Floppy-topped Sapling

4 years ago

Late summer of 2020 I planted a Newport plum and a Prairifire crabapple. I staked them both because they were very thin saplings. In the spring of 2021 the crabapple was awash in blossom but this spring we had a really bad late spring freeze (Eastern Ontario), so wasn't very showy but over the past few months it hasn't really bounced back.

The plum has leafed out and fluffed up and is just generally looking spectacularly happy while the crabapple looks like the sick, sniffley cousin at a birthday party. (The kid who never wants to play games.)

I had removed the stake this spring because I read that trees shouldn't become dependent on them, but, while the trunk is straight, the entire top of the tree is flopping rather alarmingly. I'm wondering if I should re-stake it to support the top but I can't find any information online.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Featured Answer

ViburnumValley central KY Bluegrass z6

4 years ago

In addition to gardengal48 and others comments above, I will add:

Trees form wood/woody cells in response to environmental stimuli like light, moisture, gravity, and wind. The strength/stiffness of a tree's trunks and branches are responses to the forces acting upon them.

A trunk tightly staked or bound to a rigid object experiences no such stimuli (or very little), so when that rigid support is removed, the tree suddenly experiences gravity and/or wind and cannot remain upright. Anyone that has cleared an overgrown property has seen just this same condition as produced by nature. Seedling trees that have grown up through honeysuckle shrubs (OR INSERT YOUR INVASIVE UNDERSTORY PLANT HERE) has seen these young trees flop due to lack of trunk strength/stiffness.

Similarly, anyone who has pruned off a side branch when limbing up a tree can dissect it to see that there is quite a difference in the wood on what was the underside of the branch/trunk connection (in compression - pushing together - from the weight of the branch pushing down on it) compared to the wood on the upper side of the same connection (in tension - pulling apart - from the same force of gravity).

Likewise, the tree's trunk will experience wind causing sway, but also the reaction of growing cells in response to that swaying to retain an upright position. Here, prevailing winds are from the southwest, so that side of the tree is in tension (stretching, pulling apart) and the northeast side is conversely in compression (pressing together). People that cut up downed trees after a storm could easily show you this characteristic in pieces of logs from the trunks.

Take a look sometime. And thank you, Dr. Shigo...

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Comments (9)

L Clark (zone 4 WY)
4 years ago
The tree looks very healthy to me other than the lean. I would stake it upright again
Lian Ellis thanked L Clark (zone 4 WY)
cecily 7A
4 years ago
If mulch is touching the trunk, please push it back. Thanks.
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BillMN-z4a
4 years ago
'I had removed the stake this spring because I read that trees shouldn't become dependent on them,'

I think more accurately stated, if a tree is staked too tight or rigidly, it will become dependent on the stake and will never stand by itself or at least not until some years pass. Or it may just snap off in a high wind when it can't flex.

I always place stakes a foot or so away from the tree and use a flexible/stretchy material between the tree and the stake (You will have to go with taller stakes on the tree above, I was just trying to keep this one from tipping in a strong wind).

I use nylon stocking material (~$1 or so for a box of 10 knee high nylon socks) it works great and lets the tree sway somewhat in the wind but holds it upright when the wind is calm.

Generally you only need it for one season. I remove it once the leaves fall but occasionally have to put it back on in the spring if lush, new growth causes the tree to become top heavy. Then by mid summer it's usually a done deal.
Lian Ellis thanked BillMN-z4a
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
4 years ago
I notice that it’s leaning away from the big shade tree. Maybe it’s seeking more light?
Lian Ellis
Original Author
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK I can see that might be a possibility in some cases, but I was very careful about placement of this tree because it is a fruit tree, and copious blossoming was one of the desired outcomes. The large tree actually only provides shade for a very short time because it is in the southern end of the property. The tree is in full sun almost the entire day.
ilovemytrees
4 years ago
Stake it until it doesn't need staked anymore; and don't listen to anyone else's arbitrary timeline of when that should be.
BillMN-z4a
4 years ago
Yes and of course we would still suggest 'Properly staked' instead of just 'Staked'.
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years ago
There is NO "arbitrary timeline" for staking. The suggestion of a single growing season is based on studies done by experienced arborists. If you stake in spring, remove in fall. If you plant and stake in fall, remove in spring.

The tree needs to be able to flex and move to develop a firm root establishment and to develop trunk girth and it can't do that if bound to a stake indefinitely.