Test your samples first and you may need a prep for the wood before you apply the stain. Why isn't this being accomplished inside a woodworker's shop? On-site staining and finishing can really be a problem with control of the space.

@Verbo Thanks. I've heard that about dye and maple but am unfamiliar with these processes and the carpenter seems to be most comfortable with stain.

@BeverlyFLADeziner Thanks for your response. Sorry for the confusion. Our home is under construction. We're not doing the work ourselves and I trust the professionals doing it are taking into account a controlled environment and proper prep. Trying not to step on their toes, but also trying to stay informed so that we're making decisions that we'll be happy with long-term.

IMO you buy maple that has been finished in the factory if you want a stain at all. I think just do a clear coat in as good a non yellowing material as possible . Maple does not take stain nicely . I have had lots of experience with Italian case goods that are dyed in awesome colors but not cheaps and mostly birdseye maple. Why are you stainoing this really nice wood that is already blond? All woods change color over time BTW

@Patricia Colwell Consulting thanks for your response. That's a good question. We don't necessarily want to stain it. We just told him we wanted a light natural blonde color without yellow/orange tones and showed him some photos, and that's what he came up with. I had mentioned that I'd heard of mixing a little white paint to cut the yellow. The first sample was on poplar and I was happy with that. It had very little color, slightly pink undertone which I don't mind at all. When I inquired about seeing it on maple since that's the wood being used, the same formula looked like it had been painted with pink paint, not naturally colored. So he adjusted and it looks closer to the poplar sample now, but leaning slightly toward the yellow/orange end of the spectrum. Either way, I'm fairly pleased with the color on the sample maple board (does look slightly uneven/blotchy, but not sure if that's just on the color sample as I think he was just trying to come up with color at this point) but am concerned if those yellow undertones would become more pronounced over time as the wood ages. I'm ok with some color change and understand it's inevitable, just really want to avoid yellow/orange as much as possible.

Would you recommend upgrading to a higher end water based (Bona, Loba) in order to avoid any oil at all (as in the oil modified Minwax he's using) but not sacrifice durability (as in Minwax water based)? Do the products such as Loba UV protect that I've seen recommended on other posts not really help all that much? That's the impression I got from the carpenter and painter. They basically said that no matter what you use it will amber with time. I suppose with time if the color change is undesirable, it would just be time to refinish. I wondered if having some color mixed in as the current formula does might help mask the change, as opposed to leaving completely natural, but not sure whether that's the case.

Appreciate your help

Poplar takes stain much differently than maple you get himt to show you this on maple like the one you have. and if it looks splotchy on the sample be awre it will look even worse when done on all the cabinets