Our practice for hardwood on concrete slabs is the use of engineered floors--exclusively. Even then, humidity control is important. Proceed with caution.

Thank you for the feedback. Maybe I should have mentioned we will have a 3/4” plywood subfloor and a vapor barrier. We had 4” solid hardwood in our previous home (slab foundation) for years without issues, but I have never had this wide of a plank i was hoping the live sawn would solve any potential stability issues

Wider widths are not more stable--just the opposite. I advise my clients to switch from 3/4" solid hardwood to engineered product for any width exceeding 3"

People who say that solid wood can't be successfully adhered to concrete have never had to remove same. I have; it's nearly impossible. No way water is migrating through the concrete and into theadhesive.

Unlimited moisture protection. Specifically manufactured for solid hardwood floors over concrete substrate.

You would need to a double coat of polyurethane or epoxy moisture barrier. Then do a full spread moisture retarding adhesive with a nail assist. You will be protected from the top of the plywood. But, How do you plan to protect underneath the plywood? Also, what type of sheathing are you installing?

If, you have the option to use engineered, use engineered.

Thank you for all the information. The installer says there will be a 6 mil poly plastic, 15 lb felt paper, and 5/8” plywood subfloor. From what I have read, the live sawn white oak is more stable due to 75% of the plank being rift and quartered. That is the only reason I am considering a 7” plank.

It might be more stable than plain-sawn 7" wide white oak, but it's not more stable than narrower widths of the same material.

Incorrect process and incorrect expectations combine to create a big expensive regret. If you want wood flooring on a slab, it needs to be engineered. Period.