if you ignore it.. it will return to the shape of a normal tree .. i can already see that it is doing that ..

this is not genetic on any level.. its all about training and pruning ...

your is little different that any of these... just a different form ..

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=topiary&ia=images&iax=images

i have no idea why you would need to mire it to a wall.. who ever trained it into that shape.. sure didnt ... the wood you see there was more a shipping form.. rather than a requisite structure. apple trees dont need such ... go to any orchard and look ...

if you arent going to keep it as designed.. transplant it al least 10 feet away from the house.. in the middle of your yard.. so it will have full sun completely around the canopy as all fruit trees need ...

ken

Sorry, but that information is not correct. To grow an espalier you will need to wire the wall. Google how to do it and how to do the subsequent regular and continuous training. The wood is absolutely requisite to start the training process. It is not just for shipping. And it is impossible to grow an espalier if you plant it ten feet from the wall. It needs be be about a foot away ... maximum.

I agree with floral. Espaliered fruit trees are trained to be two dimensional - trained flat against a wall or fence or freestanding as a sort of a fruiting fence or barrier but with necessary supporting structures. And are typically sold with those structures already in place by the grower. Because of this, they need even more attention and pruning than do regularly grown fruit trees, especially if you want them to be productive.

Dismiss the idea of comparing them with orchard trees. Orchardists are not going to invest the time or effort with espaliers.......this is a training and growing practice that is almost entirely the realm of homeowners/hobby gardeners or smallholders, where space is at a premium.

Curious what information is incorrect? When I bought it last fall, it was already flat and “espaliered”. It looked nicer and more kempt. The salesman said it would grow along the wall. But I didn’t realize the amount of work to keep it looking great.

I think I’ll do what the first commenter suggested and move it to a normal part of the years where it doesn’t need to be an espalier.

I love the looks of them and think it would work well there but honestly I have so many other things to do not sure I’ll have the time to dedicate to it.

Your tree's genetic blueprint will continuously direct it to form a natural shape. So that if intensive pruning and training are discontinued, it is moved into the open then over time it should manage to form a general approximation of what it might have looked like otherwise.

However, if your apple is on a fully dwarfing rootstock it will never be able to hold up its own top, as soon as it gets enough size and weight to it. So that you will still need to provide some kind of permanent support. Otherwise it's going to lean over eventually.

Also when you bought it you paid extra for it to have been flat and on a frame - the best move going forward might be to get somebody else to handle the problem for you. Somebody who of course knows how to develop and maintain such a specimen. Or maybe can come and coach you in person, after which you will be able to carry on with it by yourself.

I meant it was impossible to grow a wall espalier, such as the OP has, if planted ten feet from the wall. Obviously you can grow an espalier in the open, if you put in a wire system.

Thanks for all of the comments. I really wish I had enough time to maintain it but have a lot going on at the moment. I know it's not something I need to devote an inordinate amount of time to but yea when I bought it they said just put it next to a wall and it will grow up it. I did some research and realized that was BS and I'd need to spend time procuring it. I'll try the open space idea and if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. Such is life.

I read transplanting is best done in the very early spring. Correct? Sorry to disappoint all the espalier tree fans out here!

Move when leafless. If you are in USDA 6 or warmer you should be able to do this as soon as the top is bare in autumn. If USDA 5 or colder then the end of winter timing would be followed.

Espalier trees are just a type of pollard tree, so they can definitely be planted by themselves and can support themselves. But, you have to do a lot pruning to keep them as pollards. For flowering fruit trees, you want all the main stems to run parallel to the ground and you have to cut off all the vertical flowering branches in the fall after picking the fruit. Whether or not you have to support depends on how heavy and long the stems are.

But, either way, if you want to avoid a lot of work, this isn't a good tree choice.

Just to be clear, in NO way is an espaliered tree a type of pollarding! Read up on the methods and purpose of pollarding if you have any doubts about this.