It's worse in person and it moves alot when we change the lightbulb.

There are tons of different brackets available, I would head to a good lighting store and buy a few options and play around with them.

Hard to give specific advice without seeing what the mounting bracket looks like.

Do you have access to sister in some framing?

What do you mean? Could you explain further?

The canopy holes are lined up properly so I don't think the issue is there.

I'll have my husband take the light off to get a picture of the bracket and junction box.

What is a proud jbox? Typo?

Thank you, everyone!

BRITISH

slightly projecting from a surface

IOW's not flush. Or, is the edge of the junction box hanging below the sheetrock?

The junction box is level with the sheetrock. Our other light hung flush to the ceiling without a gap.

Now that all of the possible variables have been ruled out...either you live with the gap, caulk the gap, add a decorative ring or return it.

I noticed that the light is shown as a pendant in the installation instructions...

And the actual picture of it on Ballard's website shows it installed on a black ceiling...

No way that you could have known this would happen.

Jaime-

Ok...so it looks like the bracket is wide and matches the diameter of the light fixture, correct? In that case, the weight of the fixture may be causing that bracket to flex downward from the weight of the fixture. If that is the case, you could drill a hole toward each of the ends of the bracket so that you could use sheetrock anchors to hold the bracket ends flat against the ceiling. If it's not flexing, but simply poor tolerances, then you would have to drill two new mounting holes into the rim of the fixture in a slightly lower position so that trim is forced to be flush with the ceiling when the mounting screws are inserted. Alternatively, if you didn't want to put two small holes in the rim, then you would have to drill two new holes in the ends of the mounting bracket and re-thread them. If this kind of work is beyond your skill set, then you'll have to use some other approach, like caulk.

If its shifting when you change the bulbs it was not installed properly, . Also you might have imperfections in your ceiling that are not visible to the eye but stop it from laying flush. id have to see the canopy installation with out the light to judge that.

Yes, the bracket is the issue and expands almost the entire length of the light. It bends from the weight of the light. It's a a light gap so it's not that it was installed improperly, it is a poor bracket for that light. It's secure, just not flush.

My husband is capable of drilling and using anchors into the ceiling, but I really hesitate to do that because it's alot of work if we change the light in the future.

I was hoping there is a stronger bracket out there that would accommodate the light. Or even a bendable wooden piece to wrap around the light, hiding the gap.

Yes, by the pictures on Ballard's website I would not have known this would happen. Ballard customer service was ZERO help. These lights were expensive, you would think they would have proper brackets.

Thank you for your help. I'll be back with updates.

Jaime-

If you can get it installed to your satisfaction, how likely is it that you will replace it while you own the home? And if you do replace it, how likely is it that a new fixture won't cover any work you do on the bracket for this light? Repairing two screw anchor holes is no big deal. A couple of hidden screws and anchors sounds pretty simple compared to other proposals such as fabricating additional pieces or caulking the heck out of it....

We are thinking of adding flexible trim to hide the gap (see picture).

If we don't like that, we will probably do the anchors or a ceiling ring.

It's a wide light fixture so I know many light fixtures would not cover where the holes need support.