The machine cannot spin if it doesn't drain. The water drains first, then it spins.

The pump is a separate electric motor component that mounts directly to the bottom of ther plastic outer tub. It has no relation to the impeller (agitator?) or RPS.

Failure to drain can be a bad pump. Is the pump running when it should for draining?

Failure to drain can also be 1) a bad diverter valve or 2) a bad motor board that is powering the diverter continuously or 3) both 1 and 2 together.

1) The diverter valve can be physically jammed by a foreign object such that it's obstructed from shifting from recirculate position to drain position. Or the diverter can be electrically bad.

2) The diverter is powered (on) to shift from drain to recirculate, not powered (off) to shift into neutral (drain) mode. The motor board can fail in a way that it powers the diverter continuously, thus it's always in recirculate mode and the machine will never drain (except very briefly if it's left unplugged from power for 10 mins, reconnected to power and VERY quickly turned on and set to spin ... it'll drain for a minute or so until the diverter shifts position at which time the pumped flow changes to recirculation).

3) A bad diverter valve can cause the motor board to go bad, in which case of course both parts must be replaced.

Thank you for the ininformation.

Actually it gives me a 37 everytime. Impeller was not spinning when l replaced it, rps would not backspin when l repaced it. Washer drained, spun and worked perfectly for a time after both fixes. l was able to turn off for a few minutes and get it to drain and spin when l turned it back on.

Fault 37 is "pumped blocked" ... which really means the water level in the tub hasn't gone done for several minutes when the machine should be draining. ANYTHING that causes the water to not drain will trigger Fault 37, doesn't have to mean that the pump isn't running. Thus the situations I described above involving the diverter valve stuck in recirculation mode.

The pump can have bad bad bearings or an electrical fault (high resistance) that causes it to run hot, trip-off on thermal overheat protection, then work again briefly after cooling enough to reset the thermal protector. Is there evidence of leaking at the pump, such as rusting on it or a trail of mineral deposits?

What part are you referencing as "impeller?"

Drain pump