting to the homeowner, and then wash their hands of anythng else entirely. And about month 18, the actual structural inadequacies start to show up.
toxcrusadr
4 years ago
I don't think the floor has to be LEVEL, it only has to be FLAT. If there are bumps and dips the floating floor will act weird in those areas. That's my understanding anyway.

If it gets better or worse depending on humidity and temperature, it doesn't sound like an unflat floor though.