Many, many of us have DIY'd floors with Bona products. One of their benefits is that most of the finishing products are minimally toxic and quite user-friendly to apply. No reason for special training required to use them. Practice and basic skills don't hurt though!

Red Out is a peroxide-based wood bleach, and as such needs a few more precautions than the finishes. Be sure you've read the SDS and have appropriate PPE. You don't want to splash it in your eyes! I haven't used it specifically, but have often used other similar wood bleaches. They are typically pretty easy to use, self-limited in their action. Lap marks aren't a probblem in general. They will raise the grain, so require sanding afterwards.

There are three pertty extensive instructional videos on how to use it on the Bona web site.

This is bona red out with bona naturals sealer and matte topcoat on red oak floors. Home was built in the 1800's.

It must be the lighting. it neutralized the pink/red in the original wood so much so that it matches the new white oak in adjacent room. In the picture the last room is new white oak.

those are some long boards in the first room! wicked.

@Jay S - would you mind posting more photos of your floors? Also, do you have any with just natural light vs. added light as in the photo above? Thanks!

We used Bona Red Out on our red oak floors and the product did remove the red tint from the floors, but when the contractor stained them with natural stain they turned an golden oak color with dark highlights, that are very pronounced. It brought out the darker tones - Not what we were going for, we regret using this product.

@cwayment - I’m sorry that you‘re disappointed with how your floors turned out - they look really nice in the photo. What “natural” stain was used?

Oh no sorry to read. Was the natural oil based or water?

water based DuraSeal, the color is #110 neutral

I have a floor that is a mixture of red and white oak (and maybe some other random wood thrown in). I wasn't happy to discover this after sanding the medium brown stain off the floor. Has anyone used Red Out on WHITE oak? Wondering what would happen if i used it on this mixed wood floor. Thanks.

@Nancy Schmelter - do you have some photos of your finished floor? Would love to see it!

Unfortunately it hasn't been done yet, for a variety of reasons. :(

I finally finished mine! I haven't moved back into my old/new house yet, but here are the pics. The Bona Red Out was great!

@Nancy Schmelter, can I ask what color paint you used on your walls? It looks great!

Sherwin Williams Modern Gray SW7632

@Nancy Schmelter, can you list the steps and finish products you used after the Red Out? The floor tone looks much closer to flat cut European Oak.

@dan1888, Here is the process:

#1: Applied Red Out Step 1

#2: Applied Red Out Step 2

#3: Applied Stain - we used Minwax Weathered Oak

#4: Applied 2 coats of Bona HD Traffic

Our original floors were Red Oak. See thread below with pictures before and after each step. Let me know if you can't see/find them and I will send to you.

Hope some of you can help as we are torned. We want to resurface our red oak floor to have the white oak look. Reading through the 2 forum on houzz. some people complained about the pinkish tone from just using NordicSeal.

2 contrators suggested using 2x redout applications. But one contractor said he among with many folks had bad result with Redout and suggested against it.

Now we are torn. Any suggestions? I just havent seen too many reviews on redout online.

We had a Bona certified company do our red oak floors with Red Out, white stain and natural seal and it looks perfect.

Thank you Nilangely. Your floor looks amazing. This is exactly what we are looking for.

Some more pictures before and after using Red Out.

@Nilangely Arzon can you tell me what the name of the white stain is and who makes it? Your floors are beautiful.

I have another success story with bona red out. I have red oak floors and wanted to get a warmer look. My flooring guy sanded then did the two step process and then did a coat of Bona NaturalSeal which has a slight white tint and then bona Mega one. When the construction and eveyrthing is done he will come back and do a final coat of bona traffic. No stain.

@Nancy Schmelter in regards to this post of yours, can you please send me before and after? I can't find.., Here is the process:

#1: Applied Red Out Step 1

#2: Applied Red Out Step 2

#3: Applied Stain - we used Minwax Weathered Oak

#4: Applied 2 coats of Bona HD Traffic

Our original floors were Red Oak. See thread below with pictures before and after each step. Let me know if you can't see/find them and I will send to you.

@Nilangely Arzon I love the looks of your floors - we are having our red oak refinished soon and the color you achieved is our goal. Do you know all of the exact products used?

Has anyone done this on Brazilian Cherry Wood flooring? Contemplating doing mine but haven’t seen any use cases

Jen M, we use Duraseal Country White stain, Bona Classic seal and two coats of Bona traffic HD.

Forgot to mention, Bona Red Out first, then the stains and seals mentioned above.

Thank you - I was also interested…love your floors. Did you do the same process for your stair handrail and newel posts?

Anyone use bona red out with Nordic seal?

@Pretty Shorebird we used one coat of red out and 2 coats nordic seal on our red oak floors. This is the result- we love it! The redout does bring out some of the darker grains in the wood though, so if you have a lot of dark grain running through just keep that in mind!

@kbailey1961 I love the look of your floors! I've also been looking for a way to neutralize the red in my oak flooring while retaining some natural warmth. Do you mind explaining why you chose to finish with both Bona NaturalSeal and Bona MegaOne? Thanks!

Very happy with the result of Bona Red Out on my red oak floors. It’s a very natural look and beats trying to lighten with something like Country White (which I’ve tried at another residence). Bona Red Out does—as advertised—prevent pink hues. We used the following process:

Bona Red Out (2-step process)
One coat Bona NaturalSeal
One coat Bona Traffic HD

@atalio that looks great! Would you be able to share any more photos?

Sure thing. A couple more…

@atalio wow! Thanks for sharing. Do you have any before shots as well?

On the above red oak flooring we used:
-Bona Red Out (two step)
-One coat Bona NaturalSeal
-One coat Bona Traffic HD

Here’s another residence where we used a different recipe (this was white oak flooring and didn’t require Red Out):
-One coat DuraSeal Country White stain
-One coat Bona NaturalSeal
-Two coats Bona Traffic HD

This white oak flooring looks a little glazed over in white (in certain types of light). Still nice but just slightly less natural looking.

I believe I used a satin finish on both floors.

HU, I don’t have a good neutral light before shot, but the flooring was much more yellow in tone. It had a 20+ year old UV yellowed water based finish (no stain applied) over mostly quarter sawn red oak. Before shot, in any case…

@atalio did it have much pink/red tones in it before the red out?

@HU-276257249 no pink tones with the water based finish I had on previously, as I didn't try to lighten the wood with that original finish. The floor would have had pink/red tones had I used the DuraSeal Country White on it. I know this because I used the Country White recipe in one of my rooms that had Red Oak floors, and it did end up looking pink to some degree. You really don't get any of that artificial looking pink color if you use Red Out (followed by NaturalSeal and Traffic HD).

@atalio What color are the walls and trim in your new place?

Has anyone ever tried Red Out on yellow pine? just curious

It WORKS! First 2 pics are before and the rest are after. We have southern red oak #2 2" from 1979 and it was full of strongly pink boards and just overall had a lot of pink "tinge". We did let's call it 1 and a half coats of Red Out. The first coat we let A dry overnight (last night) before B but it's best if A is damp. It was looking good as B dried but at this point I wanted to go for it so we repeated the whole process today. My contractor put ample A and B this time where the first time it was the bare minimum. It is nearly dry after 8 hours. Wow what a difference, looks a lot closer to white oak! We are likely going to finish with 1x Naturaseal and 2x Traffic satin or matte.